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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 302

post #4516 of 6562
12/10/12 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Looks like it comes in a nice selection of colors.
This one could make a cool, though somewhat different, raincoat--

I wonder if they sell retail to the public.
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post #4517 of 6562
12/10/12 at 1:03pm
But yea...

I still can't see a reason to bespokify a trenchcoat.
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post #4518 of 6562
12/10/12 at 1:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post


Barbour, Lost World and Orvis also have sold items made out of ventile. Ebay and ebay uk usually list a few ventile pieces.

Yes, but I was wondering if I could buy the cloth direct from the website and provide it to my tailor.

 

The Cinnamon is a bit aggressive for my taste - the Stone looks quite nice.

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post #4519 of 6562
12/10/12 at 1:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Interesting. Did you buy direct from their website? If so, what weight / color?
It was NOS . . .from my Invertere museum
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post #4520 of 6562
12/10/12 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Yes, but I was wondering if I could buy the cloth direct from the website and provide it to my tailor.

The Cinnamon is a bit aggressive for my taste - the Stone looks quite nice.

I believe you can buy directly from them; they have a contact form on the website. In the U.S., Wiggy's sells Ventile directly but he has a limited selection of colours. I have purchased from him before. Just call him and he usually answers the phone.

http://www.wiggys.com
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post #4521 of 6562
12/10/12 at 2:06pm

^ Thanks

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post #4522 of 6562
12/10/12 at 2:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Interesting. Did you buy direct from their website? If so, what weight / color?

The L 24 is the typical weight that most RTW garments are made from (single Ventile). I have an older Maharishi - yes Maharishi - shooting jacket in L19 and I had a parka made in it too and much prefer it over the L 24. It is a bit heavier and more bombproof but still would be suitable for a trench or mac. Problem is L 19 has fewer colours available so I don't know if the stone or cinnamon is available in it.
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post #4523 of 6562
12/10/12 at 2:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post

Grenfell cloth also served much the same purpose as ventile.


Unless I'm mistaken, it is also no longer available.
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post #4524 of 6562
12/10/12 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

Unless I'm mistaken, it is also no longer available.

Probably right. The company has been out of businees for a few years.
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post #4525 of 6562
12/10/12 at 3:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsugsu View Post


The L 24 is the typical weight that most RTW garments are made from (single Ventile). I have an older Maharishi - yes Maharishi - shooting jacket in L19 and I had a parka made in it too and much prefer it over the L 24. It is a bit heavier and more bombproof but still would be suitable for a trench or mac. Problem is L 19 has fewer colours available so I don't know if the stone or cinnamon is available in it.

 

Thanks - very helpful.

 

Doesn't The Armoury sell Grenfell trenchoats?

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post #4526 of 6562
12/10/12 at 4:06pm

I am watching this thread closely as I was considering the same raincoat question and was looking at Ventile. The olivey-green shades are also excellent. If you are a hard size to fit, you know the impossibility of finding a good raincoat RTW. Overkill or not, this is what bespoke is there for. I will say that some of the Italian silk raincoats tend to be easier to fit and also wear like a dream.


Re: ventile, the special instructions regarding stitching seem pretty crazy though, but not impossible.

 

Someone please chime in if you find a source for Ventile swatches. It looks great on paper, but I hope it's not too heavy-duty canvaslike. I have bad memories of armor-like bonded Mackintosh coats. The L24 looks good.

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post #4527 of 6562
12/10/12 at 4:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

The only time I've seen one done bespoke was in Corvato's shop. He said he took a regular cotton drill and Scotchguarded it.
I asked how waterproof it was and he just shrugged his shoulders.
Maybe the Loro Piana storm system farbics? Though I've never seen those in a book, only made up as RTW coats.
Given that they usually have raglan sleeves, I'm not sure a trench coat is the sort of thing that really lends itself to bespoke. Certainly not at a price similar to that of a canvassed coat with set in shoulders.
seen waterproof fabrics at tip top.
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post #4528 of 6562
12/12/12 at 12:37am
Quick question: I'm going to bespeak my wedding suit (stroller), and I had been looking at Dugdale's new fine worsted and Lesser tropical. Does anyone have experience with both and how do they compare?
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post #4529 of 6562
12/12/12 at 3:11am
Honestly, I think the NFW performs very well. Dry and matte, and a tad heavier than the Lesser. Lesser has the prestige but in terms of performance, the NFW is not inferior.
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post #4530 of 6562
12/12/12 at 3:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Honestly, I think the NFW performs very well. Dry and matte, and a tad heavier than the Lesser. Lesser has the prestige but in terms of performance, the NFW is not inferior.

 

I have suits in both (NFW, old Lesser/new Lesser) and in terms of performance, Lesser's have an edge. But I agree, NFW is not that inferior

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