Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 313

and It's been said you are never wrong!

Is this in Italy, or does Panico travel? Was there a time that Mina used him at NsM?

 

He may travel to Rome, but I'm certain he doesn't travel to the U.S.

 

Mina used Volpe, not Panico.

According to T4Phage in the NSM thread, she initially repped Panico in the states, then moved to Volpe.

For those who used Volpe, Panico and NSM, what are the major differences among the three? I assume Mina used to put her own twist on all garments?

 

Yes, but that was independent of the NSM operation - NSM initially had its garments made by Volpe.

I like the look of his lapels-- NsM's tend to be too high and wide to be really classic. Although perhaps that could be negotiated in a repeat order. Mina is uncommonly eager to please even her American clients who don't understand Naples.

I don't think NsM's lapels are really that wide. Def not approaching Nutter proportions. But if you want them skinnier you can def ask for that. As for gorge height, Mina double checks height with me on pretty much every commission.

I was under the same impression too until I received my finished coats, she made my lapels 9 cm which is basically 3.5" whereas I wanted closer to 4". She did ask about height of lapel notch, I will go for 9.5 cm lapel width and slightly lower notch on future stuff.

Good to know. It appears that their default setting for notches is about an inch above the collarbone, while the jackets that look best to me have it sit right on the collarbone.

Also, has anyone been able to get them to line a jacket completely? Their partial-lining may be great for summer sport coats, but it makes flannels and tweed stick to your shirt in weird ways.

Also think that NSM cuts a different lapel angle, if you know what I mean, that could make the lapels look higher. I actually like the lapel angle of Panico's stuff, it looks much much better.

Yes, some of mine are lined since I asked for it. They don't attach the lining at the bottom hem because they feel that it always ends up sagging and killing the line of the back hem with wear - and they're probably right on that.

 

Just ask her to line the jacket (or shorten the gorge, narrow the lapels etc.) You make it sound like she's intransigent, which has never been my experience.

 

At my request, most of my NSM coats are completely lined, have a lower buttoning point / narrower lapels on DBs than her default style.