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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1226

post #18376 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Anyone have thoughts on solid brown sportcoats?

Because of my stubborn obsession with using dugdale (don't want to deviate from what works for me I guess), I've now narrowed down on the following: 

http://dugdalebros.com/cloth-ranges/luxury-flannel-and-cashmere-jacketing-bunch-147/



6920



6921



6906


http://dugdalebros.com/cloth-ranges/super-120s-and-cashmere-bunch-203/



1320

So the 6906 seems tempting to me, 100% cashmere you know and all, but firstly I'm not sure if I want an overly warm and potentially less durable jacket.

The 1320 is 10oz (and also cheaper) and I'm actually tempted to think the less luxurious option (and one not designed for jacketting specifically) might be better, but I think it's less textured so whereas the flannel/cashmere end-on-end/birdseye looking thing would be fine for a jacket maybe this one less so? I feel like in this color it'd still be fine, and I think it'd be a bit more hardwearing and versatile in 10oz wool than in flannel. That said I don't actually know the weight for the other fabrics, I'm looking to hear back from them.

This is one of the pictures I've seen that somewhat indicates what I want, though I am less keen on specifically flannel. I'm also considering minnis brown flannel fwiw, will be hoping to see some in person. I'm probably looking to get something made very similar design wise, but 2 patch instead of 3.



Check out the w bill donegal book or porter Harding for a brown sport coat material. The selections above suck, and that's bottom line because Lord Superb said so!
post #18377 of 19896

Loro Piana has my favorite brown jacketing at present. Really beautiful shades, textures and patterns. Don't know names of the books but they are in sample books, not on the cards.

post #18378 of 19896

Thank you for that. Yeah I think I'd quite like basketweave/hopsack, actually. I'll ask my tailor for recommendations, but any other books I should look into for that? I think I'd quite like a chocolate-bitter chocolate shade. I'll look up Loro Piana, but I hope it's not too expensive =P

 

Can't find any jacketting like that from Harrisons/WBill/Porter Harding, have no idea which books to be looking at though, so just using merinobros.

post #18379 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 

The see thru factor is inevitable with this color cloth. Before anyone orders cream trousers I ask how they feel about the see thru issue because there is no way around it. Lining doesn't help that much.


I'm considering something very similar actually, so was hoping to follow up quickly. Why would lining not help much in terms of a see through factor? If I go through with getting the ones I am looking to have made, I was worried about see through being an issue so was going to have them lined to the knee (or drop lining?) in the front and back. Are you saying that would not really help?

Thanks for any insights!

post #18380 of 19896

The Loro Piana is reasonably priced and worth it.  There is also a nice mid brown mini barleycorn in the W Bill Phoenix book. Have made up several of them. Easy to wear and accessorize. mid weight cloth.

 

The trouser has to be lined with white lining that is also transparent, it is very very hard to avoid the see thru element of cream trousers.  Where the lining stops you will see a variation of color thru the cloth. Full lining defeats the purpose of a light weight summer cloth. You really have to not care.

post #18381 of 19896

I'll see if my tailor stocks the Loro Piana. If you figure out which book it's from or how I could find it, I'd highly appreciate it! What weaves are they in? I think I'd quite like a hopsack after all.

post #18382 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I'll see if my tailor stocks the Loro Piana. If you figure out which book it's from or how I could find it, I'd highly appreciate it! What weaves are they in? I think I'd quite like a hopsack after all.

It sounds like you intend on making a brown hopsack jacket for fall winter. This won't end well. Check out the w bill donegal collection or porter Harding Glen royal there is a nice brown herringbone.
post #18383 of 19896

Loro Piana Jackets and Denim Collezione 641

 

Loro Piana Jackets and Trousers Collezione 627

 

These are beautiful cloths, rich, deep colors and all have a soft hand. 

 

 

If you want rustic or tweedy, look elsewhere

 

The Loro Piana brown hopsack I am currently making up is sold out.

post #18384 of 19896

Oh that is a pity, do they remake them usually, or does it depend? Anyway thanks for that I'll talk to my tailor to see if he has any of them.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


It sounds like you intend on making a brown hopsack jacket for fall winter. This won't end well. Check out the w bill donegal collection or porter Harding Glen royal there is a nice brown herringbone.
 
Ah, not for the dead of winter, more like early winter and maybe the colder moments of spring, and all of autumn. I suppose, as a "transitional weather" casual jacket. I have some nice tweeds already for the colder months, want something more casual and "lighter" and more relaxed in feel, weight, and style.

 

 

Does the cream trouser issue go away with heavier flannels? I am having a pair made from Fox. Hope that'll be okay. It's the lighter worsted ones though. I have a pair from worsted cloth before, and I asked my tailor to stitch a button at the bottom of the pockets so I can fold it up to the waistband so it's not seen. Otherwise I might just have fake pockets with no actual pocket in them. 

 

Also, I wonder what the objection is with the 6906 above? It's from a jacketing book and is cashmere. Feel like the pattern gives enough variation in color that it'd work well as a jacket. I was considering that quite heavily. I thought it wouldn't be too dissimilar from the barcleycorn suggested earlier, for instance, so would appreciate thoughts on that.

post #18385 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The see thru factor is inevitable with this color cloth. Before anyone orders cream trousers I ask how they feel about the see thru issue because there is no way around it. Lining doesn't help that much.
@Despos, which reinforces my point that if I had worked with you instead of cheaping out on internet MTM, you would have steered me clear of this mistake. I have learned the time-honored lesson that the cheap man pays the most in the end.
post #18386 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Does the cream trouser issue go away with heavier flannels? I am having a pair made from Fox. Hope that'll be okay. It's the lighter worsted ones though. I have a pair from worsted cloth before, and I asked my tailor to stitch a button at the bottom of the pockets so I can fold it up to the waistband so it's not seen. Otherwise I might just have fake pockets with no actual pocket in them. 

I have a W. Bill Donegal jacket. IIRC, it's something like a 12/13 tweed. Very wearable in fall/ early winter, and I don't live in a particularly cold climate (Bay Area, which is in Northern California).

Agree with the comments above -- birdseye flannel is strictly for suits; flannel in general is better for suits than sport coats; hopsack is a better alternative; and tweed is my favorite of all the aforementioned options for fall/ winter jacketing.
post #18387 of 19896
Someone answer the more important question of 12oz vs 14oz Minnis flannel.
post #18388 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Someone answer the more important question of 12oz vs 14oz Minnis flannel.

 

The 12Oz holds good crease. The 14Oz is not bad either.

 

Created this small video to show the crease on a 14.5 Oz fabric with a 10 pound iron. When the tailor irons for a crease on pants, the pressure and style is different, resulting in a sharper crease.

 

post #18389 of 19896
Just had a pair of trousers finished in the W Bill cream linen. Chose it over the Harrison's linen as it is a somewhat tighter weave thereby reducing the see through factor of an unlined summer trouser.

Tend to agree, however, that you have to not care too much, and just avoid pairing with dark undies...!
post #18390 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

its a Italian donegal tweed that I used but am out of. Have this now, not as tight of a weave as the above and scratchier, like a harris tweed, and more color variation in the specks




Hi, I see that last year you posted this fabric that you used instead of your original fabric for a pair of pants. Do you know the name of your replacement fabric? I bought some from hancocks fabric, but they are now closed down. I am looking to order online, but I have no information on the fabric.
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