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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1294

post #19396 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Question for those of you who have worked with a lot of Drapers (though the same query applies to any other mill/supplier)

 

I'm thinking of linen and linen mix tie fabrics for the summer with the hope that Cappelli might pick up some of these (I think many of his linens come from Drapers anyway). 

 

I find the Arcobaleno appealing from a color and textural perspective:

 

Image result for drapers ARCOBALENO

 

Would be great if there was a darker brown and green in that bunch.

 

And this next bunch as been popular here, I like the streakiness. I think both would work well in more casual fits in spring and summer. Does anyone remember the name of the book below and also other suggestions? Drake's had some nice streaky linen-wool-silk mixes this past S/S season from Loro Piana I believe.

 

I know everyone is thinking fall/winter, but for ties, I'm pretty set for the cold season (not that I'm not on the lookout!). Let me know if you have interest (thinking six months ahead). I'll ask Cappelli about the possibility if there's enough.

 

 Image result for drapers silk linen 

 

 

I am going to have those for the next season.  ( not all, of course) as being linked with Drappers for some years.  Hopsack ties are the most underrated ties ever. Far better than the garza ones.

post #19397 of 19895

The Arcobaleno are a bit too slubby/visually interesting for my preference, but if Patrizio made up either the brown or the indigo w/s/l from the Draper's book you quoted, those would be nice.  

post #19398 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Think that is a bit harsh. I'd imagine quite a few folks order a suit or two and a sport coat or two each year/season, especially if they have a fit and style dialed in with a tailor.

If anything, I'd have considered it a lighthearted joke, perhaps slightly borne out of jealousy. That's an impressive haul, and I'm definitely a bit jealous myself!
post #19399 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

The Arcobaleno are a bit too slubby/visually interesting for my preference, but if Patrizio made up either the brown or the indigo w/s/l from the Draper's book you quoted, those would be nice.  


It might be that the solid linen ties he already has are from that book, but his don't look as "streaky" to me as the swatches from above. 

 

Fair enough on preference, but remember, that's a close up of the Arcobaleno. It's not much different from herringbone shantungs in terms of nubs. I suspect that the texture, visual interest would only be "strong" if at all up close. But I think it would work very nicely from a distance anywhere outside of peripersonal space.

 

Here's a tweed tie of mine that gives off the same sort of vibe. It is "present" but in the right way that one wants a HB tie or two in one's collection to have (I have other HB ties that are much more subtle).

 

 

 

This is a pic Patrizio sent me some time ago, so he has gotten some from the Arcobaleno book before (he still has this beige fabric and had the dark navy at one point):

 

post #19400 of 19895

Anyway, if others have suggestions on interesting linen-mixes (not pure linen) that have good S/S colors and visual interest, please do weigh in. Mid greens, blues and browns especially.

post #19401 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Anyway, if others have suggestions on interesting linen-mixes (not pure linen) that have good S/S colors and visual interest, please do weigh in. Mid greens, blues and browns especially.

If you're open to non-Cappellis, check out Vanda'a silk/linen in indigo shade. Really interesting matte coloring with some pretty neat and subtle variegation.
post #19402 of 19895
Don't want to derail Tweedy's hunt, but can anybody take a stab at what fabric this might be? Really intriguing lookin shade.
post #19403 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


This is a pic Patrizio sent me some time ago, so he has gotten some from the Arcobaleno book before (he still has this beige fabric and had the dark navy at one point):



I believe I have the same tie, or something similar. It's not easy for me to use. It's a bit pastel and many of my shirts are too dark for it. I am yet to find a really nice coherent combo
post #19404 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxfordDon View Post

I love the Woolen Mill on Islay. What fabric did you purchase? I have three jackets and a topcoat made from their tweeds.
By the time I got there, I had (unfortunately) already purchased an unconscionable amount of tweed. I got 3.5m of something similar to this, but in a bluer lovat and with a square windowpane:


I see a lot more yardage from this mill in my future.
post #19405 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


I believe I have the same tie, or something similar. It's not easy for me to use. It's a bit pastel and many of my shirts are too dark for it. I am yet to find a really nice coherent combo


Yes, while I like the texture of that fabric, it's too light to be versatile. I'm surprised it's "pastel", though perhaps yours is of a different fabric or we understand the use of the word differently (which might be true since I'm not sure what it means but I think I know it when I see it, you know, like...). Some of the fabrics in that bunch do have a pastel-like appearance. Cappelli or from someone else?

 

I'm guessing: white BD shirt, for sure or a really light, light chromatic shirt (blue, pink, maybe lavender), plus lighter jackets would work?? So much easier to think it works in theory and to be surprised in practice.

 

I'll look at the Vanda though looking for slightly lighter ties. Anyway, hunt over @ericgereghty. Thanks for the thoughts.

post #19406 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Question for those of you who have worked with a lot of Drapers... [snip]

 

 

And this next bunch as been popular here, I like the streakiness. I think both would work well in more casual fits in spring and summer. Does anyone remember the name of the book below and also other suggestions? 

 

 Image result for drapers silk linen 

 

I think the book is called Seta e Lino.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

Don't want to derail Tweedy's hunt, but can anybody take a stab at what fabric this might be? Really intriguing lookin shade.

 

This could in fact be the brown WSL from the above Draper book - I know Chad had a suit made up in that fabric. Otherwise, I'm guessing maybe a tobacco linen - possibly the Draper super 120's?

post #19407 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


This is a pic Patrizio sent me some time ago, so he has gotten some from the Arcobaleno book before (he still has this beige fabric and had the dark navy at one point):



I believe I have the same tie, or something similar. It's not easy for me to use. It's a bit pastel and many of my shirts are too dark for it. I am yet to find a really nice coherent combo

Pretty sure I have the same tie as well - not sure pastel is the best adjective but I also basically never wear it. The combination of light color and informal weave makes it tricky for me to pair - shirts being the issue, not jackets.
post #19408 of 19895
It's important to put aside one's tendency to look for contrast with a tie like that. Embrace palewave and low contrast, pair with a white or very pale blue shirt and a summer suit.





A white/pale shirt and grey suit would be nice too



Same can be done with a blue suit IMO. Keep it simple with a cream square.
post #19409 of 19895
Greg, constantly thumbing his nose at the rules through speaking common sense...agreed fully.
post #19410 of 19895
I really like these samples of 390g open weave cotton hopsack from Vitale Barberis Canonico for a quarter-lined summer odd jacket. The irregular weave makes it stand out from a lot of the other fabrics I've been considering. Mentally I'm having a hard time getting over the hump of paying bespoke money for a cotton jacket, but this one is getting me pretty close to pulling the trigger with the beige.


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