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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 285

post #4261 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbromer View Post

Gordon Yao has always been very nice about accepting cloth from me. Although, they've expanded their cloth selection significantly in the past year or two, making sourcing my own stuff much less of an issue.

GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.
post #4262 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.

Is it realistic? They manage to get it right on their first try?
post #4263 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Is it realistic? They manage to get it right on their first try?

It's probably a system that works for some, and doesn't for others. I'm a particularly tough fit, and can't imagine working w/o fittings.
post #4264 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Is it realistic? They manage to get it right on their first try?

No way, even if they can they can't charge their bespoke usual price.
post #4265 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.

I've been pleased with the fit from Yao without fittings. I've sent things back for some minor tweaks that I noticed on my own. I've brought completed coats to subsequent visits, and he has noted adjustments that should be made.

I suppose the fit could be marginally better with fittings, but the lack of fittings don't bother me. Plus, I enjoy the benefit of my clothes being completed more quickly. I understand that this method is not for everybody, but I think it's a method that Yao does a very good job at.
post #4266 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.

I visited GY when he was in NY and just didn't like the styling - a very firm, padded shoulder. Honestly it looked like a lot of NY drycleaner "bespoke"

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

That is true, but you don't know how much they'd charge for CMT since they don't do CMT. Hence you can't really add the cost of the fabric to their 'non-existent' CMT price.
You proposed to eat the cost if anything goes wrong, and they refused to bite. Kind of eliminates that excuse as being the reason for them not accepting CMT doesn't it. Bolsters the point about the earning on cloth,
But hey, that's their business model - they probably have too much business to handle, hence that's their way of 'choosing their clients'.

I can't figure out their effective CMT cost but they can. They pay a cloth bill and know what trimmings cost.

I think someone really made such a big deal about his cloth that they just find it easier to say no to everyone.

I suppose we could promise them X orders if they'll do CMT but business appears to be brisk as it is so I'm not sure they'd want to bother.
post #4267 of 12540
Why so insistent on using Chan? I haven't seen any of their garments but have never seen anything I liked from them. There are plenty other tailors that will use customers cloth.
post #4268 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

I haven't seen any of their garments but have never seen anything I liked from them.

baldy[1].gif
post #4269 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Why so insistent on using Chan? I haven't seen any of their garments but have never seen anything I liked from them. There are plenty other tailors that will use customers cloth.

I totally concurred
post #4270 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

I visited GY when he was in NY and just didn't like the styling - a very firm, padded shoulder. Honestly it looked like a lot of NY drycleaner "bespoke"

I respectfully disagree with your opinion of Yao. I know some people believe that the lack of fittings means its not real bespoke, which you seem to be implying about Yao. You're certainly entitled to your opinion on that matter. As for producing "drycleaner 'bespoke,'" Yao's affiliate thread shows a number of coats, none of which I believe look like they were made by a drycleaner:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234481/gordon-yao-bespoke-tailors-official-affiliate-thread/0_20

You will also find in that thread that, like many other tailors, Yao makes jackets in a variety of styles, including a soft, unpadded shoulder. Here's an example:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234481/gordon-yao-bespoke-tailors-official-affiliate-thread/140_20#post_4900358

Enough about Yao for this thread.
post #4271 of 12540
That looks much better than what I saw.

Number of fittings wasn't what I was criticizing; it was the styling - very generously padded shoulder, firm coat with not much shape. The should on that coat isn't just more to my liking, it's indicative of a higher level of skill than what was on display a few years ago.
post #4272 of 12540
That suit coat with the spalla camicia style shoulders belongs to follow member incontro, I've seen the suit in real life and it has no padding whatsoever and the fit is pretty good. With GY you just have to tell him what you want otherwise it will goes to his default style.

Here is one of mine in London Lounge Tweed that has very minimal padding.

8069507616_fdbc87443a_c.jpg
post #4273 of 12540
tchoy, that jacket makes your hips look wider than your shoulders. Not a very flattering look.
post #4274 of 12540
Yea... that's not the best example. confused.gif
Edited by Cantabrigian - 11/14/12 at 3:24pm
post #4275 of 12540
Oh c'mon guys, that's not bad. A tad boring but not horrible tailoring.
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