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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1291

post #19351 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Andy, that jacket looks really great. Steed or Hermajani? Either way, I really like the shoulders. Man I wish I got a length of that fabric.

Regarding Steed, I recall Despos has mentioned that Steed rotates the arm seam quite forward.

You can see it on Andy57's suit here.




You can also see it on my Steed coat here.



This detail seems quite distinctive. The arm seam is not typically so forward that it is clearly visible from the front. I don't know if there is a technical reason or part of the house style. Just a tit bit to help identify Steed suits.
post #19352 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Sweet Joseph that's a lot of fabric.

Maybe he bought some LL stuff icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #19353 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Regarding Steed, I recall Despos has mentioned that Steed rotates the arm seam quite forward.

You can see it on Andy57's suit here.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



You can also see it on my Steed coat here.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


This detail seems quite distinctive. The arm seam is not typically so forward that it is clearly visible from the front. I don't know if there is a technical reason or part of the house style. Just a tit bit to help identify Steed suits.

 

This is quite true. My wife remarks upon it every time. I don't know the reason for it, but I am curious. I will ask Edwin when I see him next.

post #19354 of 19908
I've found the flannel I was looking for. Buying a solid navy from Ed. Thanks to those that offered.
post #19355 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Just woke up and paid a 2.5k invoice for a shipment of fabric. Living the life over here. Also ordered some from Edmorel who's as always great to work with. Ordering a lot for my trip to HL: some Minnis, Fox, Dugdale, Harrison's Burley, Loro Piana, Colombo, VBC. Bit of everything (they aren't all for me to be clear). Thanks to everyone here for help picking stuff out and writing up experiences/recommendations in the thread.

I shudder to think of your eventual tailoring bill. Enjoy.
post #19356 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

I shudder to think of your eventual tailoring bill. Enjoy.

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post #19357 of 19908
For those of you who've tried the cricket whites from Fox, did you get the 290 or 370 grams? I know it depends on when one wants to wear them, but was hoping to hear some feedback (@Andy57?) on how they worked out as trousers.
post #19358 of 19908
Will be able to let you know about the 290g cricket whites in two weeks, dan'l.
post #19359 of 19908
Just picked up the first shirts I have knowingly had made from the Bonfanti Tessuti "Dallas" line. I'd thought this fabric would be a tad more substantial than the "New York", and maybe it is, but it is still astonishingly silky and light. The manager at Ascot Chang said that D&J Andersen's 170s book would be more durable. We shall see.

Whether he's correct or not, I think the maximum value from Bonfanti will be their "Capri" line, which is elegant enough and quite sturdy, to boot. (Also, as I just found out, Ascot Chang charges an extra $50 to make shirts from 170s fabric.) In spite of the extra expense and sheerness of the cotton, I am very happy with these specimens.
post #19360 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

For those of you who've tried the cricket whites from Fox, did you get the 290 or 370 grams? I know it depends on when one wants to wear them, but was hoping to hear some feedback (@Andy57?) on how they worked out as trousers.


I had the 290gm made up, which is a worsted flannel (as opposed to the 370, which is a woolen flannel). Fabulous trousers. Drape really well, much cooler than you might expect, holds a crease nicely. I really like mine and I wear them on a fairly regular basis during spring and summer...and early Fall. Make no mistake, though, the 290gm cloth is a substantial cloth. If you live in a super hot climate you might find limited use from them. But here in the Bay Area, on a standard summer day they are quite comfortable. Now, I don't run around or play actual cricket in them, so I don't overheat. But for me they're comfortable well into the 80s.

post #19361 of 19908
I have a pair of Formosa trousers made in Fox Bros. oatmeal flannel, and NMWA has a run of the fabric in stock right now (unsure if it's the same run of fabric or different), so I purchased 2.5m to have made up as a DB jacket. Is there a concern that the jacket fabric will look markedly different from the trousers, should I not worry about it until the fabric is in hand so I can compare to the trousers, or am I just making a mountain out of a mole hill/should I just get the jacket made and move on?
post #19362 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krish the Fish View Post

I have a pair of Formosa trousers made in Fox Bros. oatmeal flannel, and NMWA has a run of the fabric in stock right now (unsure if it's the same run of fabric or different), so I purchased 2.5m to have made up as a DB jacket. Is there a concern that the jacket fabric will look markedly different from the trousers, should I not worry about it until the fabric is in hand so I can compare to the trousers, or am I just making a mountain out of a mole hill/should I just get the jacket made and move on?

Mehh, probably not fretting over too greatly. If they're markedly different, you'll still have an awesome odd jacket and trousers. If they're nearly or fully identical, you'll have an awesome suit that can be split into separated as well.

Either way, you're good to go.
post #19363 of 19908
That makes a ton of sense actually. Great points. Thank you!
post #19364 of 19908
Thank you for the feedback, Andy. I didn't notice that one was worsted while the other was wollen.

Not 100% sure I'll have them made up, but always been curious about the fabric and since I'm ordering some swatches from Fox, thought I'd order that one too.
post #19365 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Just woke up and paid a 2.5k invoice for a shipment of fabric. Living the life over here. Also ordered some from Edmorel who's as always great to work with. Ordering a lot for my trip to HL: some Minnis, Fox, Dugdale, Harrison's Burley, Loro Piana, Colombo, VBC. Bit of everything (they aren't all for me to be clear). Thanks to everyone here for help picking stuff out and writing up experiences/recommendations in the thread.

Ed is bad news for the wallet
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