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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1091

post #16351 of 20259
Don't do it dude.
post #16352 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Don't do it dude.

+1. On the other hand there's nothing on TV tonight so.....
post #16353 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


How so?

 

Well, is obvious no one in Savile does even what can be considered a decent suit compared with decades ago, and of course most of those won´t pass any exam in Naples.

 

The greatness of the almighty Savile is gone maybe since the 80´s. 

 

And better to not mention the Jermyn street  “shirts” that are Bangladesh made 20 euros ones with a fake tag of Made in England and overpriced 15 times more. 

 

Some of the best Jermyn shirts were made in Naples and attached Hand made in England tags... but I can´t talk about, you know...

post #16354 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

Well, is obvious no one in Savile does even what can be considered a decent suit compared with decades ago, and of course most of those won´t pass any exam in Naples.

The greatness of the almighty Savile is gone maybe since the 80´s. 

And better to not mention the Jermyn street  “shirts” that are Bangladesh made 20 euros ones with a fake tag of Made in England and overpriced 15 times more. 

Some of the best Jermyn shirts were made in Naples and attached Hand made in England tags... but I can´t talk about, you know...

So you were at some point a savile row customer? What exactly do you consider a decent suit. I was just there this past weekend. The suits may not be your taste but they looked quite nice. If they were in my price range I would've definitely bought a suit from Maurice Sedwell.
post #16355 of 20259
Giant thread drift going on above but an interesting one. Sartodinapoli lacks nuance, and he isn't right, but there is a hint of truth to what he says. I've been a customer on the row for 10 years now with various houses and I would describe the work as...uneven. You can get some great stuff, but you can some garbage. Some houses stand behind their work and redo it until it's right, but others don't. Furthermore, it's incestuous. I left kilgour to get away from a cutter and moved to huntsman. That cutter from kilgour that I tried to get away from is now at huntsman. The cutter I liked at huntsman returned to Davies, where he started. Others that I knew are now at Richard Anderson. Who knows where they will all be next. Somewhere on the row I suppose.

On the other hand, to point to Napoli as the bastion of great tailoring strikes me as a weak argument. One only has to look at the Ambrosi thread to see the disasters produced by the greatest Neapolitan trouser maker (and I'm referring to fit issues. Don't even get me started on the customer service).

i think the French are in a league of their own. It's not just that the work is impeccable, but they really care. They aren't just phoning it in and you won't see Cifo or camps logging on to the web to call their customers morons. They are too busy producing great garments. And making sure that the customer is happy. The garments are amazing.
post #16356 of 20259
Prices of many of the French brands are also in a league of their own, so you can't really compare
post #16357 of 20259
^examples please? In dollars, huntsman is priced significantly higher than Cifo. It isn't close. And neither charge as much for trousers as Ambrosi through the armoury in New York. So I'm not sure where you get your info but would love to hear examples.
post #16358 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by xizenta View Post




Buttonhole on my fresco commission.

Looks good. Who's the tailor please?
post #16359 of 20259
Any love for American tailors?
post #16360 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

And neither charge as much for trousers as Ambrosi through the armoury in New York.

wow.gif

Times must have changed since Ambrosi was doing his solo trips.
post #16361 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

wow.gif

Times must have changed since Ambrosi was doing his solo trips.

Yes, drastically. That being said, as part of the price now you have the luxury of being able to deal with the armoury and knowing that if there is an issue they will fix it for you.
post #16362 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Any love for American tailors?

Not sure if this is directed at me but my experience is limited. I used David Reeves when he was at Duncan Quinn and it wasn't good, but that was a long time ago and I wouldn't form a view now based on it. Despos customers used to post here more frequently and I thought the work was impressive and the clients looked great although it wasn't for me stylistically.
post #16363 of 20259

I'm a customer of Ambrosi and I like his trousers very much...he has yet to do me wrong...and I do think the Armoury adds value to the equation...not just as the intermediary that guarantees the workmanship but they are also very knowledgeable, caring, and provide excellent customer service. 

 

No love for Frank Shattuck? I don't personally know anyone that has worked with him but from what i've seen his work is very impressive. 

post #16364 of 20259
^ I don't know anything about Frank's work other than by reputation. I agree on the Armoury, although it is a bit of a double-edged sword. I suppose that the end product matters most, but I've always found it odd that the guys from the armoury have to essentially do fittings for Ambrosi, and take measurements and pin trousers on his behalf. At that price, I would expect a sole author to see it through from start to finish: measure, cut, deliver. I find it unfathomable that Ambrosi will charge four figures for a pair of pants and send them to a client and out into the wild without seeing them in finished form on the client. What if there is an issue? That's his reputation in each pair.
post #16365 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^ I don't know anything about Frank's work other than by reputation. I agree on the Armoury, although it is a bit of a double-edged sword. I suppose that the end product matters most, but I've always found it odd that the guys from the armoury have to essentially do fittings for Ambrosi, and take measurements and pin trousers on his behalf. At that price, I would expect a sole author to see it through from start to finish: measure, cut, deliver. I find it unfathomable that Ambrosi will charge four figures for a pair of pants and send them to a client and out into the wild without seeing them in finished form on the client. What if there is an issue? That's his reputation in each pair.

 

Ambrosi has always been present for all of my fittings from the measurement stage, basted fitting, and delivery of final product. 

 

You can skip the last fitting with him if you want and expedite the process...but I choose not to. You can also get the pants shipped to you as soon as they are completed and then bring them in to see him on his next visit to assess the overall fit with him present...though I also forego this in favor of meeting directly. 

 

He has even handsewn portions of the trousers in front of me to make adjustments at the basted stage. 

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