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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1117

post #16741 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Criticism is fine but there's no need for dismissive snarky comments. Criticism loses all its value when accompanied by a nasty tone. I was actually trying to explain something that's seldom discussed on SF - and your conclusion was "you make it sound as if every issue will magically disappear over time." Completely unnecessary mischaracterization of what I said. So do you actually really want the kind of "discussion" that you say you miss (I.e. a two way conversation) or are you simply happy with sniping shots for the peanut gallery (here and elsewhere)? I have no problem with criticism and discussion. I feel though, that my (informed) opinion is now summarily dismissed by some because I also have commercial interests here. I'm happy to keep providing information on what I see - again, beside the actual tailors here, guys like incontro, yfyf and I probably attend more bespoke fittings in a year than anyone here in a lifetime. We can tell you what we see and how a tailor resolves a fit issue or a quirk. It can be ignored or called "wrong" or it can be considered in the discussion. But the bitter tone and sniping is IMO better reserved for other forums where it is a trademark.
Thank you for reaffirming my point: in case of criticism, the poster gets attacked (in this case by questioning my motives for posting) while the actual points of criticism keep being ignored.
post #16742 of 19918

Hello my name is dimitrios and i am new here.

Nice to find you.

I am reading you a while but today i will need your help to find out 

a certain suit fabric i am looking for,to create with my tailor a two piece suit.

 

I am looking for this

 

 

 

A blue chalk stripe(stripe grey/white) wool about 260 to 320 gr.

if anyone have seen that fabric before somewhere i will appreciate to help me find it out.

 

 

 

Please conside the right width between stripes...

 

Thank you very much !

post #16743 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

while the actual points of criticism keep being ignored.

He responded to your critique in his original post...
post #16744 of 19918
Concern troll remains highly concerned!

post #16745 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Thank you for reaffirming my point: in case of criticism, the poster gets attacked (in this case by questioning my motives for posting) while the actual points of criticism keep being ignored.

At least on the shoulder divot Greg has responded and I think he agrees that it is an issue. It's the cause and remedy that are up for debate.
post #16746 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Concern troll remains highly concerned!


Beyonce looks fantastic with that haircut. I think that is the point which most urgently needs to be made here. Shame they are probably at a Nets game. Maybe they're playing a real team that night, so I don't know. Perhaps they'll have a decent time.

post #16747 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 


Beyonce looks fantastic with that haircut. I think that is the point which most urgently needs to be made here. Shame they are probably at a Nets game. Maybe they're playing a real team that night, so I don't know. Perhaps they'll have a decent time.


Jay-Z is lucky he got out. Being an Agent to superstars >>> partially owning the nets

post #16748 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Thank you for reaffirming my point: in case of criticism, the poster gets attacked (in this case by questioning my motives for posting) while the actual points of criticism keep being ignored.

This sort of attitude is why I've given up on posting pictures. I'd love to post more to show color combinations, but knowing that if I get the camera angle wrong, I'm going to have to deal with 5 people who think they know more about my clothes from one picture than I do from wearing them for years, makes it not worth it. Criticism is fine in theory, but it's not inherently good in and of itself.

I respect that you post a lot of photos and think you have some good insights. That said, SF doesn't revolve around the what are you wearing thread. This whole shitshow started when someone posted a picture to show what a fabric looked like made up and people started responding with fit criticisms. Time and place.
post #16749 of 19918
^ I will edit my original post to remove any mention of the jacket in question so that no one feels like anyone's actual clothes are being attacked. That being said,I find the discussion about the divots to be interesting. And if Greg is correct about the remedy, I find that to be a pretty fascinating aspect of bespoke clothing that I had never learned or even heard of in my 12 years as a client of various tailors. And it would drastically change the way I think about fittings.

Maybe this isn't the right thread (although the tolerance for thread drift is pretty high around here) but a conversation about the causes and remedies of shoulder divots strikes me as a pretty good topic.
post #16750 of 19918
^ It's an interesting topic. I didn't mind the initial post, but these things take on a life of their own once argument starts. Nothing against you.
post #16751 of 19918
#sigh
Edited by The Noodles - 2/14/16 at 9:55pm
post #16752 of 19918
It's impossible to explain--the recipe of yarn, weave, and finish. If one ingredient is slightly off, the cloth is sub par. Those of us picked up some of the old Lesser 9.5/10 will be forever spoiled-- it really was that exceptional. Again, I don't have the words. There's plenty of worsted panama cloth out there. Mediocre goods. Frontier doesn't come close.

As much as I liked the Lesser 9.5/10, I thought Rangoon was superior to the Lesser 8/9 oz. panama.
The finish plays a big part. Rangoon wore like lightweight steel that was somehow porous/breathable. Unreal.

These guys--

http://www.wtjohnson.co.uk

matter as much as these guys--

http://www.cj-antich.com/antich-today/
post #16753 of 19918
I know some guys have been doing Rangoon remakes- haven't seen anyone try to get the Lesser 9.5/10 reweaved though
post #16754 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

I know some guys have been doing Rangoon remakes- haven't seen anyone try to get the Lesser 9.5/10 reweaved though

Interested in the Rangoon remakes - any further details?
post #16755 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post

Gents. I am doing a special run of Minnis Rangoon 8-9oz tropical worsted. This is a grey nailhead pattern that is the same shade as the mid grey sharkskin Harrisons Oyster 75762 (the middle grey of the three shades of sharkskin from the Oyster bunch).

Price is USD60/m plus shipping. Self pick up in HK is fine. Please PM if you are interested. Thanks.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post

I did some Rangoon run a few months back and still have some lengths in blue in stock. Please see scan of the cloth next to a completed standard navy suit. PM me if you are interested in getting some of the blue Rangoon (USD60/m plus shipping). Thanks.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ~ B ~ View Post


Cheers Cantab, there's a pic in the link below of the navy chalk Rangoon made up by Ripense

http://avantistilo.blogspot.sg/2014/08/our-rangoon-113-navy-chalkstripe-made.html

I've had a couple DB and SB suits made in this Rangoon, as have many friends around the world, and we all agree that the cloth is lovely and likely the best tropical worsted around. I order it to a higher spec than Lesser SFT which is/was also made by Minnis.
 
 
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