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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 283

post #4231 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post

Apparently today is the day my humor falls flat.

I've spent the last 5 minutes trying to "get it" but then again I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

If it might please the Morel, I will note that I am wearing one of his creations today.

you're a good man
post #4232 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

I've spent the last 5 minutes trying to "get it" but then again I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.
you're a good man

He was to facetiously hide behind the mannequin so as to avoid your wrath, because we all know that when crossed, you shoot fireballs from your eyes and lightening bolts from your ass. You are a very dangerous man to disagree with, Mr. Morel.
post #4233 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

The apparent placement of the gorge and breast pocket are almost certainly the result of taking the picture from a low angle.
I don't think so. I'm using the buttons on the shirt and jacket to control for the angle. So while it's still subjective to some degree, I'd want the top of my breast pocket to line up with the third buttonhole on the shirt. (Different shirts may have differently placed buttonholes, but I think it still applies here.) And I'd want the top of my lower patch pockets to be even with the jacket's lower buttonhole or bit below it. This is illustrated in wmb's blue coat below. Both pics posted side by side for comparison:

525x525px-LL-0dbea328_vbattach66425.jpg

This is not to say he should throw away the jacket, just some things to consider for the next order. (My first Chan jacket had the breast pocket a bit high.) Although, the patch pockets could be recut on this one if he wanted. I'd also ask to have the breast pocket moved more inward a bit, so it's tucked under the lapel a bit.

Never thought this before, but it might be wise to always order three patch pockets on a first commission to allow for changes later.
post #4234 of 10782
Definitely agree that pockets are high overall- I'm having the side patch pockets re-cut lower. The high gorge is my preference. Good thinking about the third patch pocket!
post #4235 of 10782

Does anyone have any experience with the Drapers 'Blazon' book?Its a Super 140.

post #4236 of 10782
This is a shot in the dark, but has anyone been to Ercole's lately and seen the bolt of mid-grey sort-of-flannely-sort-of-sharkskiny H. Lesser Carlo Barbera? If so, do you know what it is and what weight it is?
post #4237 of 10782
It is nice. Feels around 11-13 oz to me. What does Frank say?
post #4238 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

It is nice. Feels around 11-13 oz to me. What does Frank say?

That is what he told me when he showed it to me.
post #4239 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Winter is so weird. I will be wearing over 1000 grams of cloth walking around, feel cold, yet still be sweating under it all. There is no winning really.

Do you wear a hat? I find that it keeps really warm without making my body hot. Doesn't make sense but it works.
post #4240 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

It is nice. Feels around 11-13 oz to me. What does Frank say?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tim_horton View Post

That is what he told me when he showed it to me.

I take it neither of you ordered it? I don't recall what weight he told me, but I liked its hand--I figure it is ok for 3 season wear. Any idea what the fabric is called? Is it a sharkskin? I'm having a suit made from it--just not really sure what the heck it is. Could it be the material that Manton was referring to in the post below?:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Frank has some killer close-outs. He won't say where he got them and really it does not matter but this is good stuff. Among the highlights are a gorgeous piece of Carlo Barbera for Lesser mid gray saxony sharkskin, fantastic cloth. [snip] There's more, too. Somebody here should get this stuff.
post #4241 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

I take it neither of you ordered it? I don't recall what weight he told me, but I liked its hand--I figure it is ok for 3 season wear. Any idea what the fabric is called? Is it a sharkskin? I'm having a suit made from it--just not really sure what the heck it is. Could it be the material that Manton was referring to in the post below?:

No I didn't order it... I wear suits far more than sports coats and he only had 2.5 meters. Even if he had a suit length I would have passed, I have something similar, and I tend to prefer darker suits so my next few commissions will be in that direction. He showed it to me when I asked about heavyweight worsteds (I waslooking for something a bit heavier.) But it looked very, very nice. I'm sure it will make for a great suit.
post #4242 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

This is a shot in the dark, but has anyone been to Ercole's lately and seen the bolt of mid-grey sort-of-flannely-sort-of-sharkskiny H. Lesser Carlo Barbera? If so, do you know what it is and what weight it is?

Its Barbera for Lesser - gorgeous stuff - 13oz.
post #4243 of 10782
So WW Chan is on tour... anyone have any navy wool (preferably fresco)? I'd love to take it off your hands.
post #4244 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

This is a shot in the dark, but has anyone been to Ercole's lately and seen the bolt of mid-grey sort-of-flannely-sort-of-sharkskiny H. Lesser Carlo Barbera? If so, do you know what it is and what weight it is?

Grammaton and Tim_Horton, does this look like it? I've seen so many swatches I can't remember what I ordered! shog[1].gif See NYR and courty posts below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post

This is on the bottom of my queue:



This is the only shot of it before making, no selvedge shot, but Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket, I'll find it and photo it. IIRC this was a sportcoating that I just had made into a three piece. Like I said, its a staid SC, but an "interesting suit". Its certainly an "Italian cloth" but the Lesser brothers had them make for them. Hence Italian cloth, English firm.




Quote:
Originally Posted by courty View Post


Quote:


(snip)

This is from the same Lesser/Barbera book I am familiar with. Its a nice cloth but I have not seen anything like it in a while. Scabal used to sell something like it - a softer, fuzzier, version of sharkskin - but I think they discontinued it along with their other cloths I liked. Does anybody know if the Silver Gander is still available?
post #4245 of 10782
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

So WW Chan is on tour... anyone have any navy wool (preferably fresco)? I'd love to take it off your hands.

Chan does not accept fabric from its clients. If you want fresco, Chan will have it.
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