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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1287

post #19291 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post


My ears are burning

I can't help it if I'm custom made. I can't help it if I look good, smell so good, wooo! can dance all night long.......




Ric Flair for Prez!!!!
post #19292 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

In my opinion there are some really exciting items in this bunch that (finally) is being offered more widely, but those ones are not among them -- they seem extremely vintagey and rustic. I feel as though there is a running trend of fascination with extremely rustic fabric, but unless you live in a cottage in the Outer Hebrides I think it looks extremely out of place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

I'll share with you a picture of what I consider to be a good summer color in this variety that is not brown. I greatly like the fabric and it also "looks" breezy. Unfortunately the jacket is in an experimental shape that is now the least favorite of my jackets. I have to find the jacket first.

So what is optimal and how would you implement it? Pics please......
post #19293 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post



So what is optimal and how would you implement it? Pics please......

 

I can't share all of my swag secrets with you guys or you would bite my steez

post #19294 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I actually am starting to dislike smooth faux tweeds because they have rustic designs but in fact smoother than many worsteds. I have one, and have a length of Hardy Riviera that will be made up next year, but at least for me they are strictly for shoulder seasons. With a few notable exceptions, that kind of fabric seems neither here nor there. I like the rustic look of tweed, but sometimes it can be a little dry to the touch, which is why I gravitate toward Shetland and lambswool tweeds.

 

Besides the soft hand, these are also usually found in 12oz weight--meaning that they are perfect for shoulder seasons, wearing under outer layers, and being worn inside heated buildings comfortably.  

 

I still think there's a place for the faux tweed wool/cashmere, particularly in bold but simple windowpanes with a fair bit of contrast.  

post #19295 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I like your choice, Trini; the undyed plaid appeals to me too. When are thinking of getting that made up?

Thanks P.

It'll likely be my 2017 winter commission.

SB, 3 patch.

Fash outs to Fabric God Edmorel for guidance on the decision.
post #19296 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

I can't share all of my swag secrets with you guys or you would bite my steez


What are you worried about? Anything other than brown is considered too dandy. It's okay honey I'll lead by example.


Also, please refrain from rapping in the DB thread.
post #19297 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Andy, that jacket looks really great. Steed or Hermajani? Either way, I really like the shoulders. Man I wish I got a length of that fabric.

 

 

Thanks! This one is by Hemrajani.

post #19298 of 19906
Andy, jacket looks great, particularly nice with those shoes.
post #19299 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Andy, jacket looks great, particularly nice with those shoes.


Thanks, sug!

post #19300 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post



So what is optimal and how would you implement it? Pics please......

 

Here is a chart in order of ascending coarseness/farmerness

 

Italian woolens -->Worsted Alsport --> Breanish Tweed -->SherryTweed -->Shetland Tweed -->Alsport/Lovat/Thornproofs -->Harris Tweed

 

This is not entirely accurate as they are of different weaves and openness. Shetland tweed has been described as "soft" in the posts above, but it is rough spun and a far cry from a smooth worsted, so it is high on the rustic/farmer scale. 

 

Users have become tired of the smooth look and feel of faux tweeds and their lack of "authenticity" and seek to denigrate them, but my argument is that a functional wardrobe that chooses to incorporate tweed-like variants (not a requirement, some will eschew them entirely) should AT MOST be limited to fake tweeds or ones on the soft end of the spectrum unless you a) go grouse hunting b) are prince charles c) are planning on going on a historical tour of old Scotland and want to fit in (hint: you will not fit in).  Heavy and coarse tweeds in exploded patterns can be used sparingly if you already have hundreds of jackets, but going ga-ga every 10 posts over the latest exploded glen check in a muddy beige strikes me as pathological. One false move and this kind of jacket looks old, coarse, and anachronistic.

 

Fortunately, Marling & Evans is high on the taste scale. Like I said, that bunch has a lot of good ones. I have four jackets on order from that bunch. I lingered over that glen check for one second and concluded that the combination of scale, undyed weave, and texture are just off. It's not bad, just not quite right, and the scale is all "retired Floridian widow," not "Duke of Windsor."

 

It doesn't necessarily have to be all smooth. Instead of going all hairy and loose (realistically, how many shetland jackets can you wear in a season before being mistaken for a sheep herder?), I think the best compromise is something in a tufted lambswool in a heavier weight and scaled-down pattern (very interesting category), nevermind whether it is taxanomically a tweed. You get that texture without the "hey I'm a time traveler from the 1980s, or I just look like one and bought this Peruvian orange and green alpaca fabric from Torsten." Certain Yorkshire tweeds also have a good extruded quality and a hand that is not too extreme. Harder finish but soft weave (with Shetland being soft finish soft weave and harris tweed being hard finish hard weave). I'm not sure if @heldentenor is objecting to smooth finished worsted tweedlikes exclusively, but the alternative suggestion of Shetland is a bit extreme to me.

 

So maybe 10:2 ratio of city tweeds and checks to actual hairy tweeds?

 

Incidentally, my tailor flat-out refuses to make me anything in Worsted Alsport because it is "too bumpkinesque." Yes I live in cities. So if worsted alsport is too country, you can see how a big ol' shetland tweed is too obvious a gesture, an unabashed gesture of "Helloooooo fall!" that you would probably want to engage in sparingly.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Also, please refrain from rapping in the DB thread.

 

That wasn't me, it was Slim Sprouty, an ardent fan.

post #19301 of 19906
I think you think too much.
post #19302 of 19906
To be fair, I hear your argument, but I'd counter that most plebs that aren't fabric nerds like us don't notice coarseness; they notice color and pattern. Both can be outlandish or subdued, depending on your taste. Personally I prefer the tactile surface of tweed and so gravitate toward those with surface interest but with a soft hand. If you dig worsted tweeds, who am I to call you out as a poser? I live in the Marina district of San Francisco. No one is going to ask if I enjoy falconry.
post #19303 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I think you think too much.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/529561/appropriate-desert-boots-w-suit/0_100#post_8586462

post #19304 of 19906

guys - what are the good stores that one can use to buy fabric online? If they have a return policy or can send samples out prior to buying, that'll be great too. Looking for the standard 100% wools - 120s and 130s. I'm in NYC
 

post #19305 of 19906

try tip top fabrics in brooklyn

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