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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1246

post #18676 of 19918
Maybe this has been covered elsewhere, but what are some general rules of thumb when selecting fabrics from swatches, something I find incredibly difficult? I sometimes wish I could take the swatch with me home and look at it for a few weeks but I haven't dared suggest that to my tailor. This has also been a reason for not using traveling tailors; I just can't make up my mind quickly enough.

My experience has been that colors appear duller and darker as a fabric swatch than they do as a garment. As a rule, I therefore always go a shade darker than what I instinctively would choose, after having had a bad experience with something turning out much brighter than I had expected.

I haven't dared make anything in a bold pattern, as I have such trouble imagining it as a full garment. Any advice here?
post #18677 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

D, I'd go with crescent-shaped jetted pockets, especially with a tweed fabric named "moon."


crazy.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

Maybe this has been covered elsewhere, but what are some general rules of thumb when selecting fabrics from swatches, something I find incredibly difficult? I sometimes wish I could take the swatch with me home and look at it for a few weeks but I haven't dared suggest that to my tailor. This has also been a reason for not using traveling tailors; I just can't make up my mind quickly enough.

My experience has been that colors appear duller and darker as a fabric swatch than they do as a garment. As a rule, I therefore always go a shade darker than what I instinctively would choose, after having had a bad experience with something turning out much brighter than I had expected.

I haven't dared make anything in a bold pattern, as I have such trouble imagining it as a full garment. Any advice here?

For patterns, buy your own fabric, you'll still probably pick up one or two that you end up not liking, but it's better to waste money on 2 meters of fabric that you never use then to have a jacket made that you never wear or dislike. For solids, you should be looking at greys/blues/browns so that's not really too difficult, worse case should be something not the exact shade you thought it was. If you wear suits outside of the "normal" colors, then you may want to get your own there too.
post #18678 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

crazy.gif
For patterns, buy your own fabric, you'll still probably pick up one or two that you end up not liking, but it's better to waste money on 2 meters of fabric that you never use then to have a jacket made that you never wear or dislike. For solids, you should be looking at greys/blues/browns so that's not really too difficult, worse case should be something not the exact shade you thought it was. If you wear suits outside of the "normal" colors, then you may want to get your own there too.

I have never, ever, in my life been in a situation where I have had the opportunity to buy cloth. Where do you people do this?
post #18679 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post


I have never, ever, in my life been in a situation where I have had the opportunity to buy cloth. Where do you people do this?

 

The person you just replied to is a treasure trove of cloth.

He is THE man on SF. 

post #18680 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I have never, ever, in my life been in a situation where I have had the opportunity to buy cloth. Where do you people do this?

Besides (me smile.gif) the buying and selling subforum here (and in this thread you'll see special run offerings), minnis sells direct (https://www.hfwltd.com), there are a few other huddersfield mills that sell direct, these guys have a nice variety https://www.scotweb.co.uk some Irish mills etc. A simple search on Google or the buying and selling forum will probably get you more fabric options then you need.
post #18681 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I sometimes wish I could take the swatch with me home and look at it for a few weeks but I haven't dared suggest that to my tailor. This has also been a reason for not using traveling tailors; I just can't make up my mind quickly enough.
Most tailors are happy to get the merchant to deliver sample swatches for client perusal. For a traveling tailor, you could check out his books in person (or on internet sites) for possible ideas and have him follow up with a mailing. After all, it he's not coming back with a fitting for four months, a few extra weeks to make a decision shouldn't be a problem.
post #18682 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

I have never, ever, in my life been in a situation where I have had the opportunity to buy cloth. Where do you people do this?

See above mention of Ed, I've bought cloth from him a number of times and am always pleased. 80% of my pants are from Panta and those have never failed either. Ed has a good eye and a depth of knowledge whom I trust to find things that are never going to show up in my city.

I have done the mills but never found those to be what I expected unless I have been there in person which is difficult at best.
post #18683 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

crazy.gif

 

You gotta live a little.  Crescent pockets wouldn't be ideal with a plain fabric imo, but they seem pretty subtle on patterned tweed.

post #18684 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

You gotta live a little.

Live a little in a Duke & Dutchess of Windsor Sotheby's catalog?
post #18685 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

I'd go with crescent-shaped jetted pockets, especially with a tweed fabric named "moon."

 

 

 

Too precious

post #18686 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

This just arrived. Two meters of fluffy 14oz goodness.


Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

To be honest I have no idea. Got it from Yorkshire Fabrics, who AFAIK are simply merchants. Feels like shetland. It'll probably snag like crazy. Not dense at all. Been looking for years for the perfect brown tweed with green and red/orange, and went bonkers when I saw it. Should've ordered a sample but I'm glad I took a chance.

Just ordered a bunch of samples from them including the above, thanks to you.
post #18687 of 19918
You'll love it.
post #18688 of 19918

looks similar to this, which I am excited to pass off to be made up in a few weeks in time for late fall/winter. 10% vicuna, first experience with that, not entirely convinced its worthwhile, but the price was right for end of bolt piece.

 

post #18689 of 19918

Interesting conversation about pocket "bulk". My shooting jacket commission with Steed will have flapped bellows pockets at the hip, which I would think (haven't seen 'em yet) would be pretty bulky. The rest of inventory is 90% flapped welt pockets, with one patch pocketed jacket and a couple of suits with jetted pockets. Unlike @dieworkwear, I generally dislike patch pockets.

post #18690 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

My shooting jacket commission with Steed will have flapped bellows pockets at the hip, which I would think (haven't seen 'em yet) would be pretty bulky.

Could be that Edwin thinks I already have fat hips. frown.gif
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