Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Despos]

Oh, I didn't really get it. Thanks

It wasn't meant like that, I have same problem and I know how hard it can be for people to describe, pretty much none of my MTM have picked it up. I have thought about this before, and for MTM for instance how would you decide whether you need to pick up for the drop shoulder or just clear and angle?

Sounds simple and complicated at the same time. I'll pass, I don't know

 

[Slewfoot]



Something that's good to experiment with is structure of coat, I have come to conclusion for myself that business demands a formal elegant suit for sure, definitely structured, but I literally don't leave the house without a jacket. The greatest realization I had in the last few years was unstructured jackets, to get them clean they need fit perfect, as no canvas or rigidity to hide the flaws. They can fit like a second skin if done right and be a lot more comfortable for a lot of  occasions that don't demand such a formal structure. This is the one thing I give credit for the Italians for championing. I see you experiment with a paddock coat etc, perhaps try your hand at an unstructed one

I definitely prefer the soft tailored effect with minimal structure. I had a jacket made by NSM which I like very much in the Summer although I rarely wear jackets in hot weather anyway. I usually just stick with linen trousers and a seersucker or linen shirt.

This recent barleycorn jacket is made with very minimal padding and a light canvas. Hardly anything there. Less so than even my Steeds. I would say Steed has a touch of structure, but just enough to make it drape properly in the right places. Don't think I'd need anything much lighter than these especially since some of the photos I've seen of guys in things with no canvas at all make the garment appear a bit flimsy. I also don't have a tailor now who would want to do it and I would not want to push the ones I know to do so. Plus that would really be for a Summer jacket anyway of which I hardly wear them anyway as mentioned.

Don't think I haven't thought all this through. :^)

 

[Despos]

Slew, that barleycorn is one of the first LL cloths I would make up for myself. I'm a sucker for that color and barleycorn is underrated as a jacketing. A sophisticated pattern to my mind.
Do you think it work as topcoat as well? I might make it up as both a jacket and a topcoat. Is it currently available or an older issue?

The MBT work is very clean. Not as draped in the chest as your others but it looks good. No pull on the button either. There are things about his cutting I like.

 

[fassbinder]

...

 

[Slewfoot]



Slew, that barleycorn is one of the first LL cloths I would make up for myself. I'm a sucker for that color and barleycorn is underrated as a jacketing. A sophisticated pattern to my mind.
Do you think it work as topcoat as well? I might make it up as both a jacket and a topcoat. Is it currently available or an older issue?

The MBT work is very clean. Not as draped in the chest as your others but it looks good. No pull on the button either. There are things about his cutting I like.

Thanks Chris! Glad you approve. I like the fabric even more than I thought I would. I believe this was a test fabric and that it may go into full production in the upcoming months. To be honest I can't recall. I just remember Michael mentioning he had a jacket's length left and I grabbed it. I think it could work as a topcoat if that's a style one wanted. One guy made it up as such and it looks very nice. For me I prefer more sober coats, but that's just personal preference.

 

[dieworkwear]

Looks great, Slew. I agree the Steed cut has a bit more panache on you, but I like the (seemingly to my eye) more casual silhouette of this jacket.

In any case, great looking fabric.

 

[poorsod]



Slew, that barleycorn is one of the first LL cloths I would make up for myself. I'm a sucker for that color and barleycorn is underrated as a jacketing. A sophisticated pattern to my mind.
Do you think it work as topcoat as well? I might make it up as both a jacket and a topcoat. Is it currently available or an older issue?

The MBT work is very clean. Not as draped in the chest as your others but it looks good. No pull on the button either. There are things about his cutting I like.

The barley corn is from Molloy and sons. The minimum order length is quite short. Maybe 10-20 meters. Ercole bought a roll for themselves. Consider contacting them to ask if they would make a roll for you.

 

[Pliny]

Something that's good to experiment with is structure of coat, I have come to conclusion for myself that business demands a formal elegant suit for sure, definitely structured, but I literally don't leave the house without a jacket. The greatest realization I had in the last few years was unstructured jackets, to get them clean they need fit perfect, as no canvas or rigidity to hide the flaws. They can fit like a second skin if done right and be a lot more comfortable for a lot of occasions that don't demand such a formal structure. This is the one thing I give credit for the Italians for championing. I see you experiment with a paddock coat etc, perhaps try your hand at an unstructed one

.. don't forget aqueducts

London Lounge Brown Barleycorn tweed now funded. Really comfy fabric that feels like I'm wearing a cozy blanket. Heavy stuff at around 19oz. Perfect for today's weather. Made by a MBT. Is it as good as Steed? No way, but still very nice and the fabric is stellar.

this is awsm

 

[mattcritchlow]



The barley corn is from Molloy and sons. The minimum order length is quite short. Maybe 10-20 meters. Ercole bought a roll for themselves. Consider contacting them to ask if they would make a roll for you.

I'd certainly take a few meters.

 

[rob]



I think your tailor has pulled the wool over your eyes!
We can use you over on the tailor/fit/feedback thread

Yes, I open my mouth just enough to get my foot in.

Rob

 

[Slickman]



I love that. I have the first LL gun club, which is in the same scale I think, and really enjoy it.

I believe the scale is just a bit bigger than the LL GCs, not 100% sure. I originally thought it was a loud pattern once I saw it made up as a jacket, but the dullness of the colors makes for a more muted jacket, I should wear it more to break it in a little, still stiff

 

[dieworkwear]

Can anyone suggest a source for a good Russell plaid? There's Minnis Alsport, but it's 17oz and I'm afraid that might be too heavy for me.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[dopey]



It is hard to pair a lighter colored trouser with that jacket. It looks like a light shade of blue/grey on the screen to me. If you wear darker grey or navy, you may not be used to a light color jacket and darker trouser combo, but what do I know! Say this because have had clients that didn't wear/like things for that reason but couldn't pinpoint the reasoning.

If the collar isn't staying on your neck, what is causing the issue would make the jacket uncomfortable and annoying to wear. Jacket is always fighting you.

@Despos - it turns out I still have it. It is a mix of royal and black and, while very soft wool, the effect is almost a sheen. I tried to donate it to the JeffreyD disassembly project but he insisted it was fixable. If you give me enough warning, I will show it to you when next you are in town (I still owe you a pipe).

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



Can anyone suggest a source for a good Russell plaid? There's Minnis Alsport, but it's 17oz and I'm afraid that might be too heavy for me.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Draper's has a great one which is about 12 oz. I forget the exact book.

 

[smc]

Anyone seen/have a picture of the Hardy Minnis Alsport 2414? Supposed to be a dark blue hopsack.

Looking at the Huddersfield website, I think the wrong image is up. The photo looks, well, not blue at all.

It's also 590g. That's, what, 20oz? Not entirely sure I'm up for something that heavy. Curious to hear anything about it.