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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 207

post #3091 of 12539
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

I have one (not by Dugdale) 9 oz linen. It wrinkles a lot. I'd go at least 12 oz, if possible. All the colors you list are great for a linen suit.

Agree. Linen under 11oz creases like hell. Part of the charm for some but I like it heavier.
post #3092 of 12539
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I think 13oz is optimal.
Didn't you say you had sweat gland issues... Be careful with the 16oz...

Yeah, I am thinking just for autumn and winter. My new overcoat is 22oz and while it doesn't feel that thick it is dense as all hell.
post #3093 of 12539
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

I have one (not by Dugdale) 9 oz linen. It wrinkles a lot. I'd go at least 12 oz, if possible. All the colors you list are great for a linen suit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTA View Post

Agree. Linen under 11oz creases like hell. Part of the charm for some but I like it heavier.

Thanks for the heads up. I will take that into consideration. I don't mind some creasing but if it'll be extreme, maybe I will avoid it.

I've read this entire thread and have learned a lot. Thanks to all who have participated.
post #3094 of 12539
Anyone from the tobacco fresco buy have any left? Need another 1.5 meters for trousers.
post #3095 of 12539
ignore.
post #3096 of 12539
Does anyone have any sources for 13 oz light yellow or yellowish cream gabardine? Something like:
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2011/04/man-in-style-installment-vi.html

Scabal has 13 oz white/gray creams, light beige, and light tan/almost wheat, but I can't tell from their web photos whether any of their fabrics has the yellow undertone of these pants. Anyone seen them IRL?

Also: anyone have any sources for 14 oz+ cream wool in barathea, gab, serge, or plain weave? I know Dugdale's 16 oz ivory barathea, but I'm looking for something more towards yellow. Thanks for any help.
post #3097 of 12539
Hardy has a few gabardines that you might be interested in, click here

Also, Hainsworth (British Army suppliers) may have what you're looking for.
post #3098 of 12539
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Hardy has a few gabardines that you might be interested in, click here
Also, Hainsworth (British Army suppliers) may have what you're looking for.

Thanks, Roger. Any experience with Hardy's cream or wheat garbardines? The photos on their site have a bad reputation of being unrepresentative of the fabric colors, so I don't know what to expect. I may have to go to Hainsworth to get a yellowish cream: anyone have any experience with their worsted?
post #3099 of 12539
No experience first-hand, but Minnis/Hardy are very good about sending out samples, so do contact them.
post #3100 of 12539
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I think 13oz is optimal.
Didn't you say you had sweat gland issues... Be careful with the 16oz...

You can be comfortable in much heavier trousers than jackets and over time I have moved to pants that weigh more than my odd jackets as they drape better.

13 ounce gabardine, for example, is fine in all but the hottest weather. 16 ounce flannel is good up to 65 degrees. Etc.
post #3101 of 12539
How durable is gabardine? I love the hand and how it holds a good crease, but I remember having a pair of gab trousers (cheap ones) in college that wore away at the seat in no time.
post #3102 of 12539
Use this test for gabs. The good ones have diagonal / twill weave on the face of the cloth and the same identical diagonal weave on the back. Cheap gabs show a diagonal weave on the face of the cloth and show a plain weave pattern on the back. Plain weave shows the yarns running parallel, 90* angles and not diagonal.
post #3103 of 12539
Thanks, Chris. That's good to know.
post #3104 of 12539
I normally wear away trousers very quickly, but my BB gabardines are holding up very well.
post #3105 of 12539
This is good to know. Thanks!
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