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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1115

post #16711 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

How can you tell the jacket is too short from this picture?


By using my eyes.

post #16712 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


By using my eyes.

I'm impressed that you can tell from the front pic without seeing the back, or other angles, (the lower rise of the pants might cause some visual distortions , etc etc.), but you've already determined, so congrats
post #16713 of 19908
Seems to be about this length judging by where the jacket lands below the knuckle.



It seems alright buttoned, but it is shorter than these



post #16714 of 19908
No clags, Elioda has already determined that it is short. No need to ask the person who actually owns the suit.
post #16715 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

No clags, Elioda has already determined that it is short. No need to ask the person who actually owns the suit.

 

BTW, shouldn't you tell Greg and Clags to take their fit critique posts elsewhere?

post #16716 of 19908
...
post #16717 of 19908

Can anyone who has handled Harrison fine classics cloth comment on the texture. is it rough/scratchy like the frontier book? or does it have a smoother texture? Thanks!


Edited by fllick - 2/13/16 at 12:31am
post #16718 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by fllick View Post

Can anyone who has handled Harrison fine classics cloth comment on the texture. is it rough/scratchy like the frontier book? or does it have a smoother texture? Thanks!

I used to have a fine classic suit made up. The texture is relatively smooth but not silky. I will say just by the touch of it it is very typical wool worsted however it feels slightly thinner.


Performance is pretty good however.
post #16719 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


I used to have a fine classic suit made up. The texture is relatively smooth but not silky. I will say just by the touch of it it is very typical wool worsted however it feels slightly thinner.


Performance is pretty good however.

Thanks! 

post #16720 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Sometimes the armhole feels a bit high/tight right after being attached/sewn. It creates some tension in the upper sleeve (what you're referring to here). That armhole needs to be eased. That can happen naturally with wear but I've seen tailors often accelerated the process by manually stretching the inside of the armhole with their hand. In any case, yes, shoulders, upper sleeve and armhole do settle and ease with wear. Every part of a jacket will fit better with wear. The top will take the shape of the customer's shoulder and neck lines, the chest piece will take the shape of the torso. And the armholes will ease.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Sometimes the armhole feels a bit high/tight right after being attached/sewn. It creates some tension in the upper sleeve (what you're referring to here). That armhole needs to be eased. That can happen naturally with wear but I've seen tailors often accelerated the process by manually stretching the inside of the armhole with their hand. In any case, yes, shoulders, upper sleeve and armhole do settle and ease with wear. Every part of a jacket will fit better with wear. The top will take the shape of the customer's shoulder and neck lines, the chest piece will take the shape of the torso. And the armholes will ease.

here is jeffreyd's explanation of the cause those shoulder divots. Parts of the jacket might soften over time but I'd be surprised if those divots go anywhere. I I can't see a tailor looking at those divots and saying "that's fine. It will work itself out"

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror
post #16721 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by fllick View Post

Can anyone who has handled Harrison fine classics cloth comment on the texture. is it rough/scratchy like the frontier book? or does it have a smoother texture? Thanks!
Very urbane and civilized. Hard, fairly dry, and generally smooth finish. Rather like Lesser 13oz, only lighter and more flexible.
post #16722 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

While it is true that a well made jacket will settle a bit to the wearer over time, it won't solve issues like a jacket being too short, or too short sleeves that are of uneven length. Or shoulders that are too extended. You make it sound as if every issue will magically disappear over time. Makes you wonder why tailors try so hard to get fit right in the first place, if that were the case.

That is not at all how I make it sound. I was only talking about the easing and shaping of the shoulders and upper sleev. I'm trying to share information about what I see when people get fitted and the actions that bespoke tailors take to ease parts of the jacket.

Maybe you misunderstood but this jacket was not fitted on Mr Six. He placed an order for a jacket and it was delivered, fully finished. There were no fittings. If he had been fitted by a tailor, the tailor probably would have worked the shape of the armholes - and if Mr Six wanted a longer jacket, probably could have found a way to lengthen it a little.

Not sure why the hostile tone? I noticed your tone has taken a turn to the snarky bitterness for a few months. I miss the old, better-natured EliodA
post #16723 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


here is jeffreyd's explanation of the cause those shoulder divots. Parts of the jacket might soften over time but I'd be surprised if those divots go anywhere. I I can't see a tailor looking at those divots and saying "that's fine. It will work itself out"

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror

I took part, mostly as an observer, in over a hundred bespoke fittings now. I can relate some information to you that you may not otherwise get. You can feel free to ignore it. The cause is (often) an armhole that somehow creates a little tension on the upper sleeve and pulls fabric into a little depression. On a lot of bespoke, hand-sewn jackets, there has been no stretching, easing or pressing of the inside of this area and it relaxes and stretches out with wear (or a bit of hand stretching). That is not something that is typically feasible on factory made jackets because of the way the sleeve is attached and the lack of flexibility in the armhole.

I'm not describing a solution to every divot issue out there. I'm simply expanding on the idea (shot down ferociously) that there actually is a fair amount of easing and shaping that happens to a jacket with wear.
post #16724 of 19908
^ I'm not ignoring you. I'm suggesting you are wrong. I've taken part as a client in over 40 bespoke fittings. I ask a lot of questions. Based on my experience, I don't think the armhole is going to stretch as you suggest. I had an issue with a bespoke jacket about a year ago that I didn't mention ion receipt. I took it back to my tailor and suggested that I hadn't said something initially because I thought the issue would settle with wear. His response was that I was crazy. If it doesn't fit upon receipt it needs to be fixed. So he fixed it. The cloth might have a little give and the stitches may be tight, but I just can't see how you would fix those divots with stretching. The armhole and sleeve head aren't right for the wearer. . But I guess we will see. By the way - in those fittings, if the arms don't have those divots are you concerned that the stretching over time will result in the jacket eventually looking off as it stretches? In any event, none of this is personal. It's a forum about clothes and respectful criticism is reasonable and helpful.
post #16725 of 19908
Stretching only happens where there is tension. If an armhole is low enough that there is no tension, there won't be any additional stretching or easing there.

Once again, I'm not suggesting that all divots will go away with wear. I'm simply saying that those areas of the jacket sometimes need wear and shaping out of a box. Any definitive proclamations on jacket fit and solutions based on pictures on the internet should be taken with a healthy dose of salt.
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