Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 269

The Canonized Orthodox American version does. But the earlier versions, from which it derived generally did not. The earlier ones typically had a convertible, ulster style collar and a full belt, which made sense given their purpose and origin. Once it became the rage in the U.S., the half belt and DB style peak lapel were established as the standard.

I like them either way, though my "polo" is really cashmere and has slash pockets, an ulster collar, full belt and, alas, no cuffs. But it was a gift from a forumite, so I have no complaints.

I think that Chan fits better.

Gram, thanks for posting that but I can't observe any difference between the three modern photos, aside from cloth.

If it is the angle of lapels like Manton says, wouldn't King Edward's coat be the only polo?

I think you are just seeing the sillhouette that you like better, not the fit.

That's a good point. The Chan definitely hugs the body more so than the Steed so it may appear to fit better at first glance. It is certainly more "fitted" if that makes sense. My general style these days is more relaxed. As you've all probably noticed, I'm much more into blues, grays and atumnal colors than bright ones. The Steed drape style seems to fit this sensibility well. That mixed with very comfortable items make for a good combination.

I really like the snap that the Steed items have in the waist. There's a nice swoop about them that is just right. The word pizazz comes to mind albeit in an understated fashion.

I'll be getting in a DB suit in Lumb's Golden Bale navy blue flannel with red windowpane from Steed in soon and will try and post fit pics to compare against the Chan. Might not be for a little while though.

What is the distinction between fit and silhouette?

The silhouette is the shape, style of cut.

The way I have seen the word "fit" used seems to be pretty broad. To me the word includes the general overall aesthetic and includes "silhouette". The concepts seem inter-related.

Well to me fit are things likethe collar staying on the neck, the line of the shoulder, sleeve pitch, balance. All of that should be the same regardless of style of cut.

Perhaps fit describes the application of the silhouette to the body?

Credit where credit is due I learned it from Manton's book. But it makes sense to me. Certain aspects shouldn't change with the style of cut.

Can you please elaborate more on the extended shoulders? Trying to understand exactly what it is and how it is achieved.
thanks.