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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1088

post #16306 of 19908
I have had various summer suits/jackets made up (from NYC, now in HK, much hotter and humid than NYC). My 100% wool jackets in weights that I can tolerate are too delicate and the fabric wears down too easily. They also don't have enough heft. I have found that the best wearing fabrics for a summer jacket are some kind of wool/silk/linen blend, or linen/wool. In addition, the type and weight of the canvas will also affect how warm the jacket wears.
post #16307 of 19908
^ thanks much. That is what I was afraid on with the wool.
post #16308 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^ thanks, but again totally missing the point. I'm not looking for what people have tolerated in off the rack suits of various weights. I'm looking for advice from people that have specifically commissioned a 100% wool, unlined suit specifically for summer wear in NYC or something like it (the difference being that, with the bespoke commission, all other options are at your finger tips and presumably that the bespeaker has some experience with this sort of thing). Either you've commissioned a summer suit and made a choice on fabric or you haven't. But the link is not really helpful.
Have an unlined (really partially lined) suit from Cape Kid - that wears very cool. It is pretty lightweight and I think the books are online. If you don't mind mohair than that would be great. Really superbly comfortable. The other lightweight cool suits I have are frescos and crispier, which you seem uninterested in, and a 9oz tropical wool, book unknown.
post #16309 of 19908
How is the unknown tropical wool, Dopey? Does it hold its shape and wear ok?
post #16310 of 19908
Yes and yes. Now that recall, I have two of them (different unknowns).
But holding shape is relative. They do get droopy faster. In that sense Cape Kid (and the ineligible frescos and crispaires) are way better. But if you are prepared to send your suits for more frequent pressing, that would be fine.
post #16311 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^ thanks, but again totally missing the point. I'm not looking for what people have tolerated in off the rack suits of various weights. I'm looking for advice from people that have specifically commissioned a 100% wool, unlined suit specifically for summer wear in NYC or something like it (the difference being that, with the bespoke commission, all other options are at your finger tips and presumably that the bespeaker has some experience with this sort of thing). Either you've commissioned a summer suit and made a choice on fabric or you haven't. But the link is not really helpful.

I was giving an example because there would be more data points from which to gather information from those rather than a person who has commissioned one or two, which is a much smaller sample size.

You asked for unlined, 100% wool. Those fit under that description, so I fail to see how it would be unhelpful.

FWIW, I have a 10oz dormeuil tonik (wool/mohair)blend, and it wears fine in the summer. But again, it depends on how hot you run, which varies from person to person. Some people can do 12 oz fine in summer, and some can only do 8.
post #16312 of 19908
^ It is totally unhelpful because I'm asking about bespeaking a suit in a summer weight fabric for New York City. All of those suits are 11/12 ounce wool ready to wear suits. no one would dream of bespeaking an 11/12 ounce wool suit for that purpose. It would be absurd. and half of the suits in that thread are lined.
post #16313 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

 no one would dream of bespeaking an 11/12 ounce wool suit for that purpose. It would be absurd.

This is false.

post #16314 of 19908
Lol dude, I don't know what to tell you. For one, the "nobody would ever" bit is comically nonsensical. For another, it seems your initial holy grail (a 100% totally unlined wool) isn't gonna happen, unless you don't give the slightest of shites for durability.

I guess I'll apologize for trying to provide insight on eidos while staying within the parameters of your initial constraints lol.

If you kept yourself open, I, like everyone else here thus far, would recommend a blend of some sort for the purpose you seek.
Edited by ericgereghty - 1/17/16 at 8:24pm
post #16315 of 19908
@agjiffy stop being a dick, especially when people have taken the time to respond with advice.
post #16316 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

Lol dude, I don't know what to tell you. For one, the "nobody would ever" bit is comically nonsensical. For another, it seems your initial holy grail (a 100% totally unlined wool) isn't gonna happen, unless you don't give the slightest of shites for durability.

I guess I'll apologize for trying to provide insight on eidos while staying within the constraints of your initial constraints lol.

If you kept yourself open, I, like everyone else here thus far, would recommend a blend of some sort for the purpose you seek.

An eidos blend?
post #16317 of 19908
No, a fabric blend.
post #16318 of 19908
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

No, a fabric blend.

Yes, that of course is an option and I know it well. but I'm asking about pure wool, non fresco. Lightweight for New York City in the summer, particularly 7, 8, 9 ounces. I think Dopey's sufficiently answered the question though.
post #16319 of 19908

So, moving forward, and with a sincere desire to be helpful -

 

I have a couple of suits in wool/linen/silk blend (mostly 70/15/15 but the proportions can vary). Canali make a lot of these, and all their fabric is from Loro Piana (or so I'm told), so you could start with LP's books.

 

I also have a Brunello Cucinelli in the above blend, very lightweight, buggy-lined. I was wearing it today in Melbourne's 37 degree (C) heat and I didn't break a sweat. Here are some pics showing that suit's fabric and construction:

 

 

 

(nb it's fully canvassed behind the lining, and weirdly, some sections of the front panels seem to have a very thin fusing applied to them also.)


In my experience, this type of cloth blend breathes well, and the linen content is low enough that creasing problems are minimal. Yet they hold a pressed crease well. For my money it's an ideal summer suiting cloth.

 

Finally, I have a new project under way with a "secret" tailor (who will be named in due course - if things go well) in a Draper wool/linen/silk blend, again specifically for summer use. So I'm putting my money where my mouth is.

post #16320 of 19908

Good thoughts @Coxsackie 

 

 @agjiffy I have some lighter weights (8-10.5 oz) in various English wools, some Fresco, some not, and FWIW, what I feel I've gained from a lightweight wool in Summer wear-ability  -  unlined, or not  -   hasn't adequately compensated for what I've lost in drape and durability.   Fresco drapes best of the lighter weights in my limited experience.

 

If I was a suit-wearing door-to-door salesman I might go as low as 8 oz again, but slouching from A/C car to A/C building and back doesn't warrant < 10 - 11 oz, even on super-hot days.    I'm really happy with ~13 oz year round. 

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