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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1274

post #19096 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 


I think Harris tweed is something you have to want all by itself. Meaning, if you want Harris tweed in a brown herringbone thats's a different thing than wanting brown herringbone tweed. I had a Harris tweed jacket for many years. Wears like iron, of course, and is beefy and warm. Eventually I, uh, outgrew it. After a few years, I sought to buy another, but found that my taste had evolved somewhat and I did not care for the bulk of the Harris tweed any longer. For my money, Glenroyal and similar bunches occupy a tweedy sweet spot at the intersection of texture and bulk.


Thanks for your thoughts, Andy. Do you think you would be of a different mind if you had to deal with real winters (i.e. snow and cold) and brisk falls? The Harris tweed seemed to better evoke the LL tweed posted earlier.

post #19097 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Thanks for your thoughts, Andy. Do you think you would be of a different mind if you had to deal with real winters (i.e. snow and cold) and brisk falls? The Harris tweed seemed to better evoke the LL tweed posted earlier.


Oh, absolutely.

 

The point I was trying to make was that Harris Tweed (and to some extent Donegal Tweed) are not like other tweeds in texture or how they make up. If you want a tweed jacket, Harris Tweed is not necessarily your first choice. I was trying to suggest that you should actually want a Harris Tweed jacket, specifically. But, as always, it's entirely up to the guy laying down his credit card.

post #19098 of 19906
Quote:
Thanks for your thoughts, Andy. Do you think you would be of a different mind if you had to deal with real winters (i.e. snow and cold) and brisk falls? The Harris tweed seemed to better evoke the LL tweed posted earlier.

Maybe it's been mentioned, but there's a black/brown HB in Moonbeam. tres comfy if not truely tweedy
This gives u an idea of it- Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by Pliny - 9/15/16 at 9:43pm
post #19099 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Still on a search for the right brown HB tweed. Sorry for bringing this up again.

1. Suggestions for good on-line sources where there are decent pictures of the fabrics?

2. Thoughts on these?

520156 or 520158 Harris Tweed 15oz

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/24

3. Default was the P&H Glenroyal 44612, though consensus was that the scale was perhaps less small than desirable for SC. Cf. the LL tweed posted above.

Never did find the Scabal tweed @dieworkwear
 mentioned, but can't say I looked that hard.

I have a sample of this brown herringbone from Lovat:



It is a lovely color and think it'd be a great SC, but find it a bit heavy at 500 grams.

I had a SC made with the lighter version (both in color & weight) of the Lovat:



At 430 grams it is at my comfort level, warmth-wise. I think 500 grams would just be too much for me to wear indoors, but of course YMMV.
post #19100 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 


I think you'll enjoy mohair underwear.

 

For the stimulating scratching feeling or the wicking properties?

I am naturally hirsute so I have a haircloth barrier blocking the pants from the nether regions even if I choose to go unlined.

post #19101 of 19906

@Pliny Thanks. It's a bit too light for what I'm looking for. @dan'l thanks, the first one is in the color range I'm looking for, but might be too heavy. Looking for 14 oz or so. The second is in a better weight but, like the Moonbeam, just a bit lighter than I want. Here's the H&S that @Mr. Six was referring to.

 

 

What is distinctive about the Harris tweed weave, btw? I have a jacket made up in it, and there's a interesting coarseness for lack of a better word. I'm curious on more detailed information on the weave and how that plays into the aesthetics of the cloth and any jackets made up from it as opposed to other common tweeds.

post #19102 of 19906
If you have the swatches in front of you, you probably know that Glenroyal is a smoother, softer tweed. It's sturdy, but it doesn't have the same springy-ness and coarseness of Harris. I suppose Harris a bit more like Shetland tweeds in that sense. Style wise, I think Andy is right that those sort of springy tweeds can look bulky when made up. Some days I like that look; some days I don't. I've never disliked the smoother Glenroyal types though. Either way, I think the prickliness of Harris and Shetlands looks very different -- esp in herringbone -- than the smoothness of Glenroyal types, so it probably depends on what you want. For lack of a better word, Harris looks more "tweedy."

Do people really find 17oz to be too heavy for tweed? Genuinely curious. One of the difficult things with tweeds is that, depending on the yarn, you could be looking at a lighter or heavier weight cloth -- so sometimes it's a choice between something like 300 gsm or 500 gsm (no in-between like 400 because of how the yarn and weave is done). I don't have a preference for either, but I've worn 21oz tweeds as jacketings in San Francisco (not a particularly cold city) and have been fine. Even in fall.
post #19103 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post



What is distinctive about the Harris tweed weave, btw? I have a jacket made up in it, and there's a interesting coarseness for lack of a better word. I'm curious on more detailed information on the weave and how that plays into the aesthetics of the cloth and any jackets made up from it as opposed to other common tweeds.

Sounds like you're more a student of the tweed than a professor, non?







































(Sorry, couldn't resist)
post #19104 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post


Sounds like you're more a student of the tweed than a professor, non?







































(Sorry, couldn't resist)


LOL @TRINI 

 

No, the moniker expresses aspiration, not expertise. 

post #19105 of 19906
I wear my coats indoor and rarely take them off in the office, so I noticed that about 450 grams (~14 oz) seems the upper limit to me. I have a Glenroyal SC which is the same weight as the light brown Lovat I posted above. If any heavier, I believe I would not feel comfortable wearing them. Then again I am not sure if another 50 grams (i.e. 10%) makes a big difference, since there are other factors, too, for example which trousers I'm wearing.

I noticed that the Shetland tweeds are around 390 grams, though. I also have an Italian donegal in that weight range and find it quite comfortable to wear indoors.
post #19106 of 19906
500g is fine 90% of the year in San Francisco. Weather that's good or bad is a personal preference, but I'm glad the weather supports heavier fabrics.
post #19107 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

500g is fine 90% of the year in San Francisco. Weather that's good or bad is a personal preference, but I'm glad the weather supports heavier fabrics.

Agreed. I could never manage it in a climate controlled environment (see: my normal ~73 degree office) but whenever I'm in SF for work, I'm always thankful for heavier camel hair SCs...

post #19108 of 19906
I assume you guys are not wearing the 500 gram coats in your offices, or?
post #19109 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

I assume you guys are not wearing the 500 gram coats in your offices, or?

I'm still fine in ~21oz tweeds indoors. I wouldn't layer knitwear under it, but I'm comfortable with the jacket and a collared shirt.
post #19110 of 19906

Our buildings are all super-heated, so that anything above 11 oz feels warm.  Given that I work in the coldest state in the continental 48, it makes dressing for work and for the weather a real pain in the ass.

 

I'd ironically be more comfortable in heavy tweed here in July, when the central air keeps my office feeling like a meat locker.

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