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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1273

post #19081 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Very nice-- I'm going to see AC at the end of the month, and these pics are giving me impure thoughts. I wonder if they have Irish linen (or matka, or something with texture) that could serve the purpose. Standard shirting cloth does just fine, of course.

I know they have Solbiati linen. I've used it for a safari jacket. It has a slight sheen though. Shows up more in the jacket than it does in the swatch, but it's an otherwise nice cloth if you don't mind that aspect.

If you get one, I'd be curious to hear what material you choose.
post #19082 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Finally got that silk dressing gown. Silk is apparently really hard to source; I don't recommend it. Ended up getting this one through Drake's, who requested it as a special order from one of their printers. Most tie makers get their silks printed in panels, which won't work for a garment. I assume these sorts of things are usually better rtw.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Congratulations, D. That looks very Noel Coward.

post #19083 of 19898
Quote:

I know they have Solbiati linen. I've used it for a safari jacket. It has a slight sheen though. Shows up more in the jacket than it does in the swatch

Common for linen to have a sheen but it isn't the same on both sides of the cloth. I reverse the cloth and use the matte side as the face.

 

Do the same with silk shirtings

post #19084 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Another way to approach this. What does durable mean to you? How often would the flannel be worn? 

You would probably only wear the flannel during cooler weather so it gets a rest for half of the year. Even though I have clients who wear flannel all year round, even in Texas.

Would you wear this once a twice a week or once or twice per month?  

How many suits in your rotation?

If you don't have many suits and will wear this frequently/weekly you should consider getting something other than flannel until you have more suits in rotation. The nap on a flannel cloth will deteriorate  with age and wear thru. You do have the option of ordering a second trouser. The trouser is more prone to  wear issues.

If not worn hard/frequently get a flannel that feels right to you. Worsted flannels are sturdier and have a firmer hand. Woollen flannel is soft to the touch.  You have to decide which you prefer. Flannel is not a "durable" cloth by nature, regardless if there is a cashmere content.

Cheers! I have about a dozen suits and a bunch of odd jacket/trousers as well. Think I'll wear it 2-3 a month during the winter months mostly, so should be fine. Decided to go for it, and as long as it'll last me a few years I'll be happy.
post #19085 of 19898

Still on a search for the right brown HB tweed. Sorry for bringing this up again.

 

1. Suggestions for good on-line sources where there are decent pictures of the fabrics?

 

2. Thoughts on these?

 

520156 or 520158 Harris Tweed 15oz

 

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/24

 

3. Default was the P&H Glenroyal 44612, though consensus was that the scale was perhaps less small than desirable for SC. Cf. the LL tweed posted above.

 

Never did find the Scabal tweed @dieworkwear mentioned, but can't say I looked that hard.

post #19086 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Still on a search for the right brown HB tweed. Sorry for bringing this up again.

1. Suggestions for good on-line sources where there are decent pictures of the fabrics?

2. Thoughts on these?

520156 or 520158 Harris Tweed 15oz

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/24

3. Default was the P&H Glenroyal 44612, though consensus was that the scale was perhaps less small than desirable for SC. Cf. the LL tweed posted above.

Never did find the Scabal tweed @dieworkwear
 mentioned, but can't say I looked that hard.

Harris 520156 is nice. I like it better than the Glenroyal, personally. It's a larger scale herringbone.

For Scabal, you should just contact your tailor. If he or she has an account with them, it shouldn't be something you have to track down.
post #19087 of 19898
When I was looking for something similar several years ago, I recall seeing very nice HB tweeds at Holland & Sherry. Too long ago to remember the name of the book.
post #19088 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Harris 520156 is nice. I like it better than the Glenroyal, personally. It's a larger scale herringbone.

For Scabal, you should just contact your tailor. If he or she has an account with them, it shouldn't be something you have to track down.


Yes, that's my inclination too, the brown effect seems richer. Will ask about Scabal and about H&S.

post #19089 of 19898

Don't forget the H&S Sherry tweed that I suggested!

post #19090 of 19898

Guys, a little bit off: is there a thread where I could send photos of the clothes I am owning and then somebody who has a good taste, can tell me what/when how to combine?

post #19091 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by materijalmen View Post
 

Guys, a little bit off: is there a thread where I could send photos of the clothes I am owning and then somebody who has a good taste, can tell me what/when how to combine?


Try the Good Natured Advice Thread. 

 

If you're feeling more confident, you can always post your own combinations here.

post #19092 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

I would assume that too.  But I'm not sure how they were made.  I have a couple totally deconstructed cotton twill suits from Luxire and they machine wash fine.

 

Ime, poly blends are great if they have a porous weave.  I have a couple pairs of pants made of poly/wool blends, one plain weave and one like fresco, and they're extremely comfortable in hot weather, at least as comfortable as Minnis 8/9 oz pure wool fresco.  But the poly allows them to hold creases and resist wrinkles better than fresco.  Plus, it's very convenient to be able to throw the in a washing machine after a really hot, humid day.

 

Btw, I ninja-edited in a link above to a Wash Post article on Haspel that was better than the NYT one.  And here's another good article about Haspel's machine washable suits.

Sorry I just found this discussion on navy seersucker and washable suits.

 

I've written a bit about washing unstructured cotton seersucker suits on my blog.

 

Seersucker blue navy jacket

 

The RTW navy seersucker I have on my website is from Solbiati, but I can't get any more of this fabric. I would love to find another source of it. Please contact me if any of you find it.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

Doesnt anyone sell solbiati directly?

I heard from their UK agent about three years ago that Solbiati is now defunct, having been sold to Loro Piana. They may have been revived though, so am not totally sure.

post #19093 of 19898

Next summer I am going all seersucker and mohair everything. I just cannot stand the heat anymore.

post #19094 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Still on a search for the right brown HB tweed. Sorry for bringing this up again.

 

1. Suggestions for good on-line sources where there are decent pictures of the fabrics?

 

2. Thoughts on these?

 

520156 or 520158 Harris Tweed 15oz

 

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/24

 

3. Default was the P&H Glenroyal 44612, though consensus was that the scale was perhaps less small than desirable for SC. Cf. the LL tweed posted above.

 

Never did find the Scabal tweed @dieworkwear mentioned, but can't say I looked that hard.


I think Harris tweed is something you have to want all by itself. Meaning, if you want Harris tweed in a brown herringbone thats's a different thing than wanting brown herringbone tweed. I had a Harris tweed jacket for many years. Wears like iron, of course, and is beefy and warm. Eventually I, uh, outgrew it. After a few years, I sought to buy another, but found that my taste had evolved somewhat and I did not care for the bulk of the Harris tweed any longer. For my money, Glenroyal and similar bunches occupy a tweedy sweet spot at the intersection of texture and bulk.

post #19095 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

Next summer I am going all seersucker and mohair everything. I just cannot stand the heat anymore.


I think you'll enjoy mohair underwear.

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