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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 318

post #4756 of 11388
Thread Starter 
I have never seen anything like the S&G winter chambray anywhere else. The voiles, however, are a bit different than other voiles but not radically so.
post #4757 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The guys at Geneva say that voile and chambray are the same thing.

I always assumed that was a function of their not having access to a proper (not voile) chambray.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

How does the SG chambray/voile compare to fabrics by Thomas Mason/Alumo/Grandi & Rubinelli, Riva, Testa and the more common shirtings?
A clearer benchmark would allow one to more easily make some assessment of quality. Was thinking of buying the SG voile and chambray, but I'm a little concerned now.
Worth the $?

You obviously know my opinion.

In terms of other options, Thomas Mason has (or at least used to have) a blue voile which is fantastic. Light but not really see-through and a great color / finish.
post #4758 of 11388
Compared to the TM 140s and the 200-count Alumos, the SG voiles are much less substantial, but have a softer hand. Even with the really high thread count, the Alumos have a hard-feeling hand to them. I don't know how to describe it other than it's the tactile equivalent of a hard shine. Very smooth, but a little off-putting in its glossiness. The TM is halfway between the Alumos and the SGs. For me, I won't be getting any more Alumo shirts in the future, and it will mainly be TM 140s for the normal stuff.

I don't think the SG chambrays are comparable to anything else. They are pretty unique in their hand.
post #4759 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

I don't think the SG chambrays are comparable to anything else. They are pretty unique in their hand.

I agree that the SG chambrays are not comparable to any other cloth I have seen. But I think their uniqueness is in the mottled color and texture rather than the hand.
post #4760 of 11388
Cantabrigian -- you'd say you washed your chambray pretty much the same way as you do your other shirts, without these problems appearing on the rest, correct?

Thanks AY (and Manton), I know what you mean vis-a-vis the Alumo.

Have heard that the mottling on the SG chambray is one-of-a-kind which piqued my interest.
post #4761 of 11388
I'm uncharacteristically careful with shirts. Washed at home - warm, not hot water / air dry / hand pressed.

Shirts I've worn 50 times only show wear at the edge of the cuffs.
post #4762 of 11388

Fwiw, I've washed my SG chambray shirt well over a dozen times and never had any issues. Love the cloth.

post #4763 of 11388
Hello,

Does anyone know where I can source pique cotton fabric, preferably in heather colors? For example:

post #4764 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Bateman View Post

Hello,
Does anyone know where I can source pique cotton fabric, preferably in heather colors? For example:

I have this from Grandi & Rubinelli
in a purple, like the one shown.
grey
navy
burgundy.
very nice fabric.
post #4765 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The guys at Geneva say that voile and chambray are the same thing.
Whatever the correct terminology, the S&G chambray I got from Will came in two types, one was very light & sheer like voile and the other was dense and heavy and slightly fuzzy. Former definitely for summer, latter only for winter. Not the same thing but both called "chambray."

I guess Mike never learned much about fabric from his relatives. Both Chris of Chris-Arto(who passed many years ago) and Angelo of andros are in the textile business.

a chambray is a weave. there are chambray voiles.... American Sember used to have a beautiful one. I think they still have a few odd shades left.

I posted somewhere two swatches a chambray and a pinpoint and described the difference.

I have never seen the S-G dress shirt chambray. I can not comment on construction or quality.
post #4766 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Send Mr Michael Alden an email, surely he will be very happy to help you out.

can you pm me his contact details / email?
post #4767 of 11388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

I have this from Grandi & Rubinelli
in a purple, like the one shown.
grey
navy
burgundy.
very nice fabric.

Excellent! I PM'd you.
post #4768 of 11388
Trying to decide on my next suit from Frank. Have five thus far:

- grey woolen flannel 14oz (harrisons)
- mid grey fresco 10/11oz (minnis)
- navy birdseye 11/12oz (harrisons premier cru)
- RAF plain blue 9/10oz (lesser)
- navy herringbone 13oz (lesser)

I am thinking about doing a blue linen and a khaki cotton suit for the summer but would like to get in one more before then. Probably something sub 11oz that is more office appropriate than the linen and the khaki cotton. Any thoughts? Was flirting with a POW maybe from minnis fresco or lesser tropical. How is the lesser tropical book? Any others worth thumbing through?
post #4769 of 11388

Axel,

 

I think you need a mid-grey pick-and-pick - it'll look quite different than they grey fresco you have.

 

If you'd like something patterned, go with a POW in a darker shade of grey. Save the linen / contton suits for your 10th, or even 15th, suit.

 

ET

post #4770 of 11388
Thread Starter 
Since I don't like birdseye, don't get the birdseye.

Personally, I wear cotton and linen to the office in summer.
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