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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1207

post #18091 of 19897

Hi,

 

I had placed an order for a suit in the VBC perennial navy birdseye (320g) fabric for an upcoming wedding. 

 

http://www.vitalebarberiscanonico.com/fabrics/suits/307/perennial-birdrsquos-eye

 

Now it turns out that the fabric is sold out, and I have to look at other options. The shop didn't have alot of swatches with birdseye so I'm considering ordering without seeing the fabric IRL.

 

I have looked at the Harrison P&B fine classics 47533 and 47551.

http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/harrisons-of-edinburgh/p-b-fine-classics

 

I was after something a bit more blue than navy, has anybody seen these fabrics IRL. I want something like this tonewise:

 

 


Edited by Tenzing - 6/7/16 at 11:34am
post #18092 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Then why come to this board and constantly ask questions?



Hi
post #18093 of 19897
Another (very poor) photo from my fitting with Guida a couple of weeks ago. It was the first (and only) fitting for this suit, and I was very happy with it. Obviously, if something needs adjustment afterwards he's very happy to do so, which he did on my first commission.



I have to say I'm quite surprised by some people's opinion of him based on a photo. As has been mentioned, he has quite a belly which probably hasn't diminished since the suit was cut, but come on – the guy started apprenticing when he was 10, and now he's in his sixties (I guess), has worked years for Liverano (check the photo of him from the write up that was done on Liverano a couple of years ago) and has won the golden shears.
post #18094 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

There are tons of pictures of Guida suits on Torsten Grunwald's blog - the journal of style. The fits look fine to me if nothing special. As a stylistic matter, the poofy shoulders look ridiculous to me. I can't imagine anyone wearing them in a business context, but that's just a personal preference.

 

I see your point, but interesting comment coming from a Cifonelli customer, with a shoulder that is no less unique

post #18095 of 19897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

That's a little odd, given that they make the 9-10oz Wheat and Sand...

But it's never been available in the lighter weight. I always wondered why. THat's why for a tan summer suit I had to get leser tropical. Perhaps there is some reason it just can't be done in the lighter weight?
post #18096 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

I see your point, but interesting comment coming from a Cifonelli customer, with a shoulder that is no less unique

Sure - its obviously personal preference. Although I'm not sure I agree on the "unique" aspect. The appearance created by Le Cigarette (if that is the aspect you are talking about) is pretty consistent with Savile Row roping on a Gieves & Hawkes suit by Davide Taub or a Chittleborough & Morgan Suit by Michael Browne or a Nutter/Sexton suit (even if the effect is caused by something very, very different the look is still similar). And the pagoda shoulder is done in italy as well as by some of the Savile row tailors above. Neither of those are unique to Cifonelli. I'd also note that there are many, many styles of Cifo jacket that have neither le cigarette nor the concave shoulder but the still look very "Cifonelli" (to me at least) because of the way that they fit through the chest, the unique details and the way that the suit moves with the wearer (for lack of a better term). Now, there might be tons of examples of those poofy shoulders in the Guida suit at other tailors. I just haven't seen them. Liverano has a beautiful rounding that looks very attractive to my eye, but that isn't what I see when I look at the Guida pictures in Torsten's blog. The Guida suits have a poofiness that throws off the shoulder line. So to my eye the suits look weird and lack the harmony of flowing lines that makes me think bespoke. And if someone showed up to a business meeting in one it would look funny to me. But that is just my opinion and part of the fun in selecting bespoke tailor is that you find something that works for you and you enjoy it even if others don't like your stylistic choice. That is what having personal style is all about.
post #18097 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


