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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1253

post #18781 of 19906
I'm fairly tall as well (188 cm) and even a below knee-length coat for me would not require more than three meters. For my on-going peacoat commission, which will end use above my knees, my tailor requested 2,4 meters. "Okay, I'll get 2,5 meters" I said. "No, no, no" my tailor insisted. "That will be too much. 2,4 will be just fine."

(in the end I bought 2,5 meters because fox only sell cuttings in half meters)
post #18782 of 19906


Doubtless just me, but I find this garish.

post #18783 of 19906
Indeed, it is just you.
post #18784 of 19906
I don't find it garish either. It looks very traditional to me. Too much so in fact.
post #18785 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

 


Doubtless just me, but I find this garish.

+1

post #18786 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Doubtless just me, but I find this garish.

Wear what you like.
post #18787 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Wear what you like.

 

post #18788 of 19906

^ bespoke

post #18789 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Wear what you like.

post #18790 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post

I had this conversation with my tailor recently. I'm tall and slim (38L in RTW) but they were adamant 3m of a solid colour should be fine, 3.5m if patterned. I think I got 4m just to be on the safe side.

I concur with this guidance. I am 6'3" with a 44 jacket and 3 m is more than enough for a solid overcoat.
post #18791 of 19906

Getting the right length of cloth for a topcoat is tricky unless you know all the variables. It's different than ordering suit or jacket lengths.

Total length of the coat, girth measurements and styling details all contribute.  Sometimes need to order different lengths of cloth for the same client to accommodate styling details.

 

Heavy napped cloth or large pattern repeats require more cloth to cut all the pieces in one direction. Patch pockets, belts, cuffs, inverted pleats, kick pleats, raglan sleeves, yokes, etc.,  all require specific cloth requirements. Double breasted may need more cloth than a single breasted.

If you have a trim build you can fit more pieces across the cloth width. If you are stocky or heavy you need more cloth length because you lose across the width.

 

Consult the maker, he would know best. Better to have extra cloth to work with.

post #18792 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 

Getting the right length of cloth for a topcoat is tricky unless you know all the variables. It's different than ordering suit or jacket lengths.

Total length of the coat, girth measurements and styling details all contribute.  Sometimes need to order different lengths of cloth for the same client to accommodate styling details.

 

Heavy napped cloth or large pattern repeats require more cloth to cut all the pieces in one direction. Patch pockets, belts, cuffs, inverted pleats, kick pleats, raglan sleeves, yokes, etc.,  all require specific cloth requirements. Double breasted may need more cloth than a single breasted.

If you have a trim build you can fit more pieces across the cloth width. If you are stocky or heavy you need more cloth length because you lose across the width.

 

Consult the maker, he would know best. Better to have extra cloth to work with.

Looking at some flannel cloth and while I know to get more for a patterned fabric than a plain, this issue of the nap also needing to be considered would have skated right by me. Thanks for the insight.

post #18793 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Doubtless just me, but I find this garish.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Indeed, it is just you.

 

It would be interesting to see a photo of this jacket being worn, in different lighting (e.g. outdoors). In this particular photo, I just find those horizontal blue bars too prominent. The ground gunclub pattern, however, is very nice. 

 

If IRL the blue highlights are more subliminal then I guess it could be stunning.

post #18794 of 19906

^I might commission such a jacket. If anyone knows who the supplier is, I would very much appreciate it!

post #18795 of 19906
Quote:
  I just find those horizontal blue bars too prominent.

Same response from clients that had this one made up. The contrasting line is sort of an aqua tone. It's nice cloth but makes up bold. Lighter ground color adds contrast.

 

Cloth is from the London Lounge

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