or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1089

post #16321 of 20362
NYC tends to be a bit different in that the commute, 99 out of 100 times, involves public transit and/or walking for some real distance, so the argument that exposure to heat and humidity is only seconds in duration isn't applicable for most NYCers.
post #16322 of 20362
Jiffy - we see a number of people going for 1/4 lined suits for summer. IME, fully unlined doesn't help much vs having just the back unlined. A cool bemberg lining behind the fronts of the jacket isn't going to make you warmer but it will provide a little bit more structure so that the jacket looks more presentable in a business environment.

Not sure why you don't like fresco but I'd recommend either another fresco-like open weave fabric (like the ones from Tallia Delfino) or a tropical wool like only the Italians do well (because, well, they need those more than the English) - VBC Revenge is a good quality for sturdy but very light tropical, but every Italian mill/merchant has some.

The fresco-type open weave fabrics help in the summer, not just for the jacket but also the trousers, which if lining higher than the knee, will provide welcome ventilation.

Again, I'd recommend 1/4 lined over total unlined
post #16323 of 20362
Also, is there any use in having the jacket unlined if the fabric itself isn't open-weave/breathable?
post #16324 of 20362

 @agjiffy I have a 9oz (lined in the arms for practicality) that is holding up well. I recall choosing merino wool for durability, though I can't remember where I got this notion or whether it's true beyond my anecdotal example.

post #16325 of 20362
Thanks all. I'm going to try a 9 ounce wool from dormeuil to see how it does. If it's still too warm for summer I will get wear out of it anyway I suppose.
post #16326 of 20362

Funded, finally. LL herringbone tweed from Lovat.

 

Big thanks to @Ercoles for fitting me, I am not easy to tailor, and I could not be happier with this cloth.

 

Basted:

 

Best,

 

DL-

post #16327 of 20362
I second - VBC Revenge works well in 90+ degree humid weather in NY
post #16328 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

LL herringbone tweed from Lovat.



That's the Shetland? I was just looking at that this morning in the cedar closet, wondering if this is the year to make a real brown (without green) for next autumn.
post #16329 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post


That's the Shetland? I was just looking at that this morning in the cedar closet, wondering if this is the year to make a real brown (without green) for next autumn.


@Concordia I honestly don't recall if it is shetland or not. It is very tweedy IRL. Either way its fantastic.

 

DL-

post #16330 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

So, moving forward, and with a sincere desire to be helpful -

 

I have a couple of suits in wool/linen/silk blend (mostly 70/15/15 but the proportions can vary). Canali make a lot of these, and all their fabric is from Loro Piana (or so I'm told), so you could start with LP's books.

 

I also have a Brunello Cucinelli in the above blend, very lightweight, buggy-lined. I was wearing it today in Melbourne's 37 degree (C) heat and I didn't break a sweat. Here are some pics showing that suit's fabric and construction:

 

 

 

(nb it's fully canvassed behind the lining, and weirdly, some sections of the front panels seem to have a very thin fusing applied to them also.)


In my experience, this type of cloth blend breathes well, and the linen content is low enough that creasing problems are minimal. Yet they hold a pressed crease well. For my money it's an ideal summer suiting cloth.

 

Finally, I have a new project under way with a "secret" tailor (who will be named in due course - if things go well) in a Draper wool/linen/silk blend, again specifically for summer use. So I'm putting my money where my mouth is.

So is that the so call "half canvassed structure"? I am ordering a piece of blend linen, silk , wool and plan to put in funded, 

Wonder if this cloth need this half fused structure 

post #16331 of 20362
Fresco Lite is on the way.

8/8.5 oz., I think.
post #16332 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

So is that the so call "half canvassed structure"? I am ordering a piece of blend linen, silk , wool and plan to put in funded, 

Wonder if this cloth need this half fused structure 


I'm not the right person to ask about the technical terms. I can tell you that the floating canvas appears to go all the way to the bottom of the front quarters, but is fairly narrow at the bottom. It's also a pretty lightweight canvas.

 

I'm not sure how much of the front panel fabric is fused (in addition to this floating canvas). That could be very routine or very unusual, I wouldn't have a clue. Maybe this is a very special thing that only Brunello Cucinelli does. I'm sure there's a good reason though. Maybe simply to lend a bit of extra weight and drape to that part of the jacket?

post #16333 of 20362
Anyone have experience or heard about a cloth called Alpaca from Smiths? Looks very nice, but I can't seem to find any information
post #16334 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 


I'm not the right person to ask about the technical terms. I can tell you that the floating canvas appears to go all the way to the bottom of the front quarters, but is fairly narrow at the bottom. It's also a pretty lightweight canvas.

 

I'm not sure how much of the front panel fabric is fused (in addition to this floating canvas). That could be very routine or very unusual, I wouldn't have a clue. Maybe this is a very special thing that only Brunello Cucinelli does. I'm sure there's a good reason though. Maybe simply to lend a bit of extra weight and drape to that part of the jacket?

 

Thanks for the reply, just checked my cloth has a similar % content of wool/linen/silk, so wonder if it need light fusing to make it drape better ?

post #16335 of 20362
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

 

Thanks for the reply, just checked my cloth has a similar % content of wool/linen/silk, so wonder if it need light fusing to make it drape better ?


It kind of goes against the ethos of fully canvased suits to apply fusing directly to the cloth. My particular suit might be unique. I really don't know - I'm an amateur.

 

Best ask your tailor. Instead of blurting out "fusing", maybe just ask whether the cloth has sufficient stiffness to hold a shape on its own (with the support of the canvas, of course), or if not, how he proposes to reinforce it. Once you've selected a tailor, you really should mostly just place trust in them and not try to tell them their business. If it doesn't work out, well, ask them if it can be fixed. An ethical tailor would try to do that. An ethical and skilled tailor will make sure they are never put in that position in the first place, by doing the job well first time.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread