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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1293

post #19381 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Minnis 0656 in the wild. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I was curious about the Savile Row address on the fabric label, so I took a look at Hardy Minnis' website.

It appears that J&J Minnis set up a fabric showroom at no. 16 Savile Row in 1874, and quickly became one of the main suppliers to their neighbouring tailoring houses. In 1969 they merged with John G Hardy, famous for popularising Harris Tweed and supplying some of Edward VIII's most distinctive cloths. JG Hardy's Royal Warrant was carried over to the merged company, whose mills are these days located in Huddersfield.

I wonder whether the Savile Row location is still active. Does anyone know?

You use Coccinella? How do you like their work?
post #19382 of 19918
With apologies for poor photo quality:

post #19383 of 19918
Does anyone know how to get Fintex of London cut length? The official agent here is not interested in selling fintex at all.
post #19384 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


You use Coccinella? How do you like their work?


Excellent work on my two commissions so far. Check out my other photos on the Ongoing Bespoke Projects thread - I've taken some shots of the interior work too.

 

I would describe their style as Florentine/Neapolitan tribute, very relaxed lines, minimal padding.

 

Also great value for money (at this point at least). They have prices on their tumblr. Two levels - I opted for the "deluxe" level with more handwork.

 

Having said that, the best value bespoke suit was my very first, from a now-defunct menswear house in Shanghai (Stel Lee Bespoke). About US$800 all up for a completely bespoke, hand-stitched suit in Marzoni WSL fabric. Amazing.

post #19385 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


Yes, Joe Hemrajani. I see Joe when he visits San Jose. They nailed the fit right from the start. We've tweaked my pattern from time to time, but I've been (and continue to be) very happy with the results I get from them. They have made me several superb double-breasted suits and jackets, and I'm very pleased with the SB jackets. I love the trousers they've made for me.

My advice would be to take along a jacket or suit that fits you well and use that as a basis. That's what I did, so I can't speak for how it goes starting from a clean sheet of paper, as it were. My trouser pattern, however, is not a copy of anything. Neither is my DB pattern. Other than that, I would approach your appointment in the same way I'd approach any custom tailor. Know what you want and ask a lot of questions.

I didn't see the thread you mention.

Thanks for the detailed reply and advice which I really appreciate. I've heard a lot of good things about Joe but unfortunately he doesn't come to my neck of the woods. I have one shoulder that has quite a drop to it so I was planning to nail down my fit in relatively cheaper shirts before proceeding to sport coats. I'm just hoping that achieving a well fitting shirt will translate into a well fitting jacket the first time out.

Thread I was talking about is here.
post #19386 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

If anyone has 3.75m of solid charcoal flannel that they are looking to offload, please pm me.

Looking for something that is not too expensive i can use to try out a new mtm outfit.

If you don't mind me asking, which MTM outfit are you auditioning?
post #19387 of 19918
My liabilities are being funded at my tailor Gianni Volpe in Naples:

Fresco 8/9oz by Minnis


Agnelli Tweed 13oz by London Lounge


Overcoating 21/22oz by Harrison's


8/9oz and 13oz by Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser

post #19388 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

If you don't mind me asking, which MTM outfit are you auditioning?

I plan on trying out @spiermackay Spier and Mackay in Toronto. I use them for all my shirts. @Claghorn had a suit made by them before, and it looked great. They have a location a block from my house where I can drop off the cloth, and be seen in person by a tailor who takes measurements. Also, their OTR cut is already a good starting point for me.

Fully canvassed CMT for $550 cdn. You can customize to a greater degree than other mtm places. So, for example, I know I like 3.75" lapels. 4.25" lapels feel too large, and 3.5" lapels feel just slightly too small. Other users have posted higher rise trousers that looked great. I plan on getting slightly higher rise (but nothing crazy) with tabs and suspender buttons.

Also, based on the production samples I've seen, they look like they can create a more relaxed shoulder than the tailor I've previously been working with.


I'm not expecting bespoke-level handwork or anything; if they can get a good fit with these extra stylistic details, I'll be very happy.
post #19389 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by turkoftheplains View Post

With apologies for poor photo quality:


I love the Woolen Mill on Islay. What fabric did you purchase? I have three jackets and a topcoat made from their tweeds.
post #19390 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasu10s View Post

My liabilities are being funded at my tailor Gianni Volpe in Naples:

Fresco 8/9oz by Minnis


Agnelli Tweed 13oz by London Lounge


Overcoating 21/22oz by Harrison's


8/9oz and 13oz by Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser


I guess moderation isn't in your vocabulary.
post #19391 of 19918
Think that is a bit harsh. I'd imagine quite a few folks order a suit or two and a sport coat or two each year/season, especially if they have a fit and style dialed in with a tailor.
post #19392 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

I guess moderation isn't in your vocabulary.

Everything in moderation, including moderation.
post #19393 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Think that is a bit harsh. I'd imagine quite a few folks order a suit or two and a sport coat or two each year/season, especially if they have a fit and style dialed in with a tailor.

It was a light hearted comment.
post #19394 of 19918

Question for those of you who have worked with a lot of Drapers (though the same query applies to any other mill/supplier)

 

I'm thinking of linen and linen mix tie fabrics for the summer with the hope that Cappelli might pick up some of these (I think many of his linens come from Drapers anyway). 

 

I find the Arcobaleno appealing from a color and textural perspective:

 

Image result for drapers ARCOBALENO

 

Would be great if there was a darker brown and green in that bunch.

 

And this next bunch as been popular here, I like the streakiness. I think both would work well in more casual fits in spring and summer. Does anyone remember the name of the book below and also other suggestions? Drake's had some nice streaky linen-wool-silk mixes this past S/S season from Loro Piana I believe.

 

I know everyone is thinking fall/winter, but for ties, I'm pretty set for the cold season (not that I'm not on the lookout!). Let me know if you have interest (thinking six months ahead). I'll ask Cappelli about the possibility if there's enough.

 

 Image result for drapers silk linen 

post #19395 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Everything in moderation, including moderation.

I wonder if @sprout2 is learning about moderation in his time of convalescence.
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