Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 258

4 Buttons might be the way to go. As far as peacoat, I've got a decent one I like already, and I think that the cloth will just be too warm (if you can imagine that)...thats how heavy it was.


I was actually using that cut as the model for this bespoke piece, but the fabrics too thick for the fly front, so I think exposed buttons would not jive with the sleekness of the rest of the coat.


The cloth is this super heavy piece made in England in the early 1930s. Real unique, I think its up further in the thread.

I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

Are you going for something a little shorter than the Paul Stuart coat?

I'm looking for a tweed recommendation close to this fabric:



Any recommendations?

Not tweed, but the Dugdale English Classics bunch has a 14oz fuzzy-finish brown houndstooth. Marling and Evans also has a few brown houndstooth patterns in their Lambswool Blend selection.

which chambray fabric is $100 a shirt length
and which one is $15 a shirt length

Hundo on the right

It's easier to guess the cost of the camera than the cost of the cloth from that photo.

G C you are correct. the one on the left reminds me of the stuff i wore in high school from the family's army & Navy surplus store.
bought at the last remaining fabric store on orchard street. might even make one for myself.
we washed and dried it. it feels good.

Photo taken with my cell phone!

Ah, so the one on the right is the one you're making me from the old chambray you had lying around?

you will be much happier with the one on the left

Anyone have any recommendations for a suiting fabric in a birdseye type pattern like GDL's below that breathes very well, but also drapes and holds its shape nicely? Probably around 12oz. Thinking a bright navy hopsack. I'd even be fine with the birdseye pattern being larger scaled.

^ Dugdale Royal Classics (120z.) has a stunning navy birdseye.

Thanks! Is it somewhat like a hopsack in terms of breathability? Or are birdseyes in general similar to hopsacks in that regard? I just want anything too heavy since I'll generally be working in it. And when I say working that's not at a desk, but basically doing wine service and on my feet all the time which gets hot quickly.

I'm afraid not - its a regular worsted, and not a hopsack. I don't believe I have ever seen a hopsack weave that incorporates a birdseye pattern, but perhaps someone else could chime in.

12oz. really isn't that heavy - maybe you could get it half-lined?

Yeah, I'd do half lining regardless most likely. I'll check out the book. You never know until you see it.