or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1237

post #18541 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

What about a woolen flannel? I don't know, I am still quite enamored with the idea, although I'm probably going to get it as a blazer suit combo. I like brown tweeds but I want something softer and less scratchy looking/feeling.

I'd be interested in a rerun of either of the brown frescos in any case.

The difference between worsted and woolen is pretty small in this case. If a plain brown, worsted flannel SC is going to look bad, going woolen isn't going to radically change it.

There are fuzzier hopsacks out there, if you want that sort of texture. Something with a cashmere blend and chunkier weave will prob be a little fuzzier.

There are also softer tweeds out there. Fox's tweeds aren't particularly prickly.
post #18542 of 19895

Fox's tweed are more flannels than anything, although I guess yes they are technically tweeds. Still, I'm looking for something in a solid or solid-like pattern, as in the photos I posted above as inspiration.

 

Why do you think a plain brown flannel would look bad? Do you not like the photos posted up there? I quite like them, and as I said before, I don't see particularly why if the fresco works in Vox's photo, it wouldn't work with flannel. I know it's different, but I feel like there's enough textural difference, and you can make enough styling choices to make it okay.  In any case I was planning to use it as a blazersuit so at worst I'll wear it as a suit, but of course I want one that has enough use alone, and not just as a suit since I don't wear suits that much.

 

My issue with hopsacks and such is that it feels more summery to me, and it does look good, just not the kind of "feel" I am going for with this jacket, I want something particularly soft and cozy feeling. A hopsack just somehow looks, to me, more active and "sporty", like you're about to go on a yatch or some spring picnic, or country club, idk if you follow. There's something more "personal" to flannel, like you're ready to sit down somewhere and read a book, whereas hopsack has more energy and vigour to it. I know it'd be actually insane to suggest that you can walk a dog in one fabric, but not the other, but I'm more trying to describe the vibe that the fabrics give to me.

 

That said, it could be just that the hopsacks I've seen have generally been more summery ones.

 

There's something about the way flannel's drape "shimmers" likes waves to me, there's something about the fuzz that subtly accentuates the contours of the jacket that is especially pleasing to me. Like the variation and changes in the fabric is more gradual than in linen or fresco or some tweeds where you can pick out vaguely where bits and pieces are sticking out or changing in texture. The latter gives it more character of sorts, but I'm particularly interested in the former for this jacket.

post #18543 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Fox's tweed are more flannels than anything, although I guess yes they are technically tweeds. Still, I'm looking for something in a solid or solid-like pattern, as in the photos I posted above as inspiration. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Why do you think a plain brown flannel would look bad? Do you not like the photos posted up there? I quite like them, and as I said before, I don't see particularly why if the fresco works in Vox's photo, it wouldn't work with flannel. I know it's different, but I feel like there's enough textural difference, and you can make enough styling choices to make it okay.  In any case I was planning to use it as a blazersuit so at worst I'll wear it as a suit, but of course I want one that has enough use alone, and not just as a suit since I don't wear suits that much.

My issue with hopsacks and such is that it feels more summery to me, and it does look good, just not the kind of "feel" I am going for with this jacket, I want something particularly soft and cozy feeling. A hopsack just somehow looks, to me, more active and "sporty", like you're about to go on a yatch or some spring picnic, or country club, idk if you follow. There's something more "personal" to flannel, like you're ready to sit down somewhere and read a book, whereas hopsack has more energy and vigour to it. I know it'd be actually insane to suggest that you can walk a dog in one fabric, but not the other, but I'm more trying to describe the vibe that the fabrics give to me.

That said, it could be just that the hopsacks I've seen have generally been more summery ones.

There's something about the way flannel's drape "shimmers" likes waves to me, there's something about the fuzz that subtly accentuates the contours of the jacket that is especially pleasing to me. Like the variation and changes in the fabric is more gradual than in linen or fresco or some tweeds where you can pick out vaguely where bits and pieces are sticking out or changing in texture. The latter gives it more character of sorts, but I'm particularly interested in the former for this jacket.

Sounds like you're set on flannel. Get it if that's what you want, but just putting in my opinion that it will not look good.

