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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1152

post #17266 of 19918
Gentlemen,

For next winter (planning ahead, I know) I'm counting on having made up a peacoat, probably in the style of one of these drawings made for Simon Crompton (never mind his end product), and definitely with back pleat and half belt.



Instead of going with melton or something similar I want something with a bit more texture and visual interest and depth. After having seen the LL's first Everest cashmere I signed up for the second run, but it turned out the navy side was much lighter than the first version so I think I'd rather use the caramel side of the cloth for a different purpose. But then I found this 24/24 oz woolen twill coating - do you think it would be suitable?




I have a sample of it and it is a bit coarse, but for a heavy duty peacoat I thought it might be okay. But other suggestions are of course most welcome smile.gif

Thanks in advance for your inputs!
Edited by S K M - 3/24/16 at 7:06am
post #17267 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Gentlemen,

For next winter (planning ahead, I know) I'm counting on having made up a peacoat, probably in the style of one of these drawings made for Simon Crompton (never mind his end product), and definitely with back pleat and half belt.



Instead of going with melton or something similar I want something with a bit more texture and visual interest and depth. After having seen the LL's first Everest cashmere I signed up for the second run, but it turned out the navy side was much lighter than the first version so I think I'd rather use the caramel side of the cloth for a different purpose. But then I found this 24/24 oz woolen twill coating by Fox - do you think it would be suitable?




I have a sample of it and it is a bit coarse, but for a heavy duty peacoat I thought it might be okay. But other suggestions are of course most welcome smile.gif

Thanks in advance for your inputs!

I like that Fox cloth, but if your goal is to achieve a peacoat I would stick with a melton or a least a true navy color. I really like the idea of staying with tradition, but possibly add subtle pattern like a navy on navy herringbone. 

 

Dugdale for example:

 

493_SRC_50a39c7522f56.jpg 

 

Certainly not as luxurious as cashmere of course. Be sure to post some images when its done!

 

DL-

post #17268 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

I like that Fox cloth, but if your goal is to achieve a peacoat I would stick with a melton or a least a true navy color. I really like the idea of staying with tradition, but possibly add subtle pattern like a navy on navy herringbone. 

Dugdale for example:

493_SRC_50a39c7522f56.jpg 

Certainly not as luxurious as cashmere of course. Be sure to post some images when its done!

DL-


Thanks for your input and funny you should mention Dugdale. I actually have a peacoat-ish style jacket made from a navy Dugdale around 21 oz (might actually be the one you pictured) which I seek to replace by this peacoat. But I very much agree on the qualities of the Dugdale, it's hardwearing stuff that drapes like steel – I've been wearing mine on a more or less daily basis for four seasons, and only the lining is showing some use now.

Of course I'll make sure to post some photos once it's done, whatever I end up with smile.gif
post #17269 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Thanks for your input and funny you should mention Dugdale. I actually have a peacoat-ish style jacket made from a navy Dugdale around 21 oz (might actually be the one you pictured) which I seek to replace by this peacoat. But I very much agree on the qualities of the Dugdale, it's hardwearing stuff that drapes like steel – I've been wearing mine on a more or less daily basis for four seasons, and only the lining is showing some use now.

Of course I'll make sure to post some photos once it's done, whatever I end up with smile.gif

I am also planning a pea coat within next two year but will stick with proper "Pilot" cloth for it, as well as a true oiginal design with both chest vertical pockets and hip pockets.(Pictures are available of vintage examples being worn by navy personnel around WW2)

The G&H designs for Crompton are too much like a short Great coat , which I would not call Pea Coat at all.
post #17270 of 19918
It's worth also speaking to HE Box. They specialise in heavier fabrics including coatings, and usually have some interesting stuff. No 'Fox tax' either:

http://www.he-box.co.uk/
post #17271 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post

HE Box.
I dated a girl once who had one of these.

I renounce myself.
post #17272 of 19918

I'm interested in maybe having a summer suit made up in Caccioppoli Solaro, the 9/10oz tan herringbone which seems to be one of the more popular iterations of this cloth.

 

Doubtless it would be easier to go through my tailor, but just as a matter of interest I snooped around the Caccioppoli website. Seems it's very limited unless one registers as a client, so I tried that, but after filling in my details and clicking "register", I got a "error 404 page not found" message.

 

Is this a known issue with their website?

post #17273 of 19918
Just put up some medium blue Dormeuil Tonik and a nice gunclub for sale:

DSCF4193_zpsvpmc07dh.jpg

DSCF4190_zpseldftps8.jpg
post #17274 of 19918
@ericgereghty PM Ed about the tonik, preferably 5 minutes ago.
post #17275 of 19918
That Tonik though
post #17276 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

That Tonik though


Yep. I PM'd Ed as the ad didn't say how much he has. He has 7 meters. 

post #17277 of 19918

Someone enlighten me....what's the deal with Tonik?  I've heard @lordsuperb talk about it a lot, but what's so great about it?  

post #17278 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

Someone enlighten me....what's the deal with Tonik?  I've heard @lordsuperb talk about it a lot, but what's so great about it?  


Mohair blend, bro.

post #17279 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokencycle View Post
 


Mohair blend, bro.

 

Really....what's the mohair %?

post #17280 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

Really....what's the mohair %?

 

Normally 30% - that fabric is 70/30.  They have some that are wool, mohair, and silk.

I haven't seen the Tonik in person, but I love mohair blends, and I have a Dormeuil wool - kind of a fresco - blazer, and it is awesome stuff.  I'd love to have a reason (and budget) to get some.

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