Sure - its obviously personal preference. Although I'm not sure I agree on the "unique" aspect. The appearance created by Le Cigarette (if that is the aspect you are talking about) is pretty consistent with Savile Row roping on a Gieves & Hawkes suit by Davide Taub or a Chittleborough & Morgan Suit by Michael Browne or a Nutter/Sexton suit (even if the effect is caused by something very, very different the look is still similar). And the pagoda shoulder is done in italy as well as by some of the Savile row tailors above. Neither of those are unique to Cifonelli. I'd also note that there are many, many styles of Cifo jacket that have neither le cigarette nor the concave shoulder but the still look very "Cifonelli" (to me at least) because of the way that they fit through the chest, the unique details and the way that the suit moves with the wearer (for lack of a better term). Now, there might be tons of examples of those poofy shoulders in the Guida suit at other tailors. I just haven't seen them. Liverano has a beautiful rounding that looks very attractive to my eye, but that isn't what I see when I look at the Guida pictures in Torsten's blog. The Guida suits have a poofiness that throws off the shoulder line. So to my eye the suits look weird and lack the harmony of flowing lines that makes me think bespoke. And if someone showed up to a business meeting in one it would look funny to me. But that is just my opinion and part of the fun in selecting bespoke tailor is that you find something that works for you and you enjoy it even if others don't like your stylistic choice. That is what having personal style is all about.

 

Agreed. If someone showed up to a meeting in 90% of the stuff that passes for stylish on this forum I would throw them out.

post #18098 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Now, there might be tons of examples of those poofy shoulders in the Guida suit at other tailors. I just haven't seen them. Liverano has a beautiful rounding that looks very attractive to my eye, but that isn't what I see when I look at the Guida pictures in Torsten's blog. The Guida suits have a poofiness that throws off the shoulder line. So to my eye the suits look weird and lack the harmony of flowing lines that makes me think bespoke. And if someone showed up to a business meeting in one it would look funny to me. But that is just my opinion and part of the fun in selecting bespoke tailor is that you find something that works for you and you enjoy it even if others don't like your stylistic choice. That is what having personal style is all about.

I can see what you mean about poofiness at the earlier posted photo of the double breasted, but really I think it's due to his stance. And Guida's default shoulder construction doesn't contain ANY padding. And to be fait, in other photos I don't see the poofiness:




I've seen the latter suit irl and it looked really stunning. On my own suit the shoulders are also completely clean...
post #18099 of 19897
And for proof of my own (once again sorry for the quality and lack of footwear):

AppleMark
post #18100 of 19897
^ I'm not so sure. Here is another picture of the same suit that shows the poof:



And here is another suit altogether that shows the poof:



Maybe it only happens with certain movements but I want to like the way my suit looks even when I'm not standing still. Again - just me, but I flat don't like it.
post #18101 of 19897
In the first photo I can see no poof at all, in the second photo I can see a very uneven standing which shows the bone of the left shoulder because the padding is only a peace of canvas. I might be blind, but I just think you're all making a lot of fuss about a non-issue (the PA f*cked shoulder of NSM suits comes to mind)...
post #18102 of 19897

I'm inclined to agree. What seemed quite egregious in the first picture (poofy fro guy) seems far less so in the others I've seen. Though, in any event, if it's a look that doesn't suit you, you're not likely to be dramatically swayed off that stance, which is perfectly fair...it is your money, after all.

 

On another note (and back to the thread lol) does anybody know why Minnis does not offer a cream/white flannel?

 

Similarly, I'd love to see such a shade in the 10/11 oz Fresco, but that's wishful thinking.

post #18103 of 19897
I think it's just an element of house style.

post #18104 of 19897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

That's a little odd, given that they make the 9-10oz Wheat and Sand...

Seems like the reasin is that the yarns are diffferent for 8/9.  Two ply (warp or weft, but not both iirc) for 10 oz and single, high twist for 8/9.  

 

The 10 oz sand color has some very nice heathing, imo.  I would be happy with less heatherning, but probably not no heathering.  

 

Really I'm just looking for a wrinkle-resistant, dressy alternative to linen in a natural, oatmeal color.  Fresco would be great, but I'd be happy with tropical wool if it was the right color and had some heathering.  A poly blend (50-80 wool) would be fine by me as well.  If anyone has any recommendations pls. let me/us know.

post #18105 of 19897
Smith Finmeresco (9oz and 12oz) might have your color. The 12oz is softer than the 10oz Fresco, which might make it more comfortable in heat. YMMV.

Also, the Dugdale New Fine Worsted allegedly has a bit of Fresco's twist, with more of the Lesser urbanity. There were some slightly mixed reviews on this thread, but it is still probably worth a look.
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