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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 317

post #4741 of 11421
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Edited by tchoy - 1/4/13 at 12:35pm
post #4742 of 11421
Send Mr Michael Alden an email, surely he will be very happy to help you out.
post #4743 of 11421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
and which one is $15 a shirt length

Some ever-so-slightly better (devil.gif) photos of the two chambrays Carl mentioned above.



Simonnot Godard chambray
I have nothing good to say about this stuff - nothing. It shrinks like crazy, pills easily and is rougher than oxford cloth with absolutely none of the charm. It's at once scratchy and insubstantial.

Plus it's pretty expensive.

So yea... I'd say skip that one.





It's been worn maybe a dozen times and...




The CEGO special
I really like this stuff. The color is a nice grey-blue warp with a white weft. It's a little slubby but not overly so. It has some body but is smooth. I opted to make it up more in a more dressy style - the thought being that I could wear it with khakis to work on a Friday or under a blazer, maybe with a summer suit to relax the suit a bit.





Subtle slubby goodness...


IMO, this sort of thing is where CEGO shines. They aren't meaningfully cheaper when it comes to good cloth from a book (e.g. Thomas Mason) and, as far as a I know, don't have access to the really good stuff (e.g.Alumo, Sic Tess) but they have some odd pieces that are very cool and at very attractive prices.

I'd highly recommend jumping on this if Carl has any left. I got two made up the exact same way and am considering getting a third.


(I'm not affiliated with CEGO in any way other than occasionally buying some shirts at full price.)
post #4744 of 11421
While I'm in the neighborhood...

Simonnot Godard voile
I believe this is often refered to as chambray and that Will took to calling it 'new chambray' or something like that but it's most certainly a voile.

Obviously not made up yet but this fabric seems more interesting. It's a good color. Some surface interest but a nice finish on it. It's a voile but not overly thin / transparent.

Will be interesting to see if it performs better than the chambray.





post #4745 of 11421
The cambridge summer pinpoint that I have from Acorn is an amazing summer fabric. It is kind of like fresco cotton. It is, unfortunately expensive, however.
post #4746 of 11421
I like the color and mottling of the SG chambray. In my experience, the cloth is stretching rather than shrinking. It is unfortunate that the cloth lacks body. I've not yet noticed the pilling.
post #4747 of 11421
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The cambridge summer pinpoint that I have from Acorn is an amazing summer fabric. It is kind of like fresco cotton. It is, unfortunately expensive, however.
I see it's in the narrower width. Do you get 4m per shirt?
post #4748 of 11421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

While I'm in the neighborhood...
Simonnot Godard voile
I believe this is often refered to as chambray and that Will took to calling it 'new chambray' or something like that but it's most certainly a voile.
Obviously not made up yet but this fabric seems more interesting. It's a good color. Some surface interest but a nice finish on it. It's a voile but not overly thin / transparent.
Will be interesting to see if it performs better than the chambray.



It is not a chambray weave. not sure what to call it but this is more of an air weave.
post #4749 of 11421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

While I'm in the neighborhood...
Simonnot Godard voile
I believe this is often refered to as chambray and that Will took to calling it 'new chambray' or something like that but it's most certainly a voile.
Obviously not made up yet but this fabric seems more interesting. It's a good color. Some surface interest but a nice finish on it. It's a voile but not overly thin / transparent.
Will be interesting to see if it performs better than the chambray. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I just got my SG chambrays but have had shirts made from the SG voile for a while now. Relative to your experience with the chambray, they should do much better. The weave is a bit loose/fragile, so be careful not to use a collar stay that has too sharp of a point.

My initial impression of the chambray is very positive, but I'm curious how they will hold up over a dozen or more wearings now. My shirts have been washed at home with as little detergent as possible, and hand-ironed damp out of the (front-loading) washer.
post #4750 of 11421
The new SF background is a nailhead
post #4751 of 11421
Hmmm, looks like a twill on my computer...
post #4752 of 11421
Fascinating... It's a twill at zoom 100% and a nailhead at 90% on my Chrome browser... foo.gif
post #4753 of 11421
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

It is not a chambray weave. not sure what to call it but this is more of an air weave.

Someone suggested calling it voile.
post #4754 of 11421
Thread Starter 
The guys at Geneva say that voile and chambray are the same thing.

Whatever the correct terminology, the S&G chambray I got from Will came in two types, one was very light & sheer like voile and the other was dense and heavy and slightly fuzzy. Former definitely for summer, latter only for winter. Not the same thing but both called "chambray."
post #4755 of 11421
How does the SG chambray/voile compare to fabrics by Thomas Mason/Alumo/Grandi & Rubinelli, Riva, Testa and the more common shirtings?

A clearer benchmark would allow one to more easily make some assessment of quality. Was thinking of buying the SG voile and chambray, but I'm a little concerned now.

Worth the $?
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