He was one of my favorite tailors in the O'Mast video. My Italian friend filled in some of his comments that didn't make the translation. Kindred spirit.
coolal, are those LL linens? How do you like them? Stiff or soft and spongy? I am thinking about brown PoW so feedback would be appreciated.
Forex, yes they are LL linens. Specifically the "Cypress" and "Oakmont". I absolutely love the fabric. It has a bit of body and drapes nicely. It's not exactly spongy, but does border on it. It's very soft though and breathes well. Couldn't be happier.
Me too. Cantabrigian, I'm curious about your comment. For instance, the LL cloths are typically much heavier than the others you mentioned. A heavy fresco seems like a good idea, though I can understand why it wouldn't have broad appeal.
Crispaire is practical - its smoother than the Minnis but still wears quite cool. It's much better for a lightweight work suit IMO since it looks more refined. Though I do prefer the Minnis overall. The Minnis holds a crease better, feels sturdier and has a more interesting texture.
It isn't the weight of Brisa that bothers me - I'll wear the 15/16 oz stuff from Minnis. (As an aside, I can't tell the difference between the very heavy weight H&S / Minnis. At lesser weights, the difference is obvious.)
The Brisa feels soft and almost squishy. The Crispaire has a much nicer hand and the Minnis is nicer still. The Brisa feels insubstantial and like its going to stretch. It can't hold any sort of crease for more than 15 minutes of wear.
The only suit I have from it is an early batch so maybe those problems were corrected but in my experience, it lacks both the charm and practicality of the other cloths.
I have an old Brisa (purchased from Cantabrigian) not yet made up and I just had a fitting in the new POW blue/gray Brisa. The new one definitely seems softer, but with some added grip. It had a very unique feeling as I felt it primarily from the POW weave itself. You could really feel each little nuance in the pattern. Very cool. I really liked it and it seemed like it would wear cooler than I expected.