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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1221

post #18301 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

Dieworkwear,
It looks nice on the dummy.
Does it look that good on you?

Yes, just on another dummy.
post #18302 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Yes, just on another dummy.

Will you be showing it on the other dummy?

They sure did a very nice job with the flaps.
post #18303 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

FWIW, Glenroyal 44535 isn't a true Russell check. It's a play off the Prince of Wales check.

P&H Hartwist 32136 is a true Russell check. It's a little lighter/ more beige than 32137, which is darker/ more golden. I find the 32137 version easier to wear, but if you prefer the lighter color, Alsport also has something similar in 2403.

I have a sport coat in the Hartwist 32137. Photos from my tailor:



Many thanks for this most useful information.

I had neglected the Hartwist 32137 because it is flagged as “low stock” on the site, only two metres left. Would that be enough for a coat, especially considering the complex pattern? It does look very good.

The Alsport 32403 is out of stock, alas. There is no picture on the site.

Again, thank you.
post #18304 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog in Suit View Post

Many thanks for this most useful information.

I had neglected the Hartwist 32137 because it is flagged as “low stock” on the site, only two metres left. Would that be enough for a coat, especially considering the complex pattern? It does look very good.

The Alsport 32403 is out of stock, alas. There is no picture on the site.

Again, thank you.

I imagine only your tailor would know. FWIW, I send two meters to my tailor for sport coats (even ones with patterns). I'm 5'10", 145lbs, and measure 37" across the chest. It does leave little room for error, however. Recently had to get the sleeves redone on a jacket and had to get more fabric from the mill. Fortunately, they still have some, but it would have been a problem if they didn't.

Fox had some Russell tweed back in 2014. I don't know if they still do. You can send them a note to ask though.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90
post #18305 of 20318
candy shoppe coloured
reid and taylor (scotland)
shetland tweed

an old
slubby hopsack
off white
italian silk jacketing

a vintage slubby herringbone
wool/cashmere/mohair
heavy overcoating
from loro piana

14178ue.jpg


a better view
of teh silk

5n682c.jpg

if i;m lucky
gennaro paone
can have it made
so i can get
some use from
it this season
post #18306 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I imagine only your tailor would know. FWIW, I send two meters to my tailor for sport coats (even ones with patterns). I'm 5'10", 145lbs, and measure 37" across the chest. It does leave little room for error, however. Recently had to get the sleeves redone on a jacket and had to get more fabric from the mill. Fortunately, they still have some, but it would have been a problem if they didn't.

Fox had some Russell tweed back in 2014. I don't know if they still do. You can send them a note to ask though.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

Many thanks for your advice. I have e-mailed my tailor. I have not seen any Russell checks on the Fox website.
I shall keep you posted.
post #18307 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post


5n682c.jpg
 

 

That silk :inlove:

post #18308 of 20318
If I am a 54/44L and I have 2.5 yards (2.3 meters) of a glen check cloth, is a tailor going to have an issue? Same question for 2.25 yards (2.1 meters). Tailor in Naples that usually does self facing on the inside of the chest, patch hips, barchetta chest if that matters. I don't really care if they have to finish the inside differently, so long as shoulder and patch pockets pattern matching is not impaired. Thanks
post #18309 of 20318
I have a larger chest measurement than you and a long torso (short legs). 2.3m is about the minimum for me-- 2.5m is more comfortable.

It varies by tailor, though. I have one to whom I gave 5m for a 2pc suit-- decided against a vest, otherwise it would have been 4.5m-- and he apologized for not being able to supply a second set of trousers unless I went without cuffs. Another house would have needed 7m to make all that possible.
post #18310 of 20318
Depends on how much work your tailor want to do smile.gif I am 6' 3", 46 (euro 56) and my tailor asks for 3.4 meters for a 2 piece suit, 4.5 for 2 pants (although one will be non-cuffed). It will be more difficult to do the pattern matching if the plaids are rather big. Normally, 2.3 meters should be sufficiently enough for a SC.
post #18311 of 20318
Fantastic New Yorker article about Davide Taub's work (Gieves and Hawkes):

http://www.newyorker.com/business/currency/the-suit-that-couldnt-be-copied?mbid=rss
post #18312 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

Fantastic New Yorker article about Davide Taub's work (Gieves and Hawkes):

http://www.newyorker.com/business/currency/the-suit-that-couldnt-be-copied?mbid=rss

Thanks for sharing.

I really don't like the writer and the way that he wrote this article.

1. If his intention was really to try and copy a bespoke G&H suit, certainly going to a sub-par tailor isn't going to accomplish that. I understand there were budgetary constraints, but if he had considered a tailor in HK it would have been possible to achieve his goal.
2. The writer doesn't seem to have enough experience or knowledge about tailoring to write about it intelligently.
3. His characterization of Davide, while showing him elegantly in some sections, overall is just awkward, such as the section about tipping.
post #18313 of 20318
I take your point, but ultimately I think Davide Taub came out of it pretty well. And having met him, I'd say it is a fairly accurate portrayal of his personality.
post #18314 of 20318
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage View Post

candy shoppe coloured
reid and taylor (scotland)
shetland tweed

an old
slubby hopsack
off white
italian silk jacketing

a vintage slubby herringbone
wool/cashmere/mohair
heavy overcoating
from loro piana

14178ue.jpg


a better view
of teh silk

5n682c.jpg

if i;m lucky
gennaro paone
can have it made
so i can get
some use from
it this season

 

This silk is outstanding. I'm looking for something similar in order to have made a summer dinner jacket "a la Attolini".

 

 

In southern climates, if you want to wear a jacket in a night party, this has to be very lightweight and with a porous cloth.

 

BTW, would you recommend a lightweight navy mohair as a paired trousers? Any other suggestion? 

post #18315 of 20318

Dear Guys,

its my second post here (after introduction), few days ago I bought real vintage suit.

I make my little investigation about it, however couldnt find any information.

Do not have pics (yet), will post em at the evening.

 

Its striped suit, blazer with two buttons and high waisted trousers.

Polyester lining, trousers have Talon steel button (just quick one, do not know the name if this item).

Its handmade, I can see tacks all over, pretty decent must admit.

There is no brand of any tag, but its made of wool called Picaso Paradise 24 Carat England.

Do You know something about this fabric??

 

Waiting for support, best Regards Tom

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