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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1248

post #18706 of 19895
Thanks. Weight as GSM makes the most sense to me and seems logical, but I found some Harris Tweed that was 72cm wide and at 280 grams seemed way too light. I guess in this case they are using g/m.
post #18707 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Thanks. Weight as GSM makes the most sense to me and seems logical, but I found some Harris Tweed that was 72cm wide and at 280 grams seemed way too light. I guess in this case they are using g/m.

I don't know about Harris specifically, but you can get a 280 gsm tweed. I've been working with a mill on some samples and have some 280 gsm tweed in front of me, actually (the projects I'm working on won't be that lightweight, but the samples were sent so I could see some finishes).
post #18708 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


I don't know about Harris specifically, but you can get a 280 gsm tweed. I've been working with a mill on some samples and have some 280 gsm tweed in front of me, actually (the projects I'm working on won't be that lightweight, but the samples were sent so I could see some finishes).

Yes, one English tweed mill I'm working with for a clothing brand has most tweeds ~350g/m with a few ranges in the old school ~500g/m but is working hard to bring out a lighter weight range this season.

post #18709 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Not that anyone cares, but I ended up changing that houndstooth Abraham Moon order to flapped pockets. So thanks to everyone for the discussion.
I'm curious; the gunclub from Yorkshire Fabrics looks incredibly similar. I'm getting mine with patch pockets; should be ready by November.
post #18710 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I'm curious; the gunclub from Yorkshire Fabrics looks incredibly similar. I'm getting mine with patch pockets; should be ready by November.

Not sure if you mean you're curious about my decision or something else. If it's my decision, I changed it because I mostly have patch pocket sport coats and was flipping through A&S' vanity book. Lots of flap pocket tweeds in there I liked, so I thought I'd go for something more "A&S"
post #18711 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I don't know about Harris specifically, but you can get a 280 gsm tweed. I've been working with a mill on some samples and have some 280 gsm tweed in front of me, actually (the projects I'm working on won't be that lightweight, but the samples were sent so I could see some finishes).

I've been browsing around for a light-weight tweed and found this W.Bill Harris book at 10oz/280g: http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/w-bill/handwoven-harris-tweed

The one in that set I was considering is WB64340 but I'm thinking it might be too light (in color) and/or the other yarn colors may not be quite right.



Also looking at the heavier/darker W.Bill Shetland 12/13oz 390g: http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/w-bill/shetland-tweeds

WB12146


If Steed has both books I'll see them in person in October.
post #18712 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

If Steed has both books I'll see them in person in October.

Steed has W. Bill books. They bring the tweed ones, but their books don't show everything. If you want to get a swatch they don't have on their tours, you can order it through Isles Textiles in NYC. Steed can then get the fabric (even if they don't have the swatch).

If your'e looking for a light tweed, Fox has something that I think is nice. For something more mid-brown/ dark brown, Huddersfield just released some new Harris Tweeds in that color. Both are heavier than ~280 gsm though.
post #18713 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Steed has W. Bill books. They bring the tweed ones, but their books don't show everything. If you want to get a swatch they don't have on their tours, you can order it through Isles Textiles in NYC. Steed can then get the fabric (even if they don't have the swatch).

If your'e looking for a light tweed, Fox has something that I think is nice. For something more mid-brown/ dark brown, Huddersfield just released some new Harris Tweeds in that color. Both are heavier than ~280 gsm though.

Thanks, I'll search out the Fox and Huddersfield options to take a look and see about the Isles swatches. I'm sure I could search, but didn't you have the LL brown HB (same as Vox)? Did you ever end up using it?
post #18714 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Not sure if you mean you're curious about my decision or something else.
Curious about the sameness of the cloth. Looks reeeeeealy close.
post #18715 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

Thanks, I'll search out the Fox and Huddersfield options to take a look and see about the Isles swatches. I'm sure I could search, but didn't you have the LL brown HB (same as Vox)? Did you ever end up using it?

Yea, I had it turned into a sport coat. Tailoring was by Steed.

That's a really nice cloth as well, but I don't think it's available anymore. It's a Lovat Shetland, so spongier and more loosely woven than Fox and Harris.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Curious about the sameness of the cloth. Looks reeeeeealy close.

Ah, yea. I think it's the same one.
post #18716 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Yea, I had it turned into a sport coat. Tailoring was by Steed.

That's a really nice cloth as well, but I don't think it's available anymore. It's a Lovat Shetland, so spongier and more loosely woven than Fox and Harris.

 

Interesting. Is that a characteristic of Lovat Shetlands? I just received a length of a Shetland woven by Lovat. It is very spongy (or would springy be a better description) and considering the length, it is remarkably bulky. I'm wondering quite how to get it made up.

post #18717 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

Interesting. Is that a characteristic of Lovat Shetlands? I just received a length of a Shetland woven by Lovat. It is very spongy (or would springy be a better description) and considering the length, it is remarkably bulky. I'm wondering quite how to get it made up.

I haven't compared them to Shetlands in a similar weight. The only other Shetlands I've seen are lighter. It may be that the Lovat Shetlands I own are very heavy, so thickness + loose weave = extra spongey/ springy.
post #18718 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 

 

Interesting. Is that a characteristic of Lovat Shetlands? I just received a length of a Shetland woven by Lovat. It is very spongy (or would springy be a better description) and considering the length, it is remarkably bulky. I'm wondering quite how to get it made up.

I have 3 of them at this point. One made up (herringbone below) and two unfunded. I don't think it wears any more bulky than a Harris tweed. I went with 3 patch. 

 

Lovat:

 

Harris:

post #18719 of 19895
^ I guess that's true. Now that I think about it, mine aren't any bulkier than similar weighted tweeds. For some reason, that sponginess makes me think mine have less shape, but maybe it's all in my head.
post #18720 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post
 

I have 3 of them at this point. One made up (herringbone below) and two unfunded. I don't think it wears any more bulky than a Harris tweed. I went with 3 patch. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

^ I guess that's true. Now that I think about it, mine aren't any bulkier than similar weighted tweeds. For some reason, that sponginess makes me think mine have less shape, but maybe it's all in my head.

 

I'm not worried about the apparent bulk--it was more of an observation of how some fabrics occupy more volume for a given length or weight than others. This Lovat Shetland being on the "high volume" end of the spectrum. I'll probably get it made up as a fairly standard (for me) tweed jacket, with flapped pockets at the hips and a welted breast pocket. I can't imagine much of anything making up a beefier garment than my recently-finished Molloy Donegal jacket. That thing is a brute.

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