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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1288

post #19306 of 19897
If anyone has 3.75m of solid charcoal flannel that they are looking to offload, please pm me.

Looking for something that is not too expensive i can use to try out a new mtm outfit.
post #19307 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

try tip top fabrics in brooklyn

Would have been my suggestion as well. Then walk a few blocks over and get a lobster roll and lobster joint.
post #19308 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here is a chart in order of ascending coarseness/farmerness

Italian woolens -->Worsted Alsport --> Breanish Tweed -->SherryTweed -->Shetland Tweed -->Alsport/Lovat/Thornproofs -->Harris Tweed

This is not entirely accurate as they are of different weaves and openness. Shetland tweed has been described as "soft" in the posts above, but it is rough spun and a far cry from a smooth worsted, so it is high on the rustic/farmer scale. 

Users have become tired of the smooth look and feel of faux tweeds and their lack of "authenticity" and seek to denigrate them, but my argument is that a functional wardrobe that chooses to incorporate tweed-like variants (not a requirement, some will eschew them entirely) should AT MOST be limited to fake tweeds or ones on the soft end of the spectrum unless you a) go grouse hunting b) are prince charles c) are planning on going on a historical tour of old Scotland and want to fit in (hint: you will not fit in).  Heavy and coarse tweeds in exploded patterns can be used sparingly if you already have hundreds of jackets, but going ga-ga every 10 posts over the latest exploded glen check in a muddy beige strikes me as pathological. One false move and this kind of jacket looks old, coarse, and anachronistic.

Fortunately, Marling & Evans is high on the taste scale. Like I said, that bunch has a lot of good ones. I have four jackets on order from that bunch. I lingered over that glen check for one second and concluded that the combination of scale, undyed weave, and texture are just off. It's not bad, just not quite right, and the scale is all "retired Floridian widow," not "Duke of Windsor."

It doesn't necessarily have to be all smooth. Instead of going all hairy and loose (realistically, how many shetland jackets can you wear in a season before being mistaken for a sheep herder?), I think the best compromise is something in a tufted lambswool in a heavier weight and scaled-down pattern (very interesting category), nevermind whether it is taxanomically a tweed. You get that texture without the "hey I'm a time traveler from the 1980s, or I just look like one and bought this Peruvian orange and green alpaca fabric from Torsten." Certain Yorkshire tweeds also have a good extruded quality and a hand that is not too extreme. Harder finish but soft weave (with Shetland being soft finish soft weave and harris tweed being hard finish hard weave). I'm not sure if @heldentenor
is objecting to smooth finished worsted tweedlikes exclusively, but the alternative suggestion of Shetland is a bit extreme to me.

So maybe 10:2 ratio of city tweeds and checks to actual hairy tweeds?

Incidentally, my tailor flat-out refuses to make me anything in Worsted Alsport because it is "too bumpkinesque." Yes I live in cities. So if worsted alsport is too country, you can see how a big ol' shetland tweed is too obvious a gesture, an unabashed gesture of "Helloooooo fall!" that you would probably want to engage in sparingly.

You spent all of Saturday night thinking about texture but didn't give an answer for color/pattern. What gives? How do we keep from looking like a UPS executive while still being somewhat subdued?

Captions please!!!








Edited by lordsuperb - 9/25/16 at 3:24pm
post #19309 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


You spent all of Saturday night thinking about texture but didn't give an answer for color/pattern. What gives? How do we keep from looking like a UPS executive while still being somewhat subdued?

Captions please!!!

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My Name is Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David and I Endorse this Glen Check

 

 

 

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Winterfresh Burst w/ Added Xylitol

 

The pure exuberance of emerald’s green color has inspired the Pantone Company, the industry standard for print, fashion, beauty and décor to declare emerald the 2013 Color of the Year, describing it as “Lively. Radiant. Lush...a color of elegance and beauty that enhances our sense of well-being, balance and harmony."

 


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Justin O'Shea x Chris Despos Escorial

 

"Building an outfit is like building a house," says Justin O'Shea, Brioni's new creative director and enfant terrible of the fashion world. "You don't need formal training in fashion, just experience putting up drywall and handling power tools. Slap that shit together and sand it down." O'Shea partnered with veteran StyleForum poster Mr. Despos to present this pairing, featuring Corn Muffin Yellow flannel pants and a classic blue striped shirt. "The key to the jacket," says Despos, "is defying expectations and avoiding falling into categories. This picture is actually taken from a 1983 edition of a book by Berhard Roetzel, with the photo emulsion sufficiently muddy that you can't tell whether the jacket is brown, black, or green. It's kind of an element of surprise. You won't know until you receive the jacket that it is, in fact, brown." O'Shea steps in to discuss the tie, from Brioni's new Limited Edition Mythical Beasts of Prey collection. "This is inspired by the shape of a dragon's tail whipping its way through the darkness. In high school, I had a legendary rare Magic the Gathering card, Elder Black Dragon, that only cost two mana to tap but did 8 points of damage to the other player. That card was dope. This tie is inspired by that card."

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

My Other Car is a Mazda

 

I may be a Certified Public Accountant and seem fairly staid, but I know how to mix it up. The pattern says dead of winter, but the fabric composition says midsummer! I also matched my pocket square to my chino pants.


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

How Merlot can you Go

 

Hello, my name is Todd, and I'll be your server this evening!! Welcome to Momofuku Noodle Bar my lovely ladies and gentlemen! You all look amazing today.  I highly recommend the Momofuku Gumballs, in which we slow-cook a whole chicken for over 24 hours in a special sauce and then insert the chicken into actual dime store gumballs, creating a chewy, chickeny taste sensation. If you need anything, don't hesitate to ask -- I'm not only your server, I'm the maitre'd -- maitre deez nuts! Am I right!

 

 

post #19310 of 19897
You're a peculiar one Slim Sprouty.
post #19311 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

:rotflmao:Thanks for making my Monday morning start with a laugh!

post #19312 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

You're a peculiar one Slim Sprouty.

 

Don't hate the player, hate the game.

post #19313 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

:rotflmao:Thanks for making my Monday morning start with a laugh!

 

Good to see you posting again!

post #19314 of 19897
Can anyone recommend a nice, fresco-like fabric in 9/10 oz from Dugdale Bros, Caccioppoli or Carnet?

I'm trying a new tailor in a few days and he prefers to work from these books. I had my eyes on the Minnis 520, so something similar would be great.

Edit: Dugdale's New Fine Worsteds seems to fit the bill...
Edited by sebastian mcfox - 9/26/16 at 5:13am
post #19315 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Can anyone recommend a nice, fresco-like fabric in 9/10 oz from Dugdale Bros, Caccioppoli or Carnet?

I'm trying a new tailor in a few days and he prefers to work from these books. I had my eyes on the Minnis 520, so something similar would be great.

Edit: Dugdale's New Fine Worsteds seems to fit the bill...

Dugdale NFW is not a fresco in my opinion. What I've seen in their bunch looks like it will wear quite warm.
post #19316 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post

Dugdale NFW is not a fresco in my opinion. What I've seen in their bunch looks like it will wear quite warm.
Interesting, is there an alternative you would recommend from any of the makers I specified?
post #19317 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Interesting, is there an alternative you would recommend from any of the makers I specified?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Interesting, is there an alternative you would recommend from any of the makers I specified?

I don't know of any suiting in the bunches you mentioned. I've used Caccioppoli for 9-10 oz jacketings. Maybe you could ask your tailor to pick a navy or blue jacketing from Caccioppoli?
post #19318 of 19897

Yo I am drunk as a skunk right now feel free to ask me all your fabric relayted questions

post #19319 of 19897

Son of Sprout 1,

 

I was born in May, how much cloth should I order for a suit?

 

Do you know of an online cloth store with free shipping?

 

Thanks, google was no help with these questions

post #19320 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 

Son of Sprout 1,

 

I was born in May, how much cloth should I order for a suit?

 

Do you know of an online cloth store with free shipping?

 

Thanks, google was no help with these questions

 

1. Depends on how much junk you have in the trunk. You need extra fabric to account for wang girth and diameter

2. Amazon Prime: https://amzn.com/B012HIS5OU

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