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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 270

post #4036 of 12540
Now I get it. Thanks!
post #4037 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Can you please elaborate more on the extended shoulders? Trying to understand exactly what it is and how it is achieved.
thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Just feel your shoulder inside the jacket. If it's flush against the top of the sleeve, that's a fitted shoulder. If the top of the coat extends out a hair (a fraction of an inch) past the natural shoulder line, it's extended.
Extended shoulder lines are common on draped coats and also are used to give very narrow shouldered and shallow chested guys an appearance of solidity.

Here's a sample comparison from my closet. Left is a fitted shoulder, right is an extended shoulder. Both fit, but the coats have different silhouettes / styles

whichyoulike.jpg
post #4038 of 12540
Thanks for clarification. I guess what I was trying to understand is at what point the shoulder would be considered too big. Can you, let's say, extend the shoulder by quarter of an inch and still insure that the jacket fits reasonably well?When is shoulder extension too much?
post #4039 of 12540
Paging mafoofan for discussion of divots !
post #4040 of 12540
I thought divots were sleeve pitch? confused.gif
post #4041 of 12540
Those are other kinds of divots.
post #4042 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

At this point, what's the difference between a polo coat and an ulster coat? At the very least it seems like many overcoats could be described as both?

This photo was the profile I used to make a Polo a few years ago. Very broad peaks, framed pockets with flaps, cuffs on sleeves, changed to 3X3 on the buttons, not 4X4. What you guys haven't mentioned is the split sleeve. The sleeve has an overlapped seam that meets with the shoulder seam of the coat.

IIRC the back had a kick pleat rather than a plain vent and don't recall if the belt was loose or sewn down. I think loose. Can't remember what else we did on the back. Overall the coat was very full.

post #4043 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Thanks for clarification. I guess what I was trying to understand is at what point the shoulder would be considered too big. Can you, let's say, extend the shoulder by quarter of an inch and still insure that the jacket fits reasonably well?When is shoulder extension too much?

Need some answers to this as well.
post #4044 of 12540
How wide is too wide is arbitrary. You have to consider the overall proportion of shoulder to chest to waist to hip. Add to the mix your tolerance for styling and how the shoulder width works to balance out your overall proportions. Like Manton said, some benefit from an extended shoulder and others not so much.
post #4045 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I ordered the 520 as a three patch sport coat. Wondering if I should have gone w/ a suit, but I rarely wear suits. Could show it to you when it arrives w/in a few weeks, D.

You'll get a ton of mileage out of it in/around SF. I wear just the jacket more often than as the full suit.

Here it is (from when I first had it made up by Ercole's last year) -
post #4046 of 12540
Can anyone ID this fabric? It seems somewhat similar to a pattern in Hardy's Worsted Alsport, but with a blue stripe instead of red.



post #4047 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I ordered the 520 as a three patch sport coat. Wondering if I should have gone w/ a suit, but I rarely wear suits. Could show it to you when it arrives w/in a few weeks, D.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scruff View Post

You'll get a ton of mileage out of it in/around SF. I wear just the jacket more often than as the full suit.
Here it is (from when I first had it made up by Ercole's last year) - Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Minnis Fresco 0520? inlove.gif
post #4048 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Can anyone ID this fabric? It seems somewhat similar to a pattern in Hardy's Worsted Alsport, but with a blue stripe instead of red.

I have something sort of similar in my basement that I'd like to have made into a jacket eventually, mabe a touch more golden overall, and the check that looks almost black on your picture is green... how true is the colour of that picture? I got it from a wholesaler and the only info that could be provided was that it was 100% wool and Italian, which I don't know is true. I would be interested to know as well.


post #4049 of 12540
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Can anyone ID this fabric? It seems somewhat similar to a pattern in Hardy's Worsted Alsport, but with a blue stripe instead of red.


Who is this coat made by? I think that's a P on the tag, is that Panico?
post #4050 of 12540
It's by Cesare Palermo, the former right hand man of Vincenzo Attolini when they were both at Rubinacci. I have some photos of his workshop, and have been meaning to write an article for StyleForum's blog (actually have a couple article I owe to Fok), but have been too busy lately do a proper piece. The stuff I saw in his workshop, however, was really remarkable. If I were to be able to go to Naples on a more consistent basis, he'd be the first tailor I'd go to.

And no, he doesn't travel, or have a website. I honestly don't even know if he has a telephone.

As for inlandisland's question of whether those colors are true to life, I don't know. It's been too long for me to remember that specific jacket in such detail. I like how the color is in the photo, however, and am considering getting something like it for myself.
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