There's no logical reason why plain brown Fresco is OK for a sport coat but plain brown flannel will look a little off. IMO, reducing this stuff to logical arguments (coherency, indicators of formality, and whatever else) only takes you so far. Lots of things just boil down to what looks right and what doesn't. Obviously, there's a lot of subjectiveness in that, but there you go.
post #18544 of 19895

I understand, and I definitely put weight on your experience/opinions, and I appreciate that. I'm feeling particularly attached to the idea, but I'll give it some time, and perhaps some hopsack or the like which catch my eye and I will go with that instead, or I'll just get the flannel with expectation of wearing it as a suit more than not.

post #18545 of 19895
Iso, have you looked into some of the lighter weight (350-360g) English lambswool tweeds? Almost as soft as flannel, more texture, same weight. Easily three-season and not overwhelmingly rustic if you get a plain weave or twill.
post #18546 of 19895

Do you have an suggestions for particular books? I've looked at some, and I've got a couple of patterned flannels/tweeds that are quite soft, I have a brown and cream houndstooth from Dugdale that I particularly like, but for this jacket I'm particularly keen on a solid for some reason.

post #18547 of 19895
It's too bad that Moonbeam doesn't have a solid brown. What about W Bill Phoenix WB14827? Lighter weight but the swatch looked really good in person, with the texture/weave providing enough variegation to allow for a solid brown.
Edited by Mr. Six - 7/31/16 at 5:16pm
post #18548 of 19895

Abraham Moon has some offerings that might be close to what you're after in that they are fuzzy rather than prickly.  

 

http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/lambswool-twill/#PrettyPhoto/8/

post #18549 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

It's too bad that Moonbeam doesn't have a solid brown. What about W Bill Phoenix WB14827? Lighter weight but the swatch looked really good in person, with the texture/weave providing enough variegation to allow for a solid brown.

I have a jacket in the brown/black herringbone - which resolves to brown at about a yard.  I bought a PRL jacket a few years ago that I swear is in Moonbeam, solid brown.  Same proportions of Lambswool/Angora and weight.  

post #18550 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

So, following up on previous questions of a brown jacket, I ended up preferring, shockingly, the minnis brown flannel, or some kind of 10-12oz worsted flannel (looking into VBC with my tailor atm).

I came upon this photo:

 


To set the record straight, Vox is wearing a Minnis fresco (518 - I believe). The photo is atypical because it was taken in bright daylight. It was so dark that the Slewfoot fresco was made as a lighter shade as an alternative. As proof, here is a link to the picture back in 2010.

https://stulenstil.wordpress.com/2010/12/06/1594/

The Slewfoot fresco was made in 2012. The DWW fresco after that.
post #18551 of 19895
@Isolation, the main problem w/ a flannel sport coat, imo, is that you can't wear it w/ gray flannels.  This would be particularly bad for a dark brown, winter sport coat, imo, since gray flannels would probably be its most natural mate.  
 
Hopsack imo is a work/workhorse fabric, rather than "sporty."  If you want a dark brown sport coat to cuddle up and read a book with, I'd go with corduroy or velvet. You could even get one of the cotton/cashmere blends for maximum coziness. I have a velvet one and like it a lot.  Here's a kind of crappy pic of it. There's a better one of it w/o tie in one of the old meetup threads.
 
 
If you go with tweed, as others have recommended, check out Breanish.  If you really want flannel, you might look for the most heathered, woolen flannel you can find and, ideally, prewash the fabric in warm water using shampoo and, if you really want to make it soft, conditioner.  That will shrink it, soften it, make it a bit more wind-resistant, and give a boucle-like texture.  At least it did for the one flannel sport coat I have:
post #18552 of 19895

I plan on wearing it with cream flannels jeans, and very light gray flannels. Why would brown flannel go poorly with gray flannel trousers? I'm not sure, I already wear blue flannel blazers with gray flannel trousers after all.

 

I did consider corduroy, however, but I don't like how it drapes, at least for this project, unfortunately.

post #18553 of 19895
IMG-20160603-WA0000_zpsk4ebsnfe.jpg

Hmmm, this is brown flannel worn with grey flannel trousers.
So this sucks?
I didn't quite find it incongruous when I wore it though.
Shirt is light blue.
post #18554 of 19895
I wouldn't go as far as to say "it sucks." I just think it would be better if it were in a different material.
post #18555 of 19895

Oops, I meant to give the thumbs up to DWW, not TM.  Iow it's a nice pic, but I'd prefer a different fabric.  Isolation makes a good point though -- I too wear a navy flannel blazer w/ gray flannels.    In my case and in TM's above, the pants are heathered and the jacket is flat.  Also, my pants are woolen and my jacket is worsted.  So, I guess a flat, worsted flannel worn with a heathered, woolen one wouldn't be that bad.  But again, as DWW and others have said, there are better options.

 

@poorsod, thanks for that.  I was thinking it was the regular dark brown fresco.  And I agree that that pic isn't very representative of the color.  I have a blazersuit from that old fresco.  Here's a pic of the jacket w/ what I think is a more representative color:

More pics in TweedyProf/Mr. Six's Five Jackets/Ten ties thread.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread