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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1189

post #17821 of 19918
Can I get an opinion on something? Currently trying to get an ancient madder silk dressing gown made, much like the one seen in this old photograph of Turnbull & Asser



Unfortunately having a hard time sourcing the material -- not just because it's hard to source silk (although, there's that), but also it's doubly hard to source ancient madder. Many tie makers apparently get the stuff custom printed in panels, which obviously wouldn't work for a dressing gown. Haven't been able to find offcuts and don't want to do a custom run.

Closest I've been able to find is #4 here. Not 100% sure this would work for a dressing gown though. Thoughts? Should I just hold out for that original large paisley?

post #17822 of 19918
Hold off IMHO. Paisley on that small a scale on that big a garment will just look diseased.
post #17823 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Hold off IMHO. Paisley on that small a scale on that big a garment will just look diseased.


I'm inclined to agree. What works for a tie probably won't work for a dressing gown. In my imagination, the pattern that you ideally want would not be a tie silk pattern at all.

 

I assume you've tried places like Drake's, and the Jermyn Street shirtmakers. Maybe someone like Harry White might have some contacts.

post #17824 of 19918
I say we all take a clothing sabbotical and not purchase anything for a whole year.
post #17825 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Hold off IMHO. Paisley on that small a scale on that big a garment will just look diseased.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


I'm inclined to agree. What works for a tie probably won't work for a dressing gown. In my imagination, the pattern that you ideally want would not be a tie silk pattern at all.

I assume you've tried places like Drake's, and the Jermyn Street shirtmakers. Maybe someone like Harry White might have some contacts.

Yea, good points all around.

Those silks are actually from Drake's. Lovely patterns, but I'm not sure if they work for a dressing gown.

I think there are a few makers who sell nice ones RTW. Since the price of bespoke is oddly lower in this case, I thought I'd go that route, but maybe that's not an option.

Or maybe I'll ask Budd, who probably does this both RTW and bespoke.
post #17826 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Or maybe I'll ask Budd, who probably does this both RTW and bespoke.

 

i'm planning to be at Budd on Monday.

post #17827 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

i'm planning to be at Budd on Monday.

Wait, are you in NYC right now? I'm actually in Manhattan at the moment, but leaving Thursday morning.

Your post reminded me that they're visiting San Francisco at the end of this month. I may send them an email tomorrow to see if this is something they can do. (Thanks for the reminder!)

Edit: Er, just realized you probably mean London, which is way more exciting.
post #17828 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Wait, are you in NYC right now? I'm actually in Manhattan at the moment, but leaving Thursday morning.

Your post reminded me that they're visiting San Francisco at the end of this month. I may send them an email tomorrow to see if this is something they can do. (Thanks for the reminder!)

Edit: Er, just realized you probably mean London, which is way more exciting.

 

Yes, I leave for London Thursday evening. Going to see the folks at Budd on Monday. Budd will be in San Francisco Memorial Day weekend (while I'll still be in London). I'll also be seeing Edwin and Matthew on Tuesday in Savile Row.

post #17829 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by etostano View Post

Last time I visited Ercole in Brooklyn, Frank had a jacket length on the shelf

Any chance you could hook me up with him? I live in London. Or can I just email him to ask him to sell it to me? Since I'm not a client, I'm not sure he would just sell me the cloth...
post #17830 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by parkman24 View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@emptym thanks for the mention!

The jacket is Ring Jacket that was purchased from TheArmouryNYC

https://thearmoury.com/catalogs/artisans/ring-jacket/ring-jacket-water-linen-sport-coat-tan-prince-of-wales

I believe it was Prince of Wales water linen. Hope this helps!

 

Thanks, that is helpful.  It's at least a source for the source of the fabric.  I like how it looks in your pics better than those of the Armoury.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Absolutely not. IRL it's almost translucent.

 

I'm sure I read somewhere an explanation of why cloth weights don't use the same conversion factors as standard imperial/metric.

 

I think it has something to do with the standard width of a metric vs. imperial bolt. Anyway, you are right in one respect: 7.5oz in avoirdupois weight is equal to about 212g metric, not 240g.

 

But when it comes to cloth weights, all bets are off and you have to start sacrificing virgins to get the correct figures.

Very interesting.  Maybe I'm crazy.  Or maybe it's just relative.  I was comparing it to the green Zegna, and similar fabrics with a very open, textured weave.  And in that comparison the Drapers seemed pretty flat, two-dimensional, and tightly woven.  Of course, I could just be mis-remembering, but I've looked at it on at least three occasions.  How would you compare it to the Minnis lightweight, high-twist fresco?  The weave and texture, aren't entirely disadvantages, btw.  Imo, they make the fabric better suited to a suit, like you got, than a jacket, which is what I was looking for.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I think oz should be per yard and gram should be per meter not to mix imprerial and metric.  1 meter = 1.09361 yard.  7.5 oz per yard is 233 g per meter which is closer to 240 g. 

That makes sense.  Thanks to you and Cox.

post #17831 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

[re: Draper 2421]

Very interesting.  Maybe I'm crazy.  Or maybe it's just relative.  I was comparing it to the green Zegna, and similar fabrics with a very open, textured weave.  And in that comparison the Drapers seemed pretty flat, two-dimensional, and tightly woven.  Of course, I could just be mis-remembering, but I've looked at it on at least three occasions.  How would you compare it to the Minnis lightweight, high-twist fresco?  The weave and texture, aren't entirely disadvantages, btw.  Imo, they make the fabric better suited to a suit, like you got, than a jacket, which is what I was looking for.

 

It's textured, but perhaps not open in the way a Fresco might be. Nevertheless, it is somewhat see-through, especially when held up to the light. Remember, it's a very lightweight WSL blend.

 

I believe it's regarded as a jacketing, and the folks at Coccinella were a little surprised when I proposed having them make a suit out of it. 

post #17832 of 19918
Forgive me bespoke father for I have sinned.

I ordered a RTW Suit Supply tuxedo.
post #17833 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Forgive me bespoke father for I have sinned.

I ordered a RTW Suit Supply tuxedo.

You naughty boy why waste so much money :-D
post #17834 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

You naughty boy why waste so much money :-D

Hard to go wrong w/ tux (jacket fit me perfectly, not even the sleeves need shortening), shoes, shirt and bow tie for $899.
post #17835 of 19918
Update: took some late night pictures under better lighting and added length measurements


I'm clearing out three navy suitings from my personal stash at good prices. All are at least 3.5 meters. Enough for a 40R suit.
K4g0q0.jpg






1). H. Lesser, navy hopsack 13 oz, 4 meters

http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/h-lesser-sons/no-303-13ozs

xWgBOA.jpg
nKfi1i.jpg
29748_1.jpg
xQhuGy.jpg




2). Minnis Fresco, a shade in between "Air Force Blue" and navy blue. 14-15 oz, 3.5 meters

Original thread. http://www.styleforum.net/t/519989/minnis-fresco-15oz-3-ply-three-colors/0_50

Better pictures coming later from my camera in better lighting.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread/17100_50#post_8361591

eFuBnG.jpg
Rkd6rx.jpg
ny3Y6r.jpg



3). Minnis Fresco, navy 8-9 oz, 3.7 meters

Standard stuff. I'll snap a picture later too

RWQCIC.jpg
0F6auI.jpg
Compare with the other Fresco shades
kjrsAM.jpg
0505.jpg
Edited by jrd617 - 5/19/16 at 12:37am
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