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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1155

post #17311 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Prefer higher wool content in the blend than mohair and the more important variable is the quality of the wool used in the cloth.

The 90% was difficult to tailor, it really was like sewing a rubber mat.
Don't know how the Tonik wears, only made one and didn't want to use the Tonik cloth again. Actually I don't use or have the Dormeuil line anymore.

Sold two mohair suits this week, one Harrison's Cape Kid and one from Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze books. Will see how they perform

Mohairs in the late 70's and 80's seem to have been different from what is available today. More earth tones, patterns, stripes and the cloth felt different. Don't know why.

The 90% Tonik is scratchy and stiff. I'm not surprised it resists the iron as much as it resists wrinkles and humidity. I have suit lengths of 100% mohair and dupioni silk and I suspect neither of them are going to be easy to tailor.
post #17312 of 19898
Good day to all! I plan to commission my tailor for a third bespoke business suit. I'm looking at medium gray with very subtle window pane, SB and peak lapel. Also, I live in the Far East where the weather is hot and humid all year round. Can someone kindly offer me advice on a suitable suiting fabric that looks similar to the one below:

image.jpeg

Thank you! biggrin.gif
post #17313 of 19898
post #17314 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

I understand that Solaro is now made in wool and not just cotton, but I'd be interested to know how both wear for others.

 

Pretty sure that Solaro was originally a wool fabric (first made by London cloth merchant Smith Woollens) that is now available in a cotton version. 

post #17315 of 19898
20160329_125222_zpsdmgqwquy.jpg

Top is Tonik, bottom is fresco 520. I'd say that the tonik is slightly stiffer and smoother.
post #17316 of 19898

That tonik colour looks fantastic.

 

Also, i'm looking for some nice tan linen (preferably 100%) / tan cotton. Any suggestions for mills / merchants?

 

Preferably under $100 a metre ( is that asking too little?)

post #17317 of 19898
Pretty much has tan linen, what weight are you looking for? Minnis (J Hardy) and Harrison (WBill) both have pretty good Irish linen. Check out their websites. I'm not sure if any of the Italian merchants' linens you can buy direct or not off the top of my head
post #17318 of 19898
Heavier oz on linen would likely result in better drape in cloth correct? Or am I misinterpreting the correlation there.

I think wbill from merino comes out to 200 cad a metre.

Awesome, I have access to gladsons collection, and ill try to get that summer breeze collection.

Thanks!
post #17319 of 19898
FWIW this Carnet 11/12oz tan linen Formosa is cool, drapes well and barely wrinkles

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/tan-medium-weight-open-weave-linen-suit-11-12-oz-carnet-cloth.html
post #17320 of 19898
Balancing act re: linen. Heavier weight does drape a bit better and rumples versus wrinkles, but too heavy and you defeat the purpose of linen. I find 10-11 ounces for a suit and a bit more for trousers to be a good sweet spot. YMMV.
post #17321 of 19898
Heavier linen suits are much easier to tolerate for the heat if you pair them with linen shirts. Cotton can behave like a plastic bag in high humidity.
Get the jacket softly-constructed and partially unlined, and it will be most forgiving of even the NYC summer furnace.
post #17322 of 19898
I can comfortably wear the suit above in weather up to around 30-35C (minimal humidity, however)
post #17323 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

FWIW this Carnet 11/12oz tan linen Formosa is cool, drapes well and barely wrinkles

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/tan-medium-weight-open-weave-linen-suit-11-12-oz-carnet-cloth.html

I was actually looking for that fabric actually.

The carnet website looks like a good place to go, not sure if thet sell direct, or even which fabric that is in their catalogue.

Figured it would be past my $100/meter range
post #17324 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

I think wbill from merino comes out to 200 cad a metre.

That price seems quite high.

HFW (Hardy/Minnis) Irish linens retail for £49/meter or 92CND via their website (cheaper for tailors)

I have purchased W Bill linen directly from their warehouse in London, and even paying VAT it was £60 per meter.
post #17325 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

FWIW this Carnet 11/12oz tan linen Formosa is cool, drapes well and barely wrinkles

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/tan-medium-weight-open-weave-linen-suit-11-12-oz-carnet-cloth.html

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

I can comfortably wear the suit above in weather up to around 30-35C (minimal humidity, however)


I also have this exact suit.

 

Great suit, great material.  This Carnet linen is woven a bit like a hopsack, and with its slightly heavier weight, holds its structure well.

 

However, for high temp/humidity I'd still be reaching for a wool/silk/linen blend in a lighter weight, say 8-9oz.

 

 

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