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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 111

post #1651 of 10778
Picked up the first of my Lessers today, this one from Carlo Barbera...English firm, Italian cloth, American wearer, a truly global sartorial make-up:





Vest was not ready, but it is a 3 piece. Nice fabric to make great separates too. Interesting suit, nice sport jacket...I love it, and with a high of 42F Monday, I'll be wearing it.

Some pattern changes made for this:
Collar is much closer and really hugs my neck well and the pants have a higher rise and wider leg opening while remaining slim in the middle. Not quite a boot cut, but no taper at all. 2" cuffs. Originally thought three roll two, but decided on just a simple two button as it looked so crisp during the first fitting.
post #1652 of 10778
That looks lovely. I'm quite interested in how the trouser shape works out, looking forward to pictures...
post #1653 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post
That looks lovely. I'm quite interested in how the trouser shape works out, looking forward to pictures...

+1
post #1654 of 10778
Are you sure this is a Barbera cloth? It looks like the typical 13oz Lesser herringbone. I thought the Barbera cloths carried by Lessers were only sport coat fabrics and not suiting like this one. I'm a little confused by this whole "English firm, Italian cloth" comment...
post #1655 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I thought the Barbera cloths carried by Lessers were only sport coat fabrics and not suiting like this one.

That's what I thought as well.
post #1656 of 10778
Many of the Barbera cloths were suitings as well. I recall a pale grey broken herringbone/barleycorn made into three piece that looked great.
post #1657 of 10778
No doubt that Carlo Barbera makes suiting cloth but were any carried by HL ? I've never seen them in HL books or whenever DL sent me swatches - the CB ones always seem to be sport coat cloths.
post #1658 of 10778
Have a Barbera for Lesser blue/grey flannel in stock that is not from the Barbera for Lesser sportcoat book so other cloths do exist. Both names are on the selvedge. Not sure where or how to find them or if another book exists. Bought this from Isles. Color and weight are perfect, bought all they had.
post #1659 of 10778
Cool - I didn't know that. So, what did HL source from CB and what did they make themselves? Any idea what the distinction is - type of weave, maybe material?
post #1660 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Have a Barbera for Lesser blue/grey flannel in stock that is not from the Barbera for Lesser sportcoat book so other cloths do exist. Both names are on the selvedge. Not sure where or how to find them or if another book exists. Bought this from Isles. Color and weight are perfect, bought all they had.

I believe there's a length with my name on it for next fall!
post #1661 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post
I believe there's a length with my name on it for next fall!

You are correct sir!
post #1662 of 10778
This is on the bottom of my queue:

This is the only shot of it before making, no selvedge shot, but Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket, I'll find it and photo it. IIRC this was a sportcoating that I just had made into a three piece. Like I said, its a staid SC, but an "interesting suit". Its certainly an "Italian cloth" but the Lesser brothers had them make for them. Hence Italian cloth, English firm.
post #1663 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
Cool - I didn't know that. So, what did HL source from CB and what did they make themselves? Any idea what the distinction is - type of weave, maybe material?

HL does not make cloth.
post #1664 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post
Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket

I thought that was solely a quirk of my tailor but i guess not.
post #1665 of 10778
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post
This is on the bottom of my queue:

This is the only shot of it before making, no selvedge shot, but Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket, I'll find it and photo it. IIRC this was a sportcoating that I just had made into a three piece. Like I said, its a staid SC, but an "interesting suit". Its certainly an "Italian cloth" but the Lesser brothers had them make for them. Hence Italian cloth, English firm.

This is from the same Lesser/Barbera book I am familiar with. Its a nice cloth but I have not seen anything like it in a while. Scabal used to sell something like it - a softer, fuzzier, version of sharkskin - but I think they discontinued it along with their other cloths I liked. Does anybody know if the Silver Gander is still available?
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