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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1154

post #17296 of 19913
I think Dormeuil's 90% mohair Tonik has great rich color. Otherwise, Smith's makes really nice wool/mohair blends that are similar to Tonik.
post #17297 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

[in answer to is it scratchy]

 

bout the same as Fresco. 

 

So pretty scratchy, then.

post #17298 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

There's Tonik 2000 and Tonik. Tonik is super expensive and only comes in black and midnight blue. I can see tonik going the way of the dinosaur frown.gif.

Ah, understood. I was referring to Tonik 2000 it seems. Happy to hear that's going nowhere smile.gif

And Andy, embrace the scratch!
post #17299 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

Ah, understood. I was referring to Tonik 2000 it seems. Happy to hear that's going nowhere smile.gif

And Andy, embrace the scratch!

Some people areally funny about that. I don't mind mohair, lambswool, etc. My wife hates how it feels though.
post #17300 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post


Ah, understood. I was referring to Tonik 2000 it seems. Happy to hear that's going nowhere smile.gif

And Andy, embrace the scratch!

 

I wish I could. I had to have my Fresco trousers half-lined. They are now tolerable.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post

Some people areally funny about that. I don't mind mohair, lambswool, etc. My wife hates how it feels though.

 

I can wear flannel and most wool cloth against my legs (though obviously not tweeds and not Fresco). But I cannot wear wool against my skin anywhere else on my body.

post #17301 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
Ah, understood. I was referring to Tonik 2000 it seems. Happy to hear that's going nowhere smile.gif

And Andy, embrace the scratch!

I wish I could. I had to have my Fresco trousers half-lined. They are now tolerable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post

Some people areally funny about that. I don't mind mohair, lambswool, etc. My wife hates how it feels though. T

 

I can wear flannel and most wool cloth against my legs (though obviously not tweeds and not Fresco). But I cannot wear wool against my skin anywhere else on my body.

 

 

The 3-ply Michael-Caine-Get-Carter-Tonik would've been like wearing sandpaper... Which explains why he was so ornery in that movie.  

 

But 2000 if fine for me, unless it's really humid.

post #17302 of 19913

So Pliny, as a fellow Orstrilian, can you please offer me a short-list of warm-weather suitings I should consider?

 

I'm waiting on imminent delivery of my latest commission, made up from 8oz buggy-lined Draper's 2421, which is an open-weave WSL blend. This suit will be so summery as to be almost translucent.

 

I also have three linen suits - the two Formosas and a SuitSupply. So I'm looking in other directions now. Minnis Fresco seems like it should be on the list, as should Solaro (either the woollen Smiths or the cotton Caccioppoli). However, tan Solaro might be a little too close to my tan linen Formosa.

 

Decisions, decisions.

post #17303 of 19913

@Coxsackie  I wouldn't say I'm particularly knowledgeable there.   Have u looked in at 'The Kerbau'-  a Malaysian site?   Those guys know warm-weather suiting... and cloth in general.

The warm weather ideal is a dry porous ~8oz  with the drape of cloth twice it's weight.  If it exists, I don't know about it .  That's why, given I'm mostly in A/C, I'm happier wearing 12-13oz , and for that I stick with Lesser, Oyster, Smiths Botany. 

 

I just posted  my 10 in the '10 suit wardrobe' thread, so u can see what I like.  Apart from Frescos,  Solaros, or mohairs u might dig Dupioni silk, a dead-set Summer classic, but I'm not sure if still available.  

Mind u, I wouldn't do it myself, but I'm less flamboyant than some :satisfied: 

post #17304 of 19913
Solaro is not an especially great warm-weather cloth, at least nowadays. Tight weave and not light weight at 12oz, more or less.

For very warm weather, the lightest Finmeresco is pretty good if you don't overtax it. The lightest Fresco has its virtues (not the 9-10oz stuff. Some of the tropicals are OK, such as Lesser-- and although word is that quality varies by pattern, the Dugdale New Fine Worsted has some potential. Rangoon is a little more substantial, but there are a few people who are commissioning new runs from Minnis.
post #17305 of 19913

I haven't tried it, but I would concur based on my other experiences: even at the same or slightly greater weight, the Minnis Fresco wool breathes so well that it's not at all oppressive in a hot, humid environment (and I live in an extremely hot, humid climate).  I do have a couple of cotton suits, and they're beautifully light and wearable.  The only problem is that if you start to get hot, there's nowhere for the heat to go - cotton tends to hold moisture.  So they're great indoors in the AC, and for a couple of minutes from your car to the office.  But if you get stuck in the heat for long enough to feel a little sweaty, you're going to be feeling that way for the next couple of hours, and your suit's going to start crumpling up like hell too.

 

I understand that Solaro is now made in wool and not just cotton, but I'd be interested to know how both wear for others.

post #17306 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I think Dormeuil's 90% mohair Tonik has great rich color. Otherwise, Smith's makes really nice wool/mohair blends that are similar to Tonik.


Made the 90% cloth up and think it was one of the worst cloths I have ever worked with. It was malleable like a rubber mat.

post #17307 of 19913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Made the 90% cloth up and think it was one of the worst cloths I have ever worked with. It was malleable like a rubber mat.

Does this equate to how it will wear as well? What's a better alternative for the 90/10 tonik?
post #17308 of 19913
I don't know if he was saying it was bad to wear/doesn't last as much as it's hard to deal with and tailor
post #17309 of 19913

Prefer higher wool content in the blend than mohair and the more important variable is the quality of the wool used in the cloth.

 

The 90% was difficult to tailor, it really was like sewing a rubber mat.

Don't know how the Tonik wears, only made one and didn't want to use the Tonik cloth again. Actually I don't use or have the Dormeuil line anymore.

 

Sold two mohair suits this week, one Harrison's Cape Kid and one from Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze books. Will see how they perform

 

Mohairs in the late 70's and 80's seem to have been different from what is available today. More earth tones, patterns, stripes and the cloth felt different. Don't know why.

post #17310 of 19913

With each post I read on this thread, I feel like I become the tiniest quantum less ignorant.

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