or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1121

post #16801 of 19908
Some people say that the quilted collar and lapels are uncomfortable.
Anybody have this problem?
Never had the quilted ones, so I don't know.
They look nice and novel.
post #16802 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonWave View Post

I'm not familiar with the Smith Woolens' Formal bunch per se but the other bunches I've had experience with have been excellent. I have a length of William Halstead 100% summer kid mohair that I intend to make up into a tuxedo. It is 260-280 gms and comes in black and midnight blue. I made up the latter into a business suit but no longer wear because it is too dark. Since it is mohair, it would be prickly to wear, but it hangs very well and has a very interesting shine to it, and these qualities more than make up for the prickliness.

How do you like the Halstead fabric? Don't think id have the courage to go for 100% mohair, but some of their blends are tempting.
post #16803 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

How do you like the Halstead fabric? Don't think id have the courage to go for 100% mohair, but some of their blends are tempting.

Apart from the prickliness I find that the 100% summer kid mohair hangs well and is comfortable to wear. I've also had a suit in their Explorer range ( 2-ply by 2-ply, 27% mohair; probably adult) that feels a little more prickly and also feels pretty stiff, appreciably more stiff than the 100% SKM.
Edited by CrimsonWave - 2/20/16 at 3:00am
post #16804 of 19908
Doesn't Halstead make for other brands as well?
post #16805 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I have the Black version, Smith Woollens Black Baratea 8811 (71% Merino & 29% Mohair) 310g (10oz). Many on this forum have used the Midnight Blue version, that should be ref. 8810
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Dormeuil tonik!
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I think 8810 is the way to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I had Chan use a Smith merino blend (black!) for a DB DJ. Something like 9oz. It is very good stuff.

In general, your first black tie rig is probably best done in lighter weights, as long as it doesn't screw up the construction and drape. Most places people wear the things are dreadfully overheated, even in the dead of winter. You can always get a black or dark overcoat to get you as far as your limousine after the event. smile.gif

That said, if you're cool-blooded, or expect to be breaking it out in Scottish castles, then go wild. 12oz doesn't have to be ridiculously hot. Were I to get an extra suit for some reason, I'd think hard about 12oz barathea or maybe a 10oz flannel just to be weird.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonWave View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I'm not familiar with the Smith Woolens' Formal bunch per se but the other bunches I've had experience with have been excellent. I have a length of William Halstead 100% summer kid mohair that I intend to make up into a tuxedo. It is 260-280 gms and comes in black and midnight blue. I made up the latter into a business suit but no longer wear because it is too dark. Since it is mohair, it would be prickly to wear, but it hangs very well and has a very interesting shine to it, and these qualities more than make up for the prickliness.

Thank you all for the feedback. I suppose I am partial to the Smith Wollens suggestions, since I have ordered before from HoE and they are nice dealing with. I cannot seem to find Tonik on the Dormeuil website, though. In general, anyone have experience ordering from them directly? Ditto for Pepper Lee - actually never heard of them before. CrimsonWave, I suppose you had no issues ordering from them? Did they provide swatches to you?

Good point on using the lighter weights, Concordia. I suppose 8810 or 8811 in 10 ounces seems to be a solid choice.
post #16806 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Thank you all for the feedback. I suppose I am partial to the Smith Wollens suggestions, since I have ordered before from HoE and they are nice dealing with. I cannot seem to find Tonik on the Dormeuil website, though. In general, anyone have experience ordering from them directly? Ditto for Pepper Lee - actually never heard of them before. CrimsonWave, I suppose you had no issues ordering from them? Did they provide swatches to you?

Good point on using the lighter weights, Concordia. I suppose 8810 or 8811 in 10 ounces seems to be a solid choice.

Yes, I've ordered swatches and cloth from Pepper Lee before, no problems. My experiences ordering from Harrisons of Edinburgh have also been very positive.

AFAIK Dormeuil doesn't sell directly to end users.
post #16807 of 19908

I have a trouser length (1.3m) of Fox Flannels mid grey CBT5 A1285/22 if anyone is interested.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/516252/price-drop-fox-brothers-flannel-grey-cbt5-a1285-22-trouser-length-1-3m

post #16808 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post

It is being made at the mill.

Kolecho, I am also interested and local pick up is ok. Thanks
post #16809 of 19908
Looking for a navy/blue donegal with flecks, not too heavy as I'm in San Francisco, and not herringbone. Something similar to the pics below for a jacket or maybe a full suit (if that's worth doing). Any advice or direction?

@brillopad's Eidos is Malloy & Sons, don't know what Vox's is, and @GusW I know you just got a navy donegal from Ring - what was the fabric you used?

Thanks all.





post #16810 of 19908
@jcmeyer My donegal is from the Ariston book. Its a dark navy with various shades of blue flecks. It doesn't have multi-colored rusts and browns like those shown above.

Although the photo appears to have some white in the mix those spots are actually a very light blue.

I think a mix of shades of blue is less seasonal looking than the rusts and brown. To my eye, it is a nice alternative to a blue blazer. I think it would be too heavy for a Bay Area suit.


post #16811 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@jcmeyer My donegal is from the Ariston book. Its a dark navy with various shades of blue flecks. It doesn't have multi-colored rusts and browns like those shown above.

Although the photo appears to have some white in the mix those spots are actually a very light blue.

I think a mix of shades of blue is less seasonal looking than the rusts and brown. To my eye, it is a nice alternative to a blue blazer. I think it would be too heavy for a Bay Area suit.



Thanks for the quick reply, Gus. Suit is probably overkill, you're right.

I was also thinking I might only half-line the jacket. I have an RLBL wool/cashmere that's half lined and I like the weight/warmth level a lot. It's hard to make out on your pic, do you remember what weight the Ariston is?
post #16812 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by baromatic View Post


Kolecho, I am also interested and local pick up is ok. Thanks

+1. If purchase is still possible, consider me in.

post #16813 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmeyer View Post

Looking for a navy/blue donegal with flecks, not too heavy as I'm in San Francisco, and not herringbone. Something similar to the pics below for a jacket or maybe a full suit (if that's worth doing). Any advice or direction?

@brillopad's Eidos is Malloy & Sons, don't know what Vox's is, and @GusW I know you just got a navy donegal from Ring - what was the fabric you used?

Thanks all.

This is the only blue and white that I have ever seen, but its long discontinued and I only have 2 yards of it (actually 1 yard 34 inches) left.




post #16814 of 19908
@jcmeyer I just had a fitting for a jacket using a length of navy Donegal from Molloy. It turned out to be lighter weight than I was expecting and might be what you're looking for. Plus Molloy is actually Irish, from, well, Donegal.

Can't see the point of a half lining, frankly. It won't turn a tweed jacket into summer linen. But I will admit that is a prejudice of mine. I would not dream of commissioning anything other than a fully lined jacket. I am aware that StyFo favors other types of lining.
post #16815 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

This is the only blue and white that I have ever seen Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
, but its long discontinued and I only have 2 yards of it (actually 1 yard 34 inches) left.





A nice cloth for sure, but I would definitely prefer some more color dimension to the flecks and more blue/navy than white to the base. Gus may be right that getting away from shades of blue/white and into rusts/reds would make it more of a F/W only jacket, hadn't really considered that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

Can't see the point of a half lining, frankly.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@jcmeyer I just had a fitting for a jacket using a length of navy Donegal from Molloy. It turned out to be lighter weight than I was expecting and might be what you're looking for. Plus Molloy is actually Irish, from, well, Donegal.

Can't see the point of a half lining, frankly. It won't turn a tweed jacket into summer linen. But I will admit that is a prejudice of mine. I would not dream of commissioning anything other than a fully lined jacket. I am aware that StyFo favors other types of lining.

Understandable. My experience is really rather limited on the whole, so there may be no point to it - certainly it isn't a big deal to me either way. I just figured maybe if I found a relatively light fabric and didn't line the whole thing it could stretch a bit longer seasonally.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread