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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1282

post #19216 of 19905
How urban/evening/dressy do you want it to be? 15c is almost 60F-- I'd almost never wear an overcoat of any sort at that temperature unless it were punishingly damp. YMMV, of course, depending on your internal heat regulator.

One option, if you want a good city topcoat, is a suiting fabric. 13oz or 16oz. You could get a charcoal herringbone, or the same in navy. MAYBE a hopsack. Sometimes Italians do that when they want to look sharp but not overheat. You do have to be careful, as it should look like a coat and not a suit. I was going to suggest Harrison's Oyster, but there may be something similar in the VBC catalogue, or one of the very English books from Holland & Sherry or even Scabal.

If you want very crisp, and are willing to have it not last forever b/c of shine, a cavalry twill from one of the trousering books will be a pleasant step up from trenchcoat cotton and still be graceful enough to roll up easily while traveling on planes, etc.

If you want a little more casual, Donegal tweeds do breathe well. There are players other than W. Bill, but I don't know who they are at the moment. Be careful with Scabal, Dormeuil, and some others-- in addition to the real stuff, they sell "tweeds" that look to be aimed at the disposable ladies' fashion market.
post #19217 of 19905
Thread Starter 
Covert is about as light as I would go for a topcoat.
post #19218 of 19905
Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.









Except for the grey these are being made up at the moment, I'm doing the red and the large birds eye type cloth.
post #19219 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.
Now there's an oxymoron!
post #19220 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Except for the grey these are being made up at the moment, I'm doing the red and the large birds eye type cloth.

 

That red! :slayer:

post #19221 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Have you checked out Abraham Moon's books?  I would bet pretty good money on that first tweed being Moon.  If anyone has a lead on a gunclub fabric like the second one above (dark, rich undertone, highlights across the spectrum from blue-orange), point me that way. 

I know this has been asked before, but I'm not sure I've ever seen an answer. Does Moon sell to the general public at all? I've never been able to get them to do it with me.
post #19222 of 19905

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

 

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color: 

 

 

Here's a suggested replacement:

 

 


14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

 

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.


Edited by TweedyProf - 9/20/16 at 5:23pm
post #19223 of 19905
I ordered a jacket in 14821 too. That cloth can still be a 2 1/2 - 3 season jacket for most people. It's just not something I'd want to be wearing in 75-80f weather...then again, I don't really want to wear a jacket at all in that heat. All in all, it does wear a bit warmer than the weight would lead you to believe...such an awesome bunch though.
post #19224 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color:  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Here's a suggested replacement:








14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl
 who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

Delfino has some wool-hemp blends that are nice.



post #19225 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color: 




Here's a suggested replacement:








14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl
 who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but
mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

Harrison's of Edinburgh Icarus
post #19226 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Harrison's of Edinburgh Icarus
Or Mirage, if you run a little cooler or have a decent breeze.
post #19227 of 19905

@dieworkwear  @lordsuperb @Concordia 

 

Thanks. If you've had something made up in those fabrics and can comment on how they wear, drape, hold up etc. that would be useful too. 

post #19228 of 19905
The made for kiton wool/ cashmere linen blends that Ed has been selling are pretty good for autumn, in HK anyway.
post #19229 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

@dieworkwear
  @lordsuperb
 @Concordia
 

Thanks. If you've had something made up in those fabrics and can comment on how they wear, drape, hold up etc. that would be useful too. 
I do have a Mirage jacket. Not especially cool to wear, and when Rave cleaned it, they remarked on how much dog hair was found in it. (My wife's dog doesn't shed.) Still, nice color and tasteful patterns. Drapes wonderfully well-- the tailor liked it.
post #19230 of 19905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

 

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color: 

 

 

Here's a suggested replacement:

 

 


14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

 

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

 

How about the w/s/l from Caccioppoli's summer jacketing range? (http://merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=109_110

 

Quite lightweight, but drapes pretty well. 

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