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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1086

post #16276 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Hi fabric aficionados. 

I'm trying to choose a fabric for my next suit. I'm expecting to sink some serious money into the tailoring; would like the fabric to stand up to time.

Requirements:
1) Business-appropriate. I am a mid level associate at a law firm. I am often in court and in meetings with bigwig businesspeople.

2) The goal of the suit is to be understated. I'm usually the junior person in the room, so I'm not really trying to garner extra attention. 

3) I already have a lot of conservative fabrics: solid worsted charcoal, solid worsted navy, medium grey pick and pick, light grey flannel, navy pinstripe, charcoal (almost black) pinstripe. I was thinking navy nailhead or grey nailhead. Also considering navy pick& pick. 

My tailor gets deals on VBC and Scabal cloth. I think he also uses British Woolens as a supplier.  Please let me know if you have any suggestions from any of these. 

If anyone has any high-performance CBD cloth (boring solids, nailheads, pick and picks) that they want to unload, please PM me. 

Go ahead. Treat yourself. Lesser Golden Bale icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #16277 of 19896
Thanks for all the comments so quickly, everyone. This post got long, since I have insomnia. I've spoiler'd it to be polite.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

@gs77

I love POW. If it was more muted it would be fine for client meetings. I wouldn't wear it to court, though. 

Something like either of the following cloths I think it would be good for meetings, terms of formality.

Scabal POW (Click to show)

Scabal 703915 9.8 oz

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

 

 

Scabal 752781 9.8oz

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTRC View Post
 

@scatterbrain - navy birdseye? navy pindot ( absolutely beautiful and looks solid from a few feet)? Navy Hopsack? You could also get a plaid like POW etc but make it subtle.

 

Grey nailhead is also very nice.

 

I forgot to mention - I have a Scabal 120s navy pindot jacket that was made for me as a blazer. This weekend I am meeting my tailor to have tweaks made to the jacket and to get measured for pants to turn this into a blazersuit. Grey nailhead would be in the running.

Blazersuit (Click to show)

slightly darker than this in real life, but this tone/texture.

 

@Isolation

My navy worsted is a pretty dark navy. Navy birdseye would be really nice, and I could wear it to court. That would probably become my staple navy suit when the worsted wears out (which will be soon; it's getting shiny). 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post


Go ahead. Treat yourself. Lesser Golden Bale icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

@RogerC

It's funny that you mention Golden Bale. I was looking at golden bale on B&S a couple of days ago.

 

Here are the B&S options I'm considering. If anybody has good/bad experiences with the cloths below, please let me know.

 

1.  Golden Bale Flannel for $600 US for sale by @borbor.

+looks totally badass

+seller lives in the same city, so I won't get hit with shipping charges and customs fees (which could be up to 18% on anything I buy from the US).

- not as understated as I'd like

- expenive (even if it's a good deal). I'm still dialling in the fit of my suits with this tailor, and don't know if I should give him $850CDN fabric to work with yet.

- I run hot and I assume a heavy flannel might make me sweat

 

This mid-grey golden bale for $350 US that @lordsuperb has up in B&S is pretty tempting:

+ Looks rich

+ Could wear anywhere, including court.

- Might get hit with duties of around $100.

- will have to pay shipping

- Fabric is pretty close to another grey suit I have.

 

There's also this Smith Woollens worsted grey hopsack 10/11 oz., by , which I could get 4.5M of for the same price as the grey golden bale above.

+Get 4.5M for the price of 3.5. Could make a 3-piece.

+ I assume that hopsack means this will be more breathable, and I run hot.

- might get hit with ~$100 in duties.

- will have to pay shipping

- not as dark means it's less court-appropriate.

Apparently this is Pre-harrisons Smith Woolens. I'm not sure if  that's a good thing or a bad thing.

 

 

If anybody has blue options that you've been meaning to list in B&S, please hit me up. If I buy fabric through SF, it'll be in the next couple of weeks.


Edited by scatterbrain - 1/13/16 at 3:23am
post #16278 of 19896
Just - and finally - received two lengths of LL cloth: the navy blue PoW Brisa, and the Everest cashmere. Both are really gorgeous…

post #16279 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

I'm picking up my first Piuma suit in a couple of weeks. Will report back.
Thank you.
post #16280 of 19896

Anyone with an idea of approximately how much fabric is needed for a pea coat?

post #16281 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melchiades View Post

Anyone with an idea of approximately how much fabric is needed for a pea coat?

It obviously depends on the length you want, but my tailor assured me that 2,5 meters would suffice for an above the knee version.
post #16282 of 19896
Cut lengths of Minnis Fresco 15oz just posted up in B&S if anyone is interested:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/516071/minnis-fresco-15oz-3-5m-cut-lengths-in-gray-and-navy/0_50

post #16283 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC View Post

Cut lengths of Minnis Fresco 15oz just posted up in B&S if anyone is interested:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/516071/minnis-fresco-15oz-3-5m-cut-lengths-in-gray-and-navy/0_50

 

I assume that this would drape nicely because of the weight, but not be too hot because of the weave, correct? Is it see-through?

post #16284 of 19896
15oz sounds mad heavy for fresco, regardless of how porous it is.
post #16285 of 19896
Seems strange that fresco would even be made in 15oz weight.
post #16286 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Seems strange that fresco would even be made in 15oz weight.

I guess you could just want the fresco texture and not care about the breathability....
post #16287 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post


I guess you could just want the fresco texture and not care about the breathability....

Isn't the point of Fresco its breathability?

post #16288 of 19896
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Isn't the point of Fresco its breathability?

Yes a lot of people in this thread have been critical of the heavier fresco for years. I have the three ply fresco and I don't think it's bad.
post #16289 of 19896

I think some people like the heavier fresco for the wrinkle resistance and hardwearingness, i.e. good for travel.

post #16290 of 19896

If it was still available I would have been tempted by the texture/durability/bounce back factors.  That stuff'd be bomb proof. 

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