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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1112

post #16666 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post

I appreciate there are a number of dependent variables, including the weave of the cloth. However, does anyone have a sense / rule of thumb for how much a pure cashmere cloth will wear than a pure wool? If I have a 22oz wool overcoat, would replicating it in 22oz cashmere make it appreciably warmer?

Based on nothing but my own experience and some reasoning that makes sense to me, 20% warmer. In other words, 22oz wool will feel about the same as 17-18oz cashmere. Ish...

post #16667 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavro23 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post

I appreciate there are a number of dependent variables, including the weave of the cloth. However, does anyone have a sense / rule of thumb for how much a pure cashmere cloth will wear than a pure wool? If I have a 22oz wool overcoat, would replicating it in 22oz cashmere make it appreciably warmer?

Based on nothing but my own experience and some reasoning that makes sense to me, 20% warmer. In other words, 22oz wool will feel about the same as 17-18oz cashmere. Ish...

 

+ ~ 1 .. depends on which cashmere too.  Scottish 'cashmere club' cashmeres like Johnstons of Elgin are superior to the thinner but shorter fibre cloths produced in Italian mills.  Italian cashmeres are softer (and maybe warmer)  but not as durable.  I have an SC in 280g (9.5oz) J/E and it wears warmer than 13 oz wool imo

post #16668 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

+ ~ 1 .. depends on which cashmere too.  Scottish 'cashmere club' cashmeres like Johnstons of Elgin are superior to the thinner but shorter fibre cloths produced in Italian mills.  Italian cashmeres are softer (and maybe warmer)  but not as durable.  I have an SC in 280g (9.5oz) J/E and it wears warmer than 13 oz wool imo


I never cease to be astonished at the depth of knowledge on this board.

post #16669 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

Thanks for posting this - I hadn't heard of them but couldn't resist just buying the last 3 m of the W. Bill Rust Silk & Lambswool. A bargain at £20/m and have been thinking about commissioning a brown/rust jacket for A/W.

Hoping 3m will be enough...

The jacket was delivered today, together with trousers made from the Fox oatmeal flannel. Both tailored by Elia Caliendo. Photo below:

post #16670 of 19906
Just a PSA: Ercole has a suit-length of the custom Tobacco color Minnis Fresco, if anyone is interested. (I have 3.5m too, FYI.)
post #16671 of 19906



What can brown do for you?
post #16672 of 19906
@Winot very nice. Elia does great work.
post #16673 of 19906

Since I think this thread is a nice repository of cloths that have been made up, here's the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth 25347. Formosa MTO through NMWA.

 

 

post #16674 of 19906

What a shock, Six looks like a boss...good stuff amigo!

post #16675 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

Since I think this thread is a nice repository of cloths that have been made up, here's the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth 25347. Formosa MTO through NMWA.

 

I thumbed this fit in the WAYWRN thread, but looking at it again, is the jacket a little on the short side? It's a beautiful fabric and a really good look, though. So my quibble is somewhat trivial, clearly.

post #16676 of 19906

^ Not a quibble at all. When I looked at the photo I actually wondered the same and ended up measuring the length because I was curious. And I checked where the front hem touches my hands in other photos. The back is actually a bit longer than other jackets that appear to be longer and touches my hands in about the same place. So it might be an optical illusion of the fabric or photo. I'm not sure! :confused:

post #16677 of 19906
I would guess that the contrast between jacket and pants give an illusion of more pants being visible than your suits which have no contrast between jacket and trous. Regardless beautiful jacket. I have a Zegna in similar cloth and I love it
post #16678 of 19906
Of course heavier cloth drapes better. There's no great magic there. That simple logic aside, the white whale is a lighter, porous cloth that tailors and drapes well.

I have no idea who decided to do away with the H. Lesser 9.5/10 book. It may be that, like the Rangoon, the yarn, weave, and finish were so unique--a one-off, historically speaking--that it simply cannot be replicated. Frontier is not a good substitute. Nor is Crispaire, or, now that I've taken a closer look and feel, the Scabal Smart book.

It was the best cloth of its kind. It was the best potentially "year-round" cloth. And no effort's being made to bring it back.

I'd be interested in hearing from those who've attempted the Rangoon remakes. What made Rangoon so unique was the finish. Anybody can do a plain weave with good yarn, but it's the finish that makes the cloth. Can it be replicated?
post #16679 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knox View Post

Of course heavier cloth drapes better. There's no great magic there. That simple logic aside, the white whale is a lighter, porous cloth that tailors and drapes well.

I have no idea who decided to do away with the H. Lesser 9.5/10 book. It may be that, like the Rangoon, the yarn, weave, and finish were so unique--a one-off, historically speaking--that it simply cannot be replicated. Frontier is not a good substitute. Nor is Crispaire, or, now that I've taken a closer look and feel, the Scabal Smart book.

It was the best cloth of its kind. It was the best potentially "year-round" cloth. And no effort's being made to bring it back.

I'd be interested in hearing from those who've attempted the Rangoon remakes. What made Rangoon so unique was the finish. Anybody can do a plain weave with good yarn, but it's the finish that makes the cloth. Can it be replicated?

Can you expand upon the assertion that Crispaire, Frontier, or Scabal doesn't measure up? Not contesting the opinion, but curious as to your thoughts on it.

post #16680 of 19906
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

I would guess that the contrast between jacket and pants give an illusion of more pants being visible than your suits which have no contrast between jacket and trous...

This is exactly why odd jackets are usually made up to be a touch longer in the fronts than suit coats.
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