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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1167

post #17491 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post


Would love to see pics.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugotes View Post
 

 

Great, thanks! Would also love to see the jacket.

 

(Also, don't search for images of "Delfino Maremna", apparently some unlucky dolphin beached in Maremma, Italy)

 

This is the jacket. A bit sloppy, literally threw it on this morning to post.

 

 

This is a new tailor I have been working with. I am happy to announce names when I settle on this jacket and decide that it is worthy.

 

I have worn this jacket <5 times, so the interlining/canvas is a bit stiff. It causes the jacket to remain a bit boxy, which in my experience will soften up. The following things will be fixed after wearing it in a bit -

 

  • The button stance: the button is sewn in slightly off w.r.t. the buttonhole. This causes horizontal imbalance. Secondly, the chest canvas is stiff and (I think) contributes to the button stance being a bit higher than its final state.
  • I also instructed the next jacket to be of a lower button stance over all.
  • The shoulders need cleaning up by reshaping the back of the armhole. You can see that there is a bit of divoting on my right shoulder.

 

Thoughts?

post #17492 of 19895
^ I won't say anything about the fit, as there are more qualified members to make comments. But I really like the cloth. Do you have details on the weight and composition? I've been looking for something similar, now that the brown Moonbeam I had in mind has been discontinued.
post #17493 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

^ I won't say anything about the fit, as there are more qualified members to make comments. But I really like the cloth. Do you have details on the weight and composition? I've been looking for something similar, now that the brown Moonbeam I had in mind has been discontinued.

 

This: http://www.carnet.it/en/maremma/1908-020cntc48-05660-001a-e-cashmere-carnet-fratelli-tallia-di-delfino.html

 

Just by doing this exercise (haven't posted fit pics before) .. I never realised how hard it is to get a picture that looks like the ones you see on WAYWRN. If I get some time, I think I will set my camera to eye level and take a picture with the camera slightly tilted down. To me, that is where the natural viewer sees this jacket.

post #17494 of 19895
Thanks for the link!

Indeed, taking proper "selfies" is easier said than done.
post #17495 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

I have it buggy lined. Unfortunately I don't have many good pictures, as I haven't worn them for a while, but here are some:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

I have it buggy lined. Unfortunately I don't have many good pictures, as I haven't worn them for a while, but here are disclos

May I know which tailor made the first one?  I remember you were posting works by Hong Kong tailors.  I am thinking of making peak lapel SB and that looks quite good.

post #17496 of 19895

These are all by Dream Bespoke. I would have lowered the gorge a little for the large peak lapels, and the buttoning point a little for the DB, in hindsight, but Ricky is good to work with.

post #17497 of 19895
Hello
This fabric was recently offered to the forum through someone with a connection to the Carlo Barbera factory:

http://cdn.styleforum.net/d/d2/d27fae02_IMG-20151229-WA0010-4.jpeg

Unfortunately, the factory connection failed and I was not able to obtain the cloth.

Does anyone have any knowledge as to where it could be acquired? It is a wool, linen, silk blend in a summer weight.

My tailor believed it was a vintage fabric that may only be available through a jobber. Although if that were the case, it seems odd that is was initially made available through the factory.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Likewise, if you are familiar with a similar summer fabric that lead would be appreciated as well.

Best.
post #17498 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by computingboy91 View Post

The button stance: the button is sewn in slightly off w.r.t. the buttonhole. This causes horizontal imbalance.

Assuming I understand what you mean, your tailor should be able to adjust for this by picking up the dropped side at the shoulder seam.
post #17499 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Assuming I understand what you mean, your tailor should be able to adjust for this by picking up the dropped side at the shoulder seam.
How about putting the button in the correct place?
post #17500 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

How about putting the button in the correct place?

I assume that's not what the OP meant though. From his post, I assume he just means there's a left-right balance issue.

You can kind of see the issue in the photo. He has a heavily dropped right shoulder, but the hem (as is) is aligned. There's also some slight pulling just under his right lapel. My guess is that -- if he were to unbutton his coat -- the right side would fall. What he mistakes as a misplaced button is probably just a non-corrected right drop.

This happens because tailors cut the left and right panels out together, with the fabric folded over onto itself. If a client has a heavily dropped right shoulder, they need to adjust for that, but not all do. So when you lay the coat flat, it looks fine. When you wear it, however, the button and buttonhole might not align. That's an easier thing to spot when you're just throwing the jacket on than scrutinizing to coat to see whether the hem is balanced.

If that's the issue, it's pretty easy to correct at the shoulder seam.

He could also move the button -- but that only fixes the button alignment and not the fundamental issue of a bad left-right balance.
post #17501 of 19895

Gents, a perhaps impossible question to answer since it would be better to split F/W and S/S or even further:

 

For the One navy suit for wear from fall to spring, so "three season weight" in the NE (so real seasonal changes), any suggestions as to cloth?

 

Pictures of fabric and/or finished product appreciated.

post #17502 of 19895
I run cold so 16oz Lesser works for me 6-8 months of the year for me. Otherwise consider Lesser 13 or Smith Botany 13oz.
post #17503 of 19895
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Gents, a perhaps impossible question to answer since it would be better to split F/W and S/S or even further:

For the One navy suit for wear from fall to spring, so "three season weight" in the NE (so real seasonal changes), any suggestions as to cloth?

Pictures of fabric and/or finished product appreciated.

Lesser 13 ounce navy. Perhaps 29748, 29760 or 29768 on the below link. I have a suit made of one of them. Great cloth, but a suit made in a drape cut with roomy trousers needs some work after you lose weight, so I haven't worn it in awhile.

http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/h-lesser-sons/no-303-13ozs
post #17504 of 19895
^ Check out the navy lumb's golden bale from H. Lesser as well. There is a heavier weight version (13/14 ounces) and a lighter weigth version (9/10 ounces). The heavier weight is incredible. You could definitely get three seasons out of it.
post #17505 of 19895

Its funny, i have totally turned away from 3 season suits.  I just go with winter weight and summer weight.  I just think in the Northeast, you end up with too much compromise (both in function and is losing out on the true winter weight fabric options).

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