Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]

That's a neat looking pocket, dopey.

 

[mktitsworth]

Agreed. Any particular reason for it? Better phrasing: What was the inspiration for it?

 

[dopey]

Thanks.
The pocket is a bellows pocket (tacked at the top).
It goes with the inside poacher's pocket, ticket pocket and zipped-in breast pockets for a sport coat intended to hold lots of stuff.
The particular shape of the bellows pocket is one I had seen on another Huntsman coat. The scoop makes it less likely to droop or gap.

I have another bellows pocket that is really cool - it is craved, and so are the bellows, which is a neat trick if you think about it. There are photos in the Anglomania thread - the droop problem in that version is solved with a button closure.

 

[Concordia]

Normally I think of flannels as blazer-ish stuff if not being made into a suit. But there are probably some patterned ones that you could stretch over the border into sport jacket land. The 18oz London Lounge POWs might work, especially if you installed patch pockets or some other cue that it didn't start as a suit jacket. They're substantial enough that they almost look like tweeds.

 

[Griffindork]

^i love that fabric dopey. Peter Smith searched for me but there was none left. The newer version that I selected is a little less "huntsman" than yours, but it still has that depth of fabric that the better tweeds have.

As for the current state of affairs, I can't say that all of the changes seem to be for the better. For the bespoke customers, I think little has changed, but I do worry that the people that are the heart and soul of the place aren't necessarily being treated in the manner that they should. And the changes to the RTW are drastic and, in my view, worse (although that is a stylistic preference). As long as my suits say "Patrick Murphy" on them, I have no doubt about what I will get (that isn't a knock on Dario but Pat is my cutter). I think the huntsman team reallly appreciates seeing their bespoke clients, particularly in the states, as a way of reconnecting with old friends when things might be less than perfect back home.

 

[mktitsworth]

Thanks.
The pocket is a bellows pocket (tacked at the top).
It goes with the inside poacher's pocket, ticket pocket and zipped-in breast pockets for a sport coat intended to hold lots of stuff.
The particular shape of the bellows pocket is one I had seen on another Huntsman coat. The scoop makes it less likely to droop or gap.

I have another bellows pocket that is really cool - it is craved, and so are the bellows, which is a neat trick if you think about it. There are photos in the Anglomania thread - the droop problem in that version is solved with a button closure.

This thread? http://www.styleforum.net/t/46516/from-the-annals-of-anglomania/0_100

Some amazing stuff in there.

 

[dopey]



^i love that fabric dopey. Peter Smith searched for me but there was none left. The newer version that I selected is a little less "huntsman" than yours, but it still has that depth of fabric that the better tweeds have.

As for the current state of affairs, I can't say that all of the changes seem to be for the better. For the bespoke customers, I think little has changed, but I do worry that the people that are the heart and soul of the place aren't necessarily being treated in the manner that they should. And the changes to the RTW are drastic and, in my view, worse (although that is a stylistic preference). As long as my suits say "Patrick Murphy" on them, I have no doubt about what I will get (that isn't a knock on Dario but Pat is my cutter). I think the huntsman team reallly appreciates seeing their bespoke clients, particularly in the states, as a way of reconnecting with old friends when things might be less than perfect back home.

I hope the bespoke operation stays. They really do produce great stuff. I placed my last order elsewhere for reasons having nothing to do with Huntsman but I hope to keep using them. But you are right that it is important for the group to stay together. Not just Peter and Patrick, but also the coat makers and trimmers that contribute so much to the overall high quality. I am certainly concerned and have heard rumors from more than one source.

 This thread? http://www.styleforum.net/t/46516/from-the-annals-of-anglomania/0_100

Some amazing stuff in there.

Yes. Post 70.

 

[mactire]

Looking for high quality, obnoxiously large scale tweeds for making jackets. Something like this:

Help?

Ask and ye shall receive, the Hunters name has been relaunched by the daughter of the owner http://www.hunterstweed.com/Tweed

There's also this chap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Worst...12048?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric&hash=item43b7f84d30 or even the Solway bunch from Porter and Harding examples here http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...H0.Xsolway&_nkw=solway&_sacat=28162&_from=R40

 

[TheFoo]



Ask and ye shall receive, the Hunters name has been relaunched by the daughter of the owner http://www.hunterstweed.com/Tweed

Awesome! Three meters of obnoxious early 80's sofa fabric tweed ordered.

More, please!

 

[mactire]

Awesome! Three meters of obnoxious early 80's sofa fabric tweed ordered.

More, please!

With great power comes great responsibility:

Soon as I get a bit of scratch together, I'm getting the above beauty, cars will crash, and pedestrians will get motion sickness.

 

[unbelragazzo]

What do you guys think about these for an Ulster coat?

 

[mktitsworth]

Definitely prefer the Migdale. The pattern on the Salscraggie distracts from my idea of the ulster. The prominence of the double check just seems... off? The Migdale looks like it has a nice color variegation while the checks would blend in at a distance.

 

[YRR92]

From Fox, this is a sportcoat PoW (which would also work as DB)

http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/pro...ngths/prince-of-wales-check-jacketing-flannel

Do you mean that would work as a DB suit, but not an SB suit? I think I agree, but I can't put my finger on the reason why. May I ask what your thoughts are?

 

[mktitsworth]

Do you mean that would work as a DB suit, but not an SB suit? I think I agree, but I can't put my finger on the reason why. May I ask what your thoughts are?

Given that fabric, I think he means it would work as a DB odd jacket. I don't think Ed would recommend using a jacketing for a suit of any kind. Especially not when that particular kind of POW - really, it's a black and cream Urqhart plaid - is available from numerous manufacturers as a suiting.

 

[tcbrgs]

Surprised you focus on the lack of a readily available rational explanation from one person rather than the fact that a skilled bespoke tailor has NEVER made up the sort of cloth in question as an odd jacket for 42 years. Not to mention that it is possible that there is not a great way to explain something on an internet forum but enough personal experience with cloth would prove the point. I have most of those swatches and would never dream of making them up as odd jackets. I'll admit I have less experience with cloth than many on here, but the more time I have spent looking at various cloths, the more I start to appreciate certain nuances.

We aren't talking specifically about those cloths, we are talking about flannels in general with Despos. I've used tailors just as acclaimed as Despos, who have made me flannel sports coats, now what do you say, sir?

Only on style forum, would you read the above paragraph, advocating less use of reason and logic when making decisions

I'll repeat what I said many pages ago: if you like the look of it there is nothing inherently wrong with flannels, or those POW check, but this is my opinion of course, YMMV I don't wear loud suits, these are much more appropriate POW designs for suitings, in my opinion of course, you are free to wear what you desire:




And this is my final fit of my new horrible flannel odd jacket (although everyone who's seen it off styleforum absolutely loves it ) , it needs buttons and pressing, and I wore a jumper underneath so is a little tight





I spoke with my friend just after he finished the beautiful lapel buttonhole, and passed the message that he is wrong to be working on a flannel odd coat, his and mine response: a good laugh.

I know how much you love your logical fallacies (I suggest you read up on them, to improve your debating skills), but he also has been making coats around same time as Despos.

I'll repeat my sentiment, if it looks good, and feels good, wear it, that is the purpose of well made clothing.