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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1297

post #19441 of 19918
^ and the grouse? Kill every fucking one of them and let God sort it out, right?
post #19442 of 19918

I'm not quite sure I follow the intricacies here, but clearly whoever put that thing in Sedwell's window was having a laugh - even in Mayfair there's not one pub terrace where you'd feel comfortable poking your mates in the eye with your shoulder blades.  

post #19443 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^ and the grouse? Kill every fucking one of them and let God sort it out, right?

So what are you proposing for summer, cloth and configuration please?
post #19444 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marsay View Post

I'm not quite sure I follow the intricacies here, but clearly whoever put that thing in Sedwell's window was having a laugh - even in Mayfair there's not one pub terrace where you'd feel comfortable poking your mates in the eye with your shoulder blades.  

Forget the intricacies - you aren't even following the broad strokes. I can think of 3 houses that offer those shoulders as the default right now. But feel free to continuing to poke your mates with whatever you've been poking them with prior to now. That shoulder is optional.
post #19445 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

So what are you proposing for summer, cloth and configuration please?

I'm definitely going to replicate that Taub double breasted in a suit. I don't want pure linen but it will be summer weight and unlined. And I'm going to use that VBC cotton hopsack that I posted above on an unlined one-button jacket from Cifonelli with patch pockets but the typical Cifonelli shoulder. That's as far as I've gotten for now.
post #19446 of 19918

I meant the intricacies of your dispute. I was aware that a number of Row tailors do an extreme roped shoulder - which makes it no less bizarre on that particular configuration. If your lifestyle calls for a military uniform in navy blue linen (luxury yachts?), bully for you. 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


Forget the intricacies - you aren't even following the broad strokes. I can think of 3 houses that offer those shoulders as the default right now. But feel free to continuing to poke your mates with whatever you've been poking them with prior to now. That shoulder is optional.
post #19447 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I'm definitely going to replicate that Taub double breasted in a suit. I don't want pure linen but it will be summer weight and unlined. And I'm going to use that VBC cotton hopsack that I posted above on an unlined one-button jacket from Cifonelli with patch pockets but the typical Cifonelli shoulder. That's as far as I've gotten for now.

So you're going to meet the master?





Dammit, I like your cifonelli jackets.
Edited by lordsuperb - 10/5/16 at 9:25pm
post #19448 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


I'm definitely going to replicate that Taub double breasted in a suit. I don't want pure linen but it will be summer weight and unlined. And I'm going to use that VBC cotton hopsack that I posted above on an unlined one-button jacket from Cifonelli with patch pockets but the typical Cifonelli shoulder. That's as far as I've gotten for now.

FWIW I think the roped sleeve head and pagoda shoulder are just as good with summer/lighter fabrics and do not need to be restricted to heavier cold weather fabrics.  The photos are evidence enough, if it were me, Id probably opt for the roping to be a little more subtle but the pic looks good. My personal philosophy is to go with the shoulder that makes me look the best, and based on what Ive seen over time 9/10, perhaps more, people look better with structured shoulders. I have broad more squared shoulders and I prefer the roping.

 

Have you considered some of the wool, silk, linen blends that Loro Piana and Dormeuil make for summer suiting?  Nice combo of soft and light with good memory retention and strength.

post #19449 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYDRH View Post

Have you considered some of the wool, silk, linen blends that Loro Piana and Dormeuil make for summer suiting?  Nice combo of soft and light with good memory retention and strength.

no, but would like to. any pics?
post #19450 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


no, but would like to. any pics?

I'll try to put up some real life pics of that this evening.  Im also a fan of the seersucker DB LordSuperb posted, I believe that is Loro Piana wool/silk that is earmarked for my next summer suiting.

post #19451 of 19918

Previewed the new Smith's Finmeresco sample book this week. Some very new cloths and creative colors. Most innovative is a fresco type hopsack for jackets. Very open weave, very dense yarns, good color range. Even a hopsack with the colors of solaro cloth with a touch of restraint. 

 

The bulk of the range follow the colors of Minnis Fresco. There is an addition of windowpane patterns.

 

If you prefer coarse texture and mottled colors you will prefer Minnis. If you want a smoother texture and finish, go with Smiths

post #19452 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

If you prefer coarse texture and mottled colors you will prefer Minnis. If you want a smoother texture and finish, go with Smiths

So Minnis is for garbagemen?
post #19453 of 19918
If this is the Loro Piana cloth it is 90% Super 150's and 10% silk.  
This tie with this jacket and shirt drives me nuts. Shirt collar is able to accommodate a large knot but this skimpy tie and knot against this shirt collar and in relation to the lapels is is all out of proportion. 




Dammit, I like your cifonelli jackets.
post #19454 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

If you prefer coarse texture and mottled colors you will prefer Minnis. If you want a smoother texture and finish, go with Smiths

So Minnis is for garbagemen?


Why would you say that? How did I imply that?

 

What are you projecting?

post #19455 of 19918

I think that's a reference to an old Hospack Suit thread.

 

Or am I being retrolled?

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