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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1204

post #18046 of 19895

Does anyone have firsthand experience of using Sartoria Gege (Naples). I've had <5 bespoke pieces commissioned however I've definitely realised getting recommendations from non bloggers (most of whom are litearlly paid to advertise a product, and if not now then some form of discount compensation in the future)

Other then that any other italian recommendations people have to offer who they would recommend - would be grateful if you could PM if you don't want to disclose.

Predominantly interested in London travel ones or assuming they would travel if youre dropping 2 suit with them

Not interested in your dalcuores and your solitos which seem inflated (please correct me if otherwise). From my insight the former seems to now be a really commercialised operation travelleing not just u.s but asia/eu, Ive heard also the level of handwork isnt fully up to par as one would expect from the level of pricing (but again you can use the rhetoric im paying for the design)

Im in the 1.5-1.9k GBP range, which I think is adequare. Im Currently awaiting a few Guida pieces outstanding (Ex Liverano) which I believe is a solid price and handcraft is all on absolute point/bang for buck. Im particularly interested in these smaller ateliers who are not turning bespoke into a mass suit churning machine.

It seems a lot of these high IG/social media rep places the person most likely doing your garments will be the apprentice tailor so you really are paying for a name. Not saying it won't be good.

post #18047 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

Not interested in your dalcuores and your solitos which seem inflated (please correct me if otherwise). From my insight the former seems to now be a really commercialised operation travelleing not just u.s but asia/eu, Ive heard also the level of handwork isnt fully up to par as one would expect from the level of pricing (but again you can use the rhetoric im paying for the design)

I don't know what you mean by inflated, but Solito is one of the most affordable operations among traveling tailors. Things may be different if you can travel to Naples on a regular basis, but even many of the non-traveling outfits there charge more than Solito.

Handwork can be nice, but I think you're better off focusing on getting a tailor who can make a jacket that looks good and fits well. TBH, anyone can send a jacket to some lady for topstitching.
post #18048 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knox View Post

Anybody know of a source for Indian madras cloth? Solid navy.

Was browsing this site and found they sell a line of solid-colored Madras shirts (including navy)

http://www.industryofallnations.com/Madras-Shirts-at-Industry-of-CID275.aspx

Not really crazy about the skimpy collars, but I thought I'd pass the link along.

FWIW, if that's the sort of thing you're looking for, you can probably just get someone to dip-dye a length of cotton for you in indigo. You can either do it yourself (there are classes and online tutorials) or hire a professional.

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/find_a_custom_dyer.shtml

This woman on Etsy also used to dye stuff in indigo for people. Looks like she's on a break, but maybe you can contact her

https://www.etsy.com/shop/FarmtownDenim?ref=unav_listing-r

French General in LA holds indigo-dyeing classes, but maybe they'll dye something for a fee

https://www.frenchgeneral.com/

Knickerbocker in NYC does the same

http://knickerbockermfg.co/products/indigo-dying-workshop
post #18049 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Was browsing this site and found they sell a line of solid-colored Madras shirts (including navy)

http://www.industryofallnations.com/Madras-Shirts-at-Industry-of-CID275.aspx

Not really crazy about the skimpy collars, but I thought I'd pass the link along.

FWIW, if that's the sort of thing you're looking for, you can probably just get someone to dip-dye a length of cotton for you in indigo. You can either do it yourself (there are classes and online tutorials) or hire a professional.

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/find_a_custom_dyer.shtml

This woman on Etsy also used to dye stuff in indigo for people. Looks like she's on a break, but maybe you can contact her

https://www.etsy.com/shop/FarmtownDenim?ref=unav_listing-r

French General in LA holds indigo-dyeing classes, but maybe they'll dye something for a fee

https://www.frenchgeneral.com/

Knickerbocker in NYC does the same

http://knickerbockermfg.co/products/indigo-dying-workshop

 

@mossrockss just posted one a few day ago he did himself on the WAYWRN Casual thread, and even posted a link to the dye he bought. His shirt looks great. He started with a light blue shirt for your reference. 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253842/waywrn-classic-menswear-casual-style/21255#post_8457877

 

DL-

post #18050 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

@mossrockss
 just posted one a few day ago he did himself on the WAYWRN Casual thread, and even posted a link to the dye he bought. His shirt looks great. He started with a light blue shirt for your reference. 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253842/waywrn-classic-menswear-casual-style/21255#post_8457877

DL-

That looks pretty good.

@mossrockss, with something like that, do you get crocking? (Ie indigo bleeding).
post #18051 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

@mossrockss
 just posted one a few day ago he did himself on the WAYWRN Casual thread, and even posted a link to the dye he bought. His shirt looks great. He started with a light blue shirt for your reference. 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253842/waywrn-classic-menswear-casual-style/21255#post_8457877

DL-

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

That looks pretty good.

@mossrockss, with something like that, do you get crocking? (Ie indigo bleeding).

