Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

post #4396 of 6408

11/24/12 at 6:41pm

DLJr

Posts: 128
Joined: 8/2011
Location: Not NYC
Select All Posts By This User

Frank had told me the same thing when I was in the shop, but I was curious as I've seen it both ways. I was picture browsing and missed the conversation, thanks for the clarification.

Reply

post #4397 of 6408

11/24/12 at 8:15pm

Slickman

Posts: 828
Joined: 7/2009
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by poorsod

I made the coat with the apex pointing down for these reasons:
1) Frank felt a nap to the cloth and thought that the intended direction was for the apex to point down.
2) I contacted the weaver and he said that it was indeed woven with the apex pointed down so to better resemble barleycorn. The weaver also said that the coat could be made in either direction.
3) Manton thought the correct direction was for the apex to point down.

For whatever reason I had the idea that the "correct" direction was facing up, but at the end of the day its a beautiful coat and I don't think it makes that much of a difference either way, wear it in good health

Reply

post #4398 of 6408

11/24/12 at 9:50pm

DLJr

Posts: 128
Joined: 8/2011
Location: Not NYC
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

For whatever reason I had the idea that the "correct" direction was facing up, but at the end of the day its a beautiful coat and I don't think it makes that much of a difference either way, wear it in good health

yeah that was my assumption before seeing that coat at Ercoles. It looked great so it made me curious. I wasn't sure if there was a "correct" answer or not, but either way I'm a fan and will likely be putting in an order soon.

Reply

post #4399 of 6408

11/25/12 at 9:41am

sprout2

Posts: 281
Joined: 4/2012
Select All Posts By This User

You have to think about it the way barley or wheat stalks would grow. Though you might assume they peak and have an apex, if those triangles stacked on one another, it would produce an obelisk-shaped grain of wheat, which doesn't make sense. With the inverted triangle or V-shape, the notches fit into one another and the "stalk" fans slightly upward, with the widest point at its base. The tip of the wheat does terminate in an apex, but if you look at the rest of the segments beneath it, they are two to the side, one below (i.e. a V), repeated downward.

Reply

post #4400 of 6408

11/25/12 at 12:23pm

~ B ~

Posts: 215
Joined: 12/2008
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by tim_horton

Do you have their E-mail address handy? I can't find it online but if they allow individual orders I'd be very interested.

I can arrange a Smiths order on your behalf. Might be able to get you a small discount.

Reply

post #4401 of 6408

11/25/12 at 12:27pm

Slewfoot

Posts: 4,122
Joined: 7/2008
Location: New York
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by sprout2

You have to think about it the way barley or wheat stalks would grow. Though you might assume they peak and have an apex, if those triangles stacked on one another, it would produce an obelisk-shaped grain of wheat, which doesn't make sense. With the inverted triangle or V-shape, the notches fit into one another and the "stalk" fans slightly upward, with the widest point at its base. The tip of the wheat does terminate in an apex, but if you look at the rest of the segments beneath it, they are two to the side, one below (i.e. a V), repeated downward.

That's some next level shit. I like it.

Reply

post #4402 of 6408

11/25/12 at 12:34pm

bboysdontcryy

Posts: 1,129
Joined: 2/2010
Location: London
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by sprout2

You have to think about it the way barley or wheat stalks would grow. Though you might assume they peak and have an apex, if those triangles stacked on one another, it would produce an obelisk-shaped grain of wheat, which doesn't make sense. With the inverted triangle or V-shape, the notches fit into one another and the "stalk" fans slightly upward, with the widest point at its base. The tip of the wheat does terminate in an apex, but if you look at the rest of the segments beneath it, they are two to the side, one below (i.e. a V), repeated downward.

Sprout would know a lot about barley and wheat.

Reply

post #4403 of 6408

11/25/12 at 2:37pm

add911_11

Posts: 2,238
Joined: 6/2010
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

I can arrange a Smiths order on your behalf. Might be able to get you a small discount.

Reply

post #4404 of 6408

11/25/12 at 2:43pm

bboysdontcryy

Posts: 1,129
Joined: 2/2010
Location: London
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~ B ~

I can arrange a Smiths order on your behalf. Might be able to get you a small discount.

Keen on this!

Reply

post #4405 of 6408

11/25/12 at 3:14pm

~ B ~

Posts: 215
Joined: 12/2008
Select All Posts By This User

Likewise for any cloth from Minnis/Hardy/Josiah France and WBill.

And I promise not to charge 100 GBP/m for the privilege of a "limited edition" cloth (considering price per m of a 65m length cloth commission would be 20-30 GBP /m) !

Reply

post #4406 of 6408

11/25/12 at 5:02pm

lysandar

Posts: 92
Joined: 3/2012
Select All Posts By This User

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Reply

post #4407 of 6408

11/25/12 at 9:42pm

sprout2

Posts: 281
Joined: 4/2012
Select All Posts By This User

Does Ercole's have a house style? Sorry if this is a hijack but since we were on the subject w/r/t to poorsod's barleycorn number...

Quote:

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy

Sprout would know a lot about barley and wheat.

Reply

post #4408 of 6408

11/26/12 at 12:32am

bboysdontcryy

Posts: 1,129
Joined: 2/2010
Location: London
Select All Posts By This User

Actually, I think this whole discussion about 'house-style' is somewhat ironic, because ideally, a tailor should be able to have a coat fit on you properly without looking to some house-style if it doesn't work for the customer. Some have said that Ercoles tend to cut a more Italian silhouette, but others have had English-looking coats from him. Best bet would be to call him, or see pictures of his suits in the wild.

Reply

post #4409 of 6408

11/26/12 at 2:52am