Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by RogerC

HFW are very good at sending free samples, if necessary.

Originally Posted by mlongano

Emma at HFW will fix you up:

Emma Kilburn [[email protected]]

Gents - thanks for this heads up. My swatches are being sent out today.

 

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by bleachboy

Hey there, cloth wonks! I figured I'd post this here instead of starting a new thread...

What is a good source for shirting-quality linen fabrics?

Acorn fabrics are always a good bet, especially in terms of value. Otherwise, some great linen is being made in Belgium that Sam Hober seems to have access to. I don't know if they sell private though...

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by TRINI

- Shoulders have been brought in a touch since the last commission
- Length is 1/2" shorter.
- I'm not completely comfortable with the lower 1-button stance. It's a true 1-button stance as opposed to just being where the 2nd button would be on a 3-r-2. I'd probably take it up an inch or so on the next commission.

 

[forex]

Trini, agree on the button stance. I think it needs to be a little higher. Those lapels are BIG. Overall,very good but the low button stance throws the balance off a little,IMO.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

That's a bute'

 

[edmorel]

here is what I would suggest:

lower the gorge and slight reduction of lapel width
raise the one button (My preference is 3roll2) at least 1.5 inches.
don't cut the jacket cuff straight, cut it at an angle
I would get more room in the hips, to match with the shoulders
extend chest pocket, I know the lapels are wide but the pockets seems to small

 

[NOBD]

Agree with you on the button stance, Trini; higher would be better, I think. The lapels are too wide for my taste: the breast pocket almost disappears behind them; and the notch seems quite wide/open. (Wide-angle pic exaggerates these things.) Perhaps slightly slimmer sleeves?

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by forex

Trini, agree on the button stance. I think it needs to be a little higher. Those lapels are BIG. Overall,very good but the low button stance throws the balance off a little,IMO.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

That's a bute'

Originally Posted by edmorel

here is what I would suggest:

lower the gorge and slight reduction of lapel width
raise the one button (My preference is 3roll2) at least 1.5 inches.
don't cut the jacket cuff straight, cut it at an angle
I would get more room in the hips, to match with the shoulders
extend chest pocket, I know the lapels are wide but the pockets seems to small

Originally Posted by NOBD

Agree with you on the button stance, Trini; higher would be better, I think. The lapels are too wide for my taste: the breast pocket almost disappears behind them; and the notch seems quite wide/open. (Wide-angle pic exaggerates these things.) Perhaps slightly slimmer sleeves?

Thanks Gents - i agree with all the suggestions.

Like they say, bespoke is a work in progress.

 

[whnay.]

Agree with Edward.

Button up 1.5" or 2". Lower the gorge slightly and bring in the lapels by 1.5". Sleeve length in another 0.5".

 

[coolpapa]

Originally Posted by edmorel

here is what I would suggest:

lower the gorge and slight reduction of lapel width
raise the one button (My preference is 3roll2) at least 1.5 inches.
don't cut the jacket cuff straight, cut it at an angle
I would get more room in the hips, to match with the shoulders
extend chest pocket, I know the lapels are wide but the pockets seems to small

+1

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by edmorel

here is what I would suggest:

lower the gorge and slight reduction of lapel width
raise the one button (My preference is 3roll2) at least 1.5 inches.
don't cut the jacket cuff straight, cut it at an angle
I would get more room in the hips, to match with the shoulders
extend chest pocket, I know the lapels are wide but the pockets seems to small

Make your Italian jacket English

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Agree with Edward.

Button up 1.5" or 2". Lower the gorge slightly and bring in the lapels by 1.5". Sleeve length in another 0.5".

+1 - exactly what I was thinking.

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by edmorel

here is what I would suggest:

lower the gorge and slight reduction of lapel width
raise the one button (My preference is 3roll2) at least 1.5 inches.
don't cut the jacket cuff straight, cut it at an angle
I would get more room in the hips, to match with the shoulders
extend chest pocket, I know the lapels are wide but the pockets seems to small

Ed has spoken...wisely.

Originally Posted by TRINI

Like they say, bespoke is a work in progress.

And that's the attitude one needs to have. Good luck and have fun!

 

[C&A]

TRINI, much like the look of the fabric you chose. As per some of the suggestions above, I would reduce lapel width a bit and lower the gorge. Shorten the sleeves a bit and maybe trim them a bit more towards the cuff (but maybe that is not necessary when you shorten the sleeves a bit). Certainly would move up the button. Also would change the shape of the quarters. These look a bit 'square', whilst I think the jacket would benefit if the quarters were cut a bit more round.

Does the grey suit on the M&S hanger have exactly the same configuarion?

PS. I've looked at the picture again and probably instead of trimming the cuffs a bit, having them cut at a slight angle is a much better suggestion.

Originally Posted by TRINI

Like they say, bespoke is a work in progress.

That's definately also my experience. And apparently it's never really finished.

 

[jamaican]

Originally Posted by forex

Is this thornproof? What is the fabric? I am getting me a donegal coat,I like thornproof 62016 not sure this is what you got. Also need a gray herringbone,any ideas?

Last time I looked, Lesser, now under LBD had a fantastic grey herringbone in their Barbera/Lesser sportsjacketings. (The book seem sto be in run-off, but this was still available a few months ago. I forget the weight, perhaps 11 0r 12 Oz... not sure. If you've got the bank for that, there is nothing like it... I have the same blue thornproof as Trini and the Lesser... the Lesser is - I am afraid - on another level. The handle is superior... heck, its a different cloth. Not a Donegal... feels super soft. True. J