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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1191

post #17851 of 19906
A customer sent me this terrific cotton fabric for a sportcoat. I've never heard of the brand, don't think they are a mill but could be. Name is Eurotex, they are in Italy and they call this "silky cotton", which is a pretty apt description. Feels and drapes like a lightweight supers wool, really nice. Reaching out to them to see if they can send me some books but they obviously also sell retail:




Also, put up this inner mongolian cashmere and linen fabric on B&S

post #17852 of 19906
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

A customer sent me this terrific cotton fabric for a sportcoat. I've never heard of the brand, don't think they are a mill but could be. Name is Eurotex, they are in Italy and they call this "silky cotton", which is a pretty apt description. Feels and drapes like a lightweight supers wool, really nice. Reaching out to them to see if they can send me some books but they obviously also sell retail:




Also, put up this inner mongolian cashmere and linen fabric on B&S

 

 

BnTailor use Eurotex fabrics - I've seen a few pieces done in Eurotex seersucker

post #17853 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

BnTailor use Eurotex fabrics - I've seen a few pieces done in Eurotex seersucker

I've been actually trying to get in touch with them to see if they'll do a re-run of that navy wool seersucker.

IIRC, they're just a merchant though -- fabrics are woven through different mills.


Edited by dieworkwear - 5/22/16 at 7:14pm
post #17854 of 19906

I get solid navy seersucker, but why in wool?  Imo the ideal seersucker would be machine washable cotton or cotton/poly, like Haspel used to make.

 

Beautiful jacket.  BnTailor?

post #17855 of 19906
I like surface interest/ texture, so I'd be in for wool seersucker.
post #17856 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

I get solid navy seersucker, but why in wool?  Imo the ideal seersucker would be machine washable cotton or cotton/poly, like Haspel used to make.


You want a jacket to be machine washable? :uhoh:

post #17857 of 19906

Yeah, for summer use it's ideal. 

 

I was just googling Haspel machine wash seersucker and this old NYT article came up about machine washable suits in general.  Another, better article from the Wash Post back in 1979, an excerpt:

 

Quote:
Almost every president in the last 50 years has worn Haspel suits, for good reason - the company routinely sent them to the White Houst until Richard Nixon came to office.
post #17858 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

Yeah, for summer use it's ideal. 

 

I was just googling Haspel machine wash seersucker and this old NYT article came up about machine washable suits in general.


"Many men prefer to send their wash-and-wear suits to the dry cleaners, either because of convenience or in the belief that this increases the suit's life and gives it a crisper look. Whatever. Whether machine washed or dry cleaned, there is no question that what was once a curiosity is now a classic necessity for warm-weather wear."

 

Presumably such a suit couldn't be canvassed? And aren't pure poly or poly blend suits dreadfully hot to wear?

post #17859 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I get solid navy seersucker, but why in wool?  Imo the ideal seersucker would be machine washable cotton or cotton/poly, like Haspel used to make.

I was originally thinking about running a cotton version through HFW, but Vox said he didn't think a dark cotton would age well. I think he's right. It would probably look good for the first year or two, but after a while, the fading and spotting probably won't have the same charm as lighter colored fabrics (e.g. regular seersucker).

Simon Crompton has some nice photos of C&M's Michael Browne in a more high-contrast navy seersucker.

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/06/navy-seersucker-suit-chittleborough-morgan.html

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post #17860 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post


"Many men prefer to send their wash-and-wear suits to the dry cleaners, either because of convenience or in the belief that this increases the suit's life and gives it a crisper look. Whatever. Whether machine washed or dry cleaned, there is no question that what was once a curiosity is now a classic necessity for warm-weather wear."

Presumably such a suit couldn't be canvassed? And aren't pure poly or poly blend suits dreadfully hot to wear?

Seersucker suits and jackets were originally meant to be washable.
post #17861 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post


You want a jacket to be machine washable? uhoh.gif

If the washer machine doesn't have an agitator what harm can come to the jacket?
post #17862 of 19906

D, V's point does sound likely.  For that reason and others (quick dry, etc) I'd prefer it to be a poly blend.  Patagonia's "puckerware" is my favorite fabric for hot, humid weather.  It's a poly cotton blend, 65/35.  I'd prefer the reverse, or 50/50.  

 

If Haspel or someone else made a solid navy seersucker suit, I'd be all over it.  Actually, I'd prefer to buy the fabric and have Luxire make it for me.  So if you ever find someone to make solid navy poly-blend seersucker, pls. let me know.  We might even be able to find out who makes Patagonia's fabric for them.  They disclose all their factories online, but they don't say who makes what.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 


"Many men prefer to send their wash-and-wear suits to the dry cleaners, either because of convenience or in the belief that this increases the suit's life and gives it a crisper look. Whatever. Whether machine washed or dry cleaned, there is no question that what was once a curiosity is now a classic necessity for warm-weather wear."

 

Presumably such a suit couldn't be canvassed? And aren't pure poly or poly blend suits dreadfully hot to wear?

I would assume that too.  But I'm not sure how they were made.  I have a couple totally deconstructed cotton twill suits from Luxire and they machine wash fine.

 

Ime, poly blends are great if they have a porous weave.  I have a couple pairs of pants made of poly/wool blends, one plain weave and one like fresco, and they're extremely comfortable in hot weather, at least as comfortable as Minnis 8/9 oz pure wool fresco.  But the poly allows them to hold creases and resist wrinkles better than fresco.  Plus, it's very convenient to be able to throw the in a washing machine after a really hot, humid day.

 

Btw, I ninja-edited in a link above to a Wash Post article on Haspel that was better than the NYT one.  And here's another good article about Haspel's machine washable suits.

post #17863 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


If the washer machine doesn't have an agitator what harm can come to the jacket?


Unstructured I get. But I would imagine that soaking a suit canvas and allowing it to fold and crease at weird angles wouldn't be great for it. But I don't have any experience machine-washing suits and I'm happy to be told otherwise!

post #17864 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post


Unstructured I get. But I would imagine that soaking a suit canvas and allowing it to fold and crease at weird angles wouldn't be great for it. But I don't have any experience machine-washing suits and I'm happy to be told otherwise!

Is it better to have a seer sucker suit made to measure instead?
post #17865 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

D, V's point does sound likely. For that reason and others (quick dry, etc) I'd prefer it to be a poly blend. Patagonia's "puckerware" is my favorite fabric for hot, humid weather. It's a poly cotton blend, 65/35. I'd prefer the reverse, or 50/50.

Wait, I'm not sure I understand. Why would the poly-blend not face the same wear issues?

@jerrybrowne actually just kindly emailed me some photos of Caccioppoli's navy seersuckers. Those are a 99/ 1 cotton-poly blend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Unstructured I get. But I would imagine that soaking a suit canvas and allowing it to fold and crease at weird angles wouldn't be great for it. But I don't have any experience machine-washing suits and I'm happy to be told otherwise!

Yea, I don't get it. There's a long history of machine washable jackets, but I've never understood why that wouldn't mess up the canvassing, haircloth, padding, felt, etc inside. Wouldn't those things shrink at different rates?

It's a nice idea in concept, but I can't imagine throwing a (structured) tailored jacket in the wash.
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