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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 304

post #4546 of 12510
Hi Guys,

I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.

I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.

I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.
post #4547 of 12510
Not saying this is a bad idea by any means but why not go for actual jeans?
post #4548 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Hi Guys,
I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.
I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.

 

Cacciopolli Napoli has a selection called "Winter Cottons" which I think would work well for this.

post #4549 of 12510
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Hi Guys,
I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.
I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.
I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.
drill
post #4550 of 12510
Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

I kind of have to need to make fabric decisions by Christmas so Doif anything with Naples might be tricky.

Who makes good quality heavy drill these days?
post #4551 of 12510
Thread Starter 
Drapers has good drill and it's everywhere. H&S also good
post #4552 of 12510

Moleskin would be a good option as well, albeit a bit heavy. Though, I do think tailored pants in such a style would look a little weird.

 

Take a look at Grown & Sewn's KAX pants -  a denim / khaki hybrid. Cut higher and not that slim.

post #4553 of 12510
It does seem like a bit of a waste to bespeak such a casual pant. Have you looked at Cordings? Wide variety of moleskins, cords even jeans. Rise is very high but leg is pretty pegged - tapers to the bottom. I think it's a pretty flattering cut on me and I have the same rise issue with most jeans.
post #4554 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Cacciopolli Napoli has a selection called "Winter Cottons" which I think would work well for this.

+1, nice stuff in that book
post #4555 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

Levi's meatpacking district will custom make jeans however you want them, and some of the LVC from earlier years are both quite high-waisted and full through the leg.
post #4556 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

I'm not sure if they come in various shades of brown, but you can look into Levis Vintage Clothing's 1947 501 cut, and others like it (3Sixteen just came out with a somewhat similar cut).

Though, I think these are two completely different projects - a pair of jeans with a slightly higher rise and fuller cut, and then casual cotton drill pants made with jean pockets.
post #4557 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

Levi's meatpacking district will custom make jeans however you want them, and some of the LVC from earlier years are both quite high-waisted and full through the leg.
Really? Any idea what that costs?
post #4558 of 12510
It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.
post #4559 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.
Ah, okay, thanks. I'm not a jeans freak, so I'll stick with RTW. lol8[1].gif
post #4560 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.

 

Still cheaper than 3x1's "bespoke" denim that starts at $1,200!!

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