Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 283

I've spent the last 5 minutes trying to "get it" but then again I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.


you're a good man

He was to facetiously hide behind the mannequin so as to avoid your wrath, because we all know that when crossed, you shoot fireballs from your eyes and lightening bolts from your ass. You are a very dangerous man to disagree with, Mr. Morel.

I don't think so. I'm using the buttons on the shirt and jacket to control for the angle. So while it's still subjective to some degree, I'd want the top of my breast pocket to line up with the third buttonhole on the shirt. (Different shirts may have differently placed buttonholes, but I think it still applies here.) And I'd want the top of my lower patch pockets to be even with the jacket's lower buttonhole or bit below it. This is illustrated in wmb's blue coat below. Both pics posted side by side for comparison:



This is not to say he should throw away the jacket, just some things to consider for the next order. (My first Chan jacket had the breast pocket a bit high.) Although, the patch pockets could be recut on this one if he wanted. I'd also ask to have the breast pocket moved more inward a bit, so it's tucked under the lapel a bit.

Never thought this before, but it might be wise to always order three patch pockets on a first commission to allow for changes later.

Definitely agree that pockets are high overall- I'm having the side patch pockets re-cut lower. The high gorge is my preference. Good thinking about the third patch pocket!

Does anyone have any experience with the Drapers 'Blazon' book?Its a Super 140.

This is a shot in the dark, but has anyone been to Ercole's lately and seen the bolt of mid-grey sort-of-flannely-sort-of-sharkskiny H. Lesser Carlo Barbera? If so, do you know what it is and what weight it is?

It is nice. Feels around 11-13 oz to me. What does Frank say?

That is what he told me when he showed it to me.

Do you wear a hat? I find that it keeps really warm without making my body hot. Doesn't make sense but it works.

I take it neither of you ordered it? I don't recall what weight he told me, but I liked its hand--I figure it is ok for 3 season wear. Any idea what the fabric is called? Is it a sharkskin? I'm having a suit made from it--just not really sure what the heck it is. Could it be the material that Manton was referring to in the post below?:

No I didn't order it... I wear suits far more than sports coats and he only had 2.5 meters. Even if he had a suit length I would have passed, I have something similar, and I tend to prefer darker suits so my next few commissions will be in that direction. He showed it to me when I asked about heavyweight worsteds (I waslooking for something a bit heavier.) But it looked very, very nice. I'm sure it will make for a great suit.

Its Barbera for Lesser - gorgeous stuff - 13oz.

So WW Chan is on tour... anyone have any navy wool (preferably fresco)? I'd love to take it off your hands.

Grammaton and Tim_Horton, does this look like it? I've seen so many swatches I can't remember what I ordered! See NYR and courty posts below:

Chan does not accept fabric from its clients. If you want fresco, Chan will have it.