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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1138

post #17056 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxfordDon View Post

Can anyone help me identify the specific fabric used by Fabio Attanasio for this navy blazer?

http://www.thebespokedudes.com/en/looks/642/blazer-edesim

He says it is a W Bill Shetland, but the images I can find on the Harrisons site don't really show much in the way of navy, let alone the pronounced twill that comes across in the images of Fabio's jacket.

it can be
or this

post #17057 of 20780

Draper's Five Star book is still good, only a few numbers are sold out.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 

Drapers 5-Star book is now withdrawn and discontinued. Draper's rep was in cleaning up the sample books and discarded this book yesterday.  Hobart sample book preceded 5-Star and was every bit as good or better.

post #17058 of 20780
I hope I'm not opening up a bag of worms, but what's the general consensus, if any, on fresco suits and lining? I usually prefer getting coats fully-lined, mainly due to durability, but will I be missing out on the "screen door" feeling of fresco by getting it lined? This will be a blazersuit, to be used as separates mainly when I travel, so durability is a concern for me.
post #17059 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

I hope I'm not opening up a bag of worms, but what's the general consensus, if any, on fresco suits and lining? I usually prefer getting coats fully-lined, mainly due to durability, but will I be missing out on the "screen door" feeling of fresco by getting it lined? This will be a blazersuit, to be used as separates mainly when I travel, so durability is a concern for me.
I typically get mine lined. I'd rather have it hang well and not get stuck on my shirt. There's also the issue of having your shirt (or boxers) shine though the jacket.

I have no controlled testing to prove it, but the kind of construction you get (shoulder pads, etc.) may make more of a difference than the lining. When you're using 9/10oz, it isn't normally that great for very hot weather anyway.
post #17060 of 20780
^ Valid points, although I'd get the sleeves fully-lined either way. But I do suppose the back of the coat could catch on the shirt if not lined.

I suppose a lined coat would avoid wrinkles better when packed, too?
post #17061 of 20780
I've had both lined and unlined Frescos, although it's hard to compare since they were constructed somewhat differently (one being less structured than the other). Both were made from 9/10 ounce fabrics.

I try not to wear tailored jackets when it gets into the 90s or so, but below that, I've been comfortable in both.
post #17062 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

^ Valid points, although I'd get the sleeves fully-lined either way. But I do suppose the back of the coat could catch on the shirt if not lined.

I suppose a lined coat would avoid wrinkles better when packed, too?

While an unlined sleeve could catch, an unlined back won't. Every bit of breathability help when you use such garments in warm environment IMHO. By the way, it is easy to have the back converted from half-lined to fully-lined. It is a lot more work going the other way round.
post #17063 of 20780
Will you lose any durability inthe back from being quarter/half lined?
post #17064 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Will you lose any durability inthe back from being quarter/half lined?

I don't think so.
post #17065 of 20780
Not sure of the correct terminology, but I've seen two styles of unlined coat, or rather when I had unlined coats made, it was executed differently by two tailors. On one of them, the front part of the coat was "doubled up" with fabric and there was only a small bit of lining used on the seams. On the second, the front inside part looked just like a lined coat, except that the lining ended a bit short with no lining on the back except the shoulder/upper back area.
post #17066 of 20780
Tchoy and Merino Bros:

Thank you very much for the assist.
post #17067 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Not sure of the correct terminology, but I've seen two styles of unlined coat, or rather when I had unlined coats made, it was executed differently by two tailors. On one of them, the front part of the coat was "doubled up" with fabric and there was only a small bit of lining used on the seams. On the second, the front inside part looked just like a lined coat, except that the lining ended a bit short with no lining on the back except the shoulder/upper back area.

Technically speaking (though there was some debate recently when foo.gif mentioned it) the first scenario (using the cloth of the jacket as lining) is what is referred to as "buggy lining." Again, that was questioned by multiple people recently, but I'm with foo.gif as far as my understanding of it (or at least how it has been explained to me). The second instance sounds like quarter or half lined, depending on how far the lining extends to/if you have things like interior pockets.

FWIW I have a couple "unlined" jackets and they are completely devoid of lining, aside from the sleeves. While it's great on lightweight or unstructured jackets, it also is usually a limiting factor for interior pockets. Two of my unlined jackets have no interior pockets at all, which kinda sucks as I'm the kind of guy to treat a jacket like a woman treats a handbag.
post #17068 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post


Technically speaking (though there was some debate recently when foo.gif mentioned it) the first scenario (using the cloth of the jacket as lining) is what is referred to as "buggy lining." Again, that was questioned by multiple people recently, but I'm with foo.gif as far as my understanding of it (or at least how it has been explained to me). The second instance sounds like quarter or half lined, depending on how far the lining extends to/if you have things like interior pockets.

FWIW I have a couple "unlined" jackets and they are completely devoid of lining, aside from the sleeves. While it's great on lightweight or unstructured jackets, it also is usually a limiting factor for interior pockets. Two of my unlined jackets have no interior pockets at all, which kinda sucks as I'm the kind of guy to treat a jacket like a woman treats a handbag.

 

I'm certainly no expert on the technical aspects, but regarding the bolded text, I completely agree.  

 

Where I live it is typically humid to very humid in the warm months, which usually surprises people who aren't from here.  I've wanted to get a completely unlined (or even unstructured) jacket for maximum ventilation, but every time I see so few pockets, it stops me in my tracks.  

post #17069 of 20780
You can fold the front of the jacket back to create interior pockets. AFAIK, you can't put welted pockets at the hips, however, unless you're OK with exposed pocket bags.
post #17070 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

You can fold the front of the jacket back to create interior pockets. AFAIK, you can't put welted pockets at the hips, however, unless you're OK with exposed pocket bags.

 

Yes, I suppose that's true.  For the record, I was talking about off the rack jackets I had seen in person.  In retrospect I'm thankful to have not bought them for various reasons.

 

On another note, if I don't get the funds together for a Reeves Fresco Summer Suit, I might make a last minute cloth order from you.  Both options are intriguing, and I've been meaning to tell you that.

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