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with it. I grew up in rural northeast Indiana—Amish country—and when the shirt dried after I was finished dipping, I was really worried because it almost looked like the blue color the Amish use in their homemade, super-stiff cotton shirts with snap-up fronts. But it's not quite that, thankfully. Any lighter would definitely resemble the Amish Blue. I can always dip again if I want, too.

Anyway to answer your question, even after rinsing it thoroughly after the oxidization process, the color was coming off on my hands straight out of the first wash on cold. I washed it again in hot water, and no more color bleed while wet. The pic of it under my sportcoat is after two washes in hot water. My primary use for this shirt will be casually, sleeves rolled, untucked, when it's hot and humid. I will probably hold off on wearing it under my SCs until I'm sure it won't bleed. I have a chambray from Eidos that gives me the dark-sportshirt-under-navy-blazer look in the meantime.
post #18052 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I don't know what you mean by inflated, but Solito is one of the most affordable operations among traveling tailors. Things may be different if you can travel to Naples on a regular basis, but even many of the non-traveling outfits there charge more than Solito.

Handwork can be nice, but I think you're better off focusing on getting a tailor who can make a jacket that looks good and fits well. TBH, anyone can send a jacket to some lady for topstitching.
This is exactly what I mean though. Where have You got this conception solito is reasonably priced- it's a good price yes but for example the ones that I mentioned

Gege, tofani and the florentine one (guida) which I'm using personally I can be 100%certain blows anything at the price point out the water. I'm willing to post pics from my baste soon.

If you go bespoke and are worried about fit then you are incompetent personally or are choosing a non Italian cut. Florentine or neopolitan don't think you can go wrong with the fit in general.
post #18053 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

If you go bespoke and are worried about fit then you are incompetent personally or are choosing a non Italian cut.
Only Italian cuts are good fits? Sorry, I'm not sure what you meant by this part of your quote
Also - why would having a bad fit make you an incompetent person?
post #18054 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post


This is exactly what I mean though. Where have You got this conception solito is reasonably priced- it's a good price yes but for example the ones that I mentioned

Gege, tofani and the florentine one (guida) which I'm using personally I can be 100%certain blows anything at the price point out the water. I'm willing to post pics from my baste soon.

If you go bespoke and are worried about fit then you are incompetent personally or are choosing a non Italian cut. Florentine or neopolitan don't think you can go wrong with the fit in general.

This is most assuredly not the case, though I do feel it should be.

post #18055 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Only Italian cuts are good fits? Sorry, I'm not sure what you meant by this part of your quote
Also - why would having a bad fit make you an incompetent person?
if you spend 2000 quid /3k usd on a suit which adds nothing for confidence or looks then it's objectively a waste of money

Meant the Italian fit cut in terms of slimness and the fact they are known to fit to your body shape
post #18056 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

If you go bespoke and are worried about fit then you are incompetent personally or are choosing a non Italian cut. Florentine or neopolitan don't think you can go wrong with the fit in general.

This is great and I look forward to seeing how this ends.
post #18057 of 19895

hello, I am looking to commission my second SC in Naples - first one was a classic VBC hopsack 2PP and 3/2 buttoning.

for this next one I am looking for a more winter weight around 350-400gr and wanted something in green (or rust) with some pattern (evtl windowpane).

would you guys have any good suggestion?

 

many thanks

post #18058 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

if you spend 2000 quid /3k usd on a suit which adds nothing for confidence or looks then it's objectively a waste of money

Meant the Italian fit cut in terms of slimness and the fact they are known to fit to your body shape

dng922 - thanks for all these posts. It appears that you are looking for advice on specific italian tailors. Just a word of advice - right now you are posting in the "unfunded liabilities" thread, which is generally about cloth. People here sometimes talk about tailors, but it is usually in relation to specific clothes or types of clothes rather than differentiating between various tailors. Based on your posts, I think your comments would be more suitable for the "I don't have any clue what I'm talking about" thread. Again - this is cloth.
post #18059 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post


This is exactly what I mean though. Where have You got this conception solito is reasonably priced- it's a good price yes but for example the ones that I mentioned

Gege, tofani and the florentine one (guida) which I'm using personally I can be 100%certain blows anything at the price point out the water. I'm willing to post pics from my baste soon.

If you go bespoke and are worried about fit then you are incompetent personally or are choosing a non Italian cut. Florentine or neopolitan don't think you can go wrong with the fit in general.

 

You are so wrong!

 

A good fitting suit should cost at least $5000!

 

A prohibitive price point is the only thing that will ensure you are working with a reputable and experienced tailor who knows what they are doing. Anyone charging beneath this price point is obviously an incapable tailor who doesn't know anything and so they have to charge cheap prices to lure in unsuspecting uneducated idiot customers who think they are getting a top-quality suit at a good deal.

post #18060 of 19895
Lmao I'm like lmao. Let me guess You're the same kind of guy who thinks single pleats are hideous and turnups are ugly.

So all those local Italians they are also paying 5k usd to use these fine tailors lmao

Delusion of this thread is hilarious
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