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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 228

post #3406 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by lychyrychy View Post

Sorry for bringing an old post, but would this fabric be a Spring or Autumn jacket?

youre probably thinking too much about it if youre torn between spring and autumn.
post #3407 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maccimus View Post

Riviera? I love the color combination, price point is decent, but the tailor I use hates thin fabrics with checks...

Yes it is reviera. I wonder its cheaper due to quality or if it's really on discount.

Also, Is it hard for a tailor to match checks fabric when it's thin? Im pretty new to this bespoke process
post #3408 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by fox81 View Post

youre probably thinking too much about it if youre torn between spring and autumn.

Hah you're right..i've been spending quite some times looking at fabric sites
post #3409 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by lychyrychy View Post

Yes it is reviera. I wonder its cheaper due to quality or if it's really on discount.
Also, Is it hard for a tailor to match checks fabric when it's thin? Im pretty new to this bespoke process
It was 50+ pounds per meter IIRC. And you are right, it is difficult to control the fabric if it is thin.
post #3410 of 9785
I have a minnis flannel 0300 suiting that I would like to sell, pm if there is interest. It is 4 meters.

post #3411 of 9785
I'm in the market for some worsted if anyone has anything to unload. Just started a classified ad:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/310571/looking-for-suiting-fabric
post #3412 of 9785

Lychyrychy

HFW were discontinuing riviera and it was heading out at 17 GB pounds per metre. In my opinion, not the best offering from HFW and they do have a few very respectable horses in the stable and I am not sorry to see it go. They had a suiting which they also discontinued that is going at a discount what is left called crown classic and it makes up beautifully and performs well. 340 g 11 1/2 -12 oz 100's and cashmere.If you decide on spring for you Riviera,get your tailor to use a lightweight canvas and if autumn.. I can't believe I am saying the F word but I would probably Fuse the riviera rather than a canvas front as this would give it some strength and the ability of moisture to travel through the garment that a canvas gives will be less necessary in the autumn so it may benefit from this, bearing in mind the compromise of less shape in the chest with fuse. If I get a vote, I would recommend spring.

Ronald Regan was wearing a HFW clotth called Rangoon when he was shot. I hope you have better luck with your HFW cloth.

Go well

Brendon

post #3413 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renault78law View Post

I'm in the market for some worsted if anyone has anything to unload. Just started a classified ad:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/310571/looking-for-suiting-fabric

PM sent.
post #3414 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

Lychyrychy
HFW were discontinuing riviera and it was heading out at 17 GB pounds per metre. In my opinion, not the best offering from HFW and they do have a few very respectable horses in the stable and I am not sorry to see it go. They had a suiting which they also discontinued that is going at a discount what is left called crown classic and it makes up beautifully and performs well. 340 g 11 1/2 -12 oz 100's and cashmere.If you decide on spring for you Riviera,get your tailor to use a lightweight canvas and if autumn.. I can't believe I am saying the F word but I would probably Fuse the riviera rather than a canvas front as this would give it some strength and the ability of moisture to travel through the garment that a canvas gives will be less necessary in the autumn so it may benefit from this, bearing in mind the compromise of less shape in the chest with fuse. If I get a vote, I would recommend spring.
Ronald Regan was wearing a HFW clotth called Rangoon when he was shot. I hope you have better luck with your HFW cloth.
Go well
Brendon

I'd like to offer a contrary opinion. I have one jacket in Riviera and like it very much. It obviously doesn't have the body of a 16oz Cheviot, but I wear very warm, and the Riviera gets me through the shoulder season very well. The designs, on the whole, were very good as well. In fact,if anyone has a length of it left, I might be very interested.

That said, you may also consider the Glorious 12th from Porter and Harding, which has a couple of beautiful Gun Club checks as well, or the Worsted Alsport from Hardy's. Both are a bit heavier but they are beautiful cloths.
post #3415 of 9785
7739332002_380d847be4.jpg
Heavy navy linen and leftover herringbone tweed.
7739361832_207ea49a74.jpg
Superfine worsted, grey pick & pick (?) with a crimson overcheck.
Eventually the worsted will be made up in a three-piece, the linen I plan on making my own trousers and waistcoat with (when I start sewing again) and may even attempt some sort of jacket?
post #3416 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

Lychyrychy
HFW were discontinuing riviera and it was heading out at 17 GB pounds per metre. In my opinion, not the best offering from HFW and they do have a few very respectable horses in the stable and I am not sorry to see it go. They had a suiting which they also discontinued that is going at a discount what is left called crown classic and it makes up beautifully and performs well. 340 g 11 1/2 -12 oz 100's and cashmere.If you decide on spring for you Riviera,get your tailor to use a lightweight canvas and if autumn.. I can't believe I am saying the F word but I would probably Fuse the riviera rather than a canvas front as this would give it some strength and the ability of moisture to travel through the garment that a canvas gives will be less necessary in the autumn so it may benefit from this, bearing in mind the compromise of less shape in the chest with fuse. If I get a vote, I would recommend spring.
Ronald Regan was wearing a HFW clotth called Rangoon when he was shot. I hope you have better luck with your HFW cloth.
Go well
Brendon

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

I'd like to offer a contrary opinion. I have one jacket in Riviera and like it very much. It obviously doesn't have the body of a 16oz Cheviot, but I wear very warm, and the Riviera gets me through the shoulder season very well. The designs, on the whole, were very good as well. In fact,if anyone has a length of it left, I might be very interested.
That said, you may also consider the Glorious 12th from Porter and Harding, which has a couple of beautiful Gun Club checks as well, or the Worsted Alsport from Hardy's. Both are a bit heavier but they are beautiful cloths.

Thank you both for your insightful knowledge.

Brendon: was the riviera cloth selling at even lower price than 17GB at one point? I must have missed out on that. HFW is selling it at 28GB right now and I thought it's a pretty decent deal. I think my perception of cloth prices is skewed since I'm still trying to gain adequate experience in buying suit/jacket clothes.

RogerC: thanks for introducing me to the Glorious 12th, I will be evermore less productive at work for the next few hours! haha.
post #3417 of 9785
Riviera is decent cloth and would guess I've made 50 jackets in this cloth since it was introduced. There are variations of weaves and textures through the book and I prefer some over others but overall I would use any cloth in the book. Cloth has good body for the 8.5 ounce weight and the colors and patterns were good. It's not a luxe type of cloth, pretty basic but I wouldn't say it is thin and I haven't had problems with it shifting. Of all the jackets we made, never had a complaint and many reordered from the book.

And Brendon, Reagan was wearing a 100% cashmere suit on that occasion, not Rangoon.
post #3418 of 9785

HI Despos 

are you sure about that? You may be right? But I was shown a letter in rhe HFW JJ Minnis showroom in Berwick St London from Ron Regan's PA or tailor, can't remember which ( almost a decade ago) after more cloth but wanting for one of his favourite suits as a surprise to him. If you are dealing direct with them they will be able to confirm this better I am sure. I am in London in September and will ask again if I remember that is if they  have new rooms yet? Last year not. 

As for Riviera, I have not made 50 and I won't be . HFW have some lovely cloths and I prefer others than Riviera. If a client is buying a sports coat then I am more likely to get them in to a 100's on that weight. my reason for comment was on the few occasions I used it I found it shifted a bit. However you get what you pay for and that cut length is at the lower end . So no complaints really. I live in a country where sheep outnumber people 8 to 1( used to be 20 to 1) ,so here's to them.

Go well 

Brendon

post #3419 of 9785
His tailor was a friend of mine and I would visit him 2 or 3 times a year around that time period. On one visit while hanging around his shop he shows me a cashmere suit he is making and said it is the replacement suit for President Reagan. Said President Reagan wanted the same suit remade. That's all I know.

Riviera isn't the best cloth in the world but it's much better than other cloths in that weight range. I think it is easy to tailor, holds a press well and travels well. I have a couple jackets for myself from this book. Wouldn't discourage anyone from wearing this cloth.
post #3420 of 9785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

His tailor was a friend of mine and I would visit him 2 or 3 times a year around that time period. On one visit while hanging around his shop he shows me a cashmere suit he is making and said it is the replacement suit for President Reagan. Said President Reagan wanted the same suit remade. That's all I know.

Mariani of Beverly Hills?

http://books.google.com/books?id=C1kvsToagGEC&pg=PA36&hl=en

The shooting happened in March, so wearing cashmere seems more likely than a tropical wool such as Rangoon